TBP 257: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Rest and Recovery for Injury Prevention
Taking a couple of weeks off after an injury is beneficial as it allows muscles to decondition slightly, leading to increased power output without losing strength. For well-trained individuals, taking time off is acceptable as they can regain strength quickly. However, prolonged rest can decondition fingers significantly, impacting climbing ability. The key is to balance rest with maintaining muscle capacity to ensure a swift return to physical activities.
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