The History of Macaroni and Cheese: From James Hemings to TikTok

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The origins of macaroni and cheese are attributed to James Hemings, an American-born chef who was trained in France and born into slavery, purchased by Thomas Jefferson. Hemings introduced ice cream and french fries to America and is credited with bringing macaroni and cheese to the country. James Hemings died tragically at the age of 36 by suicide after being freed by Jefferson, under the condition of training his replacement. In a Netflix series based on the book 'High on the Hog,' Hemings' descendant and a culinary historian cook his famous macaroni pie, revealing a velvety texture achieved by boiling noodles in a mixture of milk and water. Traditional macaroni and cheese enthusiasts find craft versions lacking, valuing the creamy texture and cheese combination. Some discover innovative mac and cheese recipes on TikTok, always eager to explore new cooking methods.

What’s the difference between Southern cooking and “soul food?” Is there a correct type of mac and cheese? And whose business is it what you eat? (Hint: no one’s). Culinary historian, scholar of African American life and culture critic Dr. Psyche Williams-Forson is a professor at University of Maryland College Park and department chair in the Department of American Studies. She also authored the books “Eating While Black: Food Shaming and Race in America” and “Building Houses out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, and Power.” We chat about everything from oral traditions to “soul food” in popular culture, gendered roles in cooking, hyperlocal produce, systemic oppression and why someone would make chicken without seasoning it. On national television.

Visit Dr. Psyche Williams-Torson’s website and follow her on Instagram and Twitter

Buy Dr. Williams-Torson’s books: Eating While Black: Food Shaming and Race in America and Building Houses out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, and Power

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