Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades

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Jan 31, 2024

Elite climber Adam Ondra shares struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Topics discussed include finger strength, training tools, breaking through difficulties, reevaluating historical climb grades, and admiration for a climbing legend.

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ANECDOTE

Second Place Motivation

Adam Ondra was grateful for coming second in his first World Championship at 16 years old.
This motivated him to train harder, ultimately winning the title in 2014 under Patxi Usobiaga's coaching.

INSIGHT

Technique Over Power

Adam Ondra prioritized movement, technique, and flow in his climbing.
He believes physical power is important but often overemphasized.

INSIGHT

Finger Strength Nuance

Adam Ondra believes finger strength is important but not easily measured by conventional methods like dead hangs.
He emphasizes the importance of applying strength on the wall, noting he was relatively weak at dead hangs even at his peak.

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Elite climber Adam Ondra shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game

Adam has 18 World Cup Gold medals,, is one of the best boulderers in the world with four V16 or 8C+ and 17 8C or V15 to his name. On sport, Adam has flashed up to 9a+ or 5.15a with Super Crackinette, he was the first to redpoint 5.15c or 9b+ with Change in Flatanger, and then again with the first ascent of La Dura Dura in Oliana, and he was the first to establish the hardest grade in the world at this time with Silence in Flatanger, 9c, or 5.15d… a 4 year project that has yet to see a repeat. Adam has sent more than 200 routes that are 9a or harder. One can pick up a lot of knowledge through that level of experience… and lucky for us, he’s ready to drop that knowledge on us here today.

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CHAPTERS:

Struggle: 0:11:18
Training: 0:16:00
Nutrition: 0:27:58
Tactics: 0:37:23
Mental Game: 0:50:40
Purpose: 1:07:28

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.