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Kai Lenny: The World's Most Versatile Surfer On Adventure, Risk, & Turning Fear Into Fuel
The Rich Roll Podcast
The Different Approaches to Surfing: Old School Grit vs Goofy Fun
Old school surfers had a serious and intense approach to surfing, with a strong focus on self-preservation and the potential dangers of the ocean./nModern surfers have a more lighthearted and fun-loving approach to surfing, enjoying the thrill of catching waves and being in the moment./nSurfers have a distinct transformation when they are about to catch a wave, shifting from goofing around to a focused and determined mindset./nCommitting to a wave in surfing is similar to making a risky decision in traffic – once you commit, there's no turning back./nSurfers need to balance a healthy appreciation for the potential consequences of surfing with the desire to push their limits and ride the edge./nWhen surfers commit to catching a wave, they do so with full dedication and without hesitation.
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