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The Struggle Climbing Show cover image

Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades

The Struggle Climbing Show

NOTE

Measuring Finger Strength and Shoulder Strength in Climbing

The speaker discusses the importance of not making big statements about the most important aspects of climbing. They reflect on how to measure finger strength and explain that while they thought finger strength was crucial at 15 years old, they would actually be weak when measured by standard methods. They attribute success in climbing more to shoulder strength than finger strength and highlight the importance of shoulder flexibility. The speaker notes that one-arm hanging is not commonly required in outdoor climbing, unlike in gym or modern bouldering styles.

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