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TBP 257: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Importance of Finger Training for Climbers
Finger training is crucial for building hand resilience in climbers. However, the loads and intensity of finger training in climbers exceed what is necessary for optimal performance. A study compared the movement economy and forces on hands between two climbers during a power move, revealing that only 45-35% of body weight was needed for the catch. This shows that climbers often train with excessive loads that surpass the actual requirements for climbing moves.
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