The Power of Style and Agency

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Black men have transformed the European suit with traditional African elements like color and swag to defy their material conditions, marking a form of rebellion termed dapper agitation. Despite formal wear traditionally symbolizing conformity, these Black Dandies, particularly the Saphors, have authentically embraced the European suit in a way that others now emulate their style.

Hailing from central African cities of Brazzaville and Kinshasa, sapeurs have become increasingly recognizable around the world. Since the 1970s, sapeurs (from: le sape, short for "Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes") have been known for donning technicolored three-piece suits with flamboyant accessories like golden walking sticks and leopard-print fedoras, and then cat-walking through their city streets.

In recent years, Solange, Kendrick and SZA have all featured sapeurs in their music videos. The iconic British menswear designer Paul Smith did a whole spring line of sapeur-inspired suits and bowler hats.

The Society of Ambiance Makers and Elegant Persons