Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades
Jan 31, 2024
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Elite climber Adam Ondra shares struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Topics discussed include finger strength, training tools, breaking through difficulties, reevaluating historical climb grades, and admiration for a climbing legend.
Embracing struggles can lead to breakthroughs and accomplishments in climbing.
Board climbing is beneficial for improving finger strength and overall climbing performance.
Tactics for projecting routes include analyzing beta, finding rest positions, and taking calculated risks.
Deep dives
Importance of Struggle in Climbing
Struggle plays a vital role in climbing, pushing climbers to their limits and motivating them to improve. It is seen as an opportunity for growth and a necessary step towards success. Whether it's dealing with personal challenges or facing difficult routes, embracing and navigating the struggles can lead to breakthroughs and accomplishments.
Training Insights: Board Climbing and Finger Strength
Adam Andra highlights the benefits of board climbing for training, particularly in improving finger strength and overall climbing performance. He emphasizes the importance of finding the right balance between technique and power when training on boards. Adam also discusses the significance of variety in training and the use of measures like one-arm deadhangs as personal references.
Tactics for Projecting Routes
Adam Andra shares tactics for projecting routes, focusing on the importance of analyzing beta, finding rest positions, and adjusting pacing. He highlights the value of continuously searching for alternative beta and maximizing rest periods to optimize performance. Adam also emphasizes the significance of mental preparation and taking calculated risks to achieve success on challenging projects.
Mental Game and Fear of Failure
Adam Andra discusses the mental challenges in climbing, specifically regarding fear of failure. He acknowledges the pressure climbers face and emphasizes the importance of building confidence through preparation and positive self-talk. Adam suggests finding a routine that helps boost confidence and mentally transitioning into 'go mode' when necessary. He also mentions the similarities in dealing with pressure in competition and challenging projects.
Approach to Climbing Routes
Adam discusses two different approaches to climbing routes. One approach is to meticulously plan and dial in the route, waiting for perfect conditions before attempting it. The other approach is to stay in the area, climb on something enjoyable, and only attempt the route when the conditions are right. Adam highlights the simplicity and accessibility of the route Perfecto Mundo, emphasizing that it only takes a few tries to master the moves.
Fear of Falling and Free Soloing
Adam explains that he avoids unnecessary risks, which is why he hasn't taken up free soloing. He acknowledges that some of the routes he has climbed are objectively dangerous, but compares them to free soloing, where every second presents a fatal danger. He expresses a preference for sport climbing and trad climbing, particularly enjoying challenging trad climbs where falls may be long but the gear placements are good. He also discusses the role of fear in climbing and how it differs depending on the style and difficulty of the route.
Elite climber Adam Ondra shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game
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Adam has 18 World Cup Gold medals,, is one of the best boulderers in the world with four V16 or 8C+ and 17 8C or V15 to his name. On sport, Adam has flashed up to 9a+ or 5.15a with Super Crackinette, he was the first to redpoint 5.15c or 9b+ with Change in Flatanger, and then again with the first ascent of La Dura Dura in Oliana, and he was the first to establish the hardest grade in the world at this time with Silence in Flatanger, 9c, or 5.15d… a 4 year project that has yet to see a repeat. Adam has sent more than 200 routes that are 9a or harder. One can pick up a lot of knowledge through that level of experience… and lucky for us, he’s ready to drop that knowledge on us here today.
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. VisitCrimpd to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.
ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score 10% off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE at checkout.
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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