Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud

Graydon Carter is a celebrated Canadian journalist, editor, and cultural commentator best known for his 25 years as the Editor of Vanity Fair. Born in Toronto, Graydon Carter began his career in journalism in Canada where he co-founded Spy magazine in 1986. The satirical monthly became famous for its sharp, irreverent take on media, politics, and celebrity culture, establishing him as a critical voice in American media. In 1992, Graydon Carter became the editor at Vanity Fair, transforming the magazine into a powerhouse of long-form journalism, celebrity profiles, and cultural commentary. Under his leadership Vanity Fair became known for its investigative reporting - breaking a number of key political scandals; also the much anticipated photographic spreads and covers featuring Hollywood stars, shot by the legendary photographer Annie Liebovitz. Graydon Carter stepped down from Vanity Fair in 2017, founding Air Mail, a digital weekly aimed at worldly readers interested in culture, politics, and style. With his signature wit and curatorial flair, he has published his memoir 'When The Going Was Good' with author James Fox. In this episode of Fashion Neurosis, Bella Freud and Graydon Carter discuss the joys of ironing, creating desirable trinkets for people to 'take home' from the Vanity Fair party, and whether it was Aerosmith's Steve Tyler, or Kate Moss who actually said 'nothing tastes like skinny feels.' Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Bethann Hardison, a trailblazer in fashion and activism, reminisces about her groundbreaking career as one of the first Black models. She discusses her role in the 'Battle of Versailles' show and the formation of the Black Girls Coalition with Iman, aiming for equitable representation in fashion. Hardison reflects on her early shoots with Bruce Weber and shares insights on advocating for diversity within Brides Magazine. Her journey unveils the complexities of identity, cultural heritage, and the ongoing fight for inclusion in the fashion industry.

Sam McKnight, a legendary hairstylist with a 50-year career, shares his journey from a Scottish mining town to the pinnacle of fashion. He discusses the transformative power of hair, drawing connections to personal identity and self-acceptance. The conversation dives into memorable experiences with iconic figures, like Princess Diana's life-changing haircut. McKnight also reflects on the chaotic yet collaborative nature of fashion shows and the importance of innovation and growth in both life and career, proving style can evolve beautifully at any age.

Marina Abramović, the legendary performance artist known for her extreme endurance and direct audience engagement, shares her creative journey. She dives into the ideas that happiness doesn't foster great art and the necessity of climax in performances. The conversation touches on confronting shame through art and how transformative experiences shape identity. Abramović also humorously recalls a peculiar collaboration involving 400 live rats, showcasing her commitment to pushing artistic boundaries. Her reflections illuminate the deep connection between personal sacrifice and creative expression.

Es Devlin is a British artist and stage designer celebrated for creating large-scale, emotionally resonant installations and performances that fuse light, music, language, and space. Her work has shaped the visual identity of global tours for artists including Beyoncé, Adele, The Weeknd and U2, while also redefining the theatrical landscape through her work with the Royal Opera House, National Theatre, and the Metropolitan Opera. Es Devlin brings a poetic sensibility to her immersive environments. Her public art installations—such as Forest for Change at Somerset House and Poem Pavilion at Expo 2020 Dubai—invite audiences to reflect, explore, and engage with urgent global themes. In October 2024 she unveiled CONGREGATION, a large-scale choral installation created in partnership with UK for UNHCR, The Courtauld and King's College London.  Es Devlin’s designs have been exhibited at major institutions including the V&A, the Serpentine Gallery, and the Venice Biennale. She is a Royal Academician, the recipient of numerous awards, and was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for services to stage design. In this episode of Fashion Neurosis, Bella Freud and Es Devlin discuss the logistics of raising a steel orb out of the sand in the Moroccan desert for the St Laurent menswear show; seeking out jumble sales in Time Out magazine when she was 11; and making a collage for her bedroom from a catalogue of Japanese art that turned out to be full of pornographic illustrations. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Hanif Kureishi, a celebrated British author and screenwriter, shares his journey navigating identity and creativity after a life-changing accident that left him temporarily paralyzed. He reflects on how trauma shaped his writing and self-image, exploring the dynamic relationship between clothing and attraction. Kureishi's fascinating tales from the punk scene and his personal evolution highlight the impact of fashion on identity. He also discusses the role of therapy in enhancing creativity, revealing insights gained through personal struggles and the collaborative spirit of creative gatherings.

Susie Cave, the British model and designer behind The Vampire's Wife, shares her captivating journey from being scouted at just 14 to launching her gothic-romantic fashion brand. She reminisces about her first encounter with Nick Cave and the emotional weight of personal style, revealing how cherished outfits reflect deep memories. The conversation also delves into how creativity can serve as a powerful outlet for grief, demonstrating the transformative effects of art and the bonds formed through shared fashion experiences.

Bobby Gillespie, the lead vocalist of Primal Scream and author of 'Tenement Kid', shares his fascinating journey from a Glasgow childhood marred by violence to rock stardom. He reflects on the powerful influence of punk music in shaping his identity and style, leading him from drummer to frontman. A pink jacket becomes a symbol of resilience after a life-altering accident. The discussion also touches on his experiences with addiction, recovery, and the role of fashion in music, highlighting how personal choices intertwine with artistic expression.

Christian Louboutin, the acclaimed French shoe designer behind the iconic red soles, shares captivating insights into his journey from childhood in Paris to global fashion icon. He discusses the creative process behind his signature footwear, influenced by pop art and personal experiences. Louboutin delves into the emotional significance of shoes, touching on how they shape identity and perception. The conversation also highlights his collaboration with David Lynch and the importance of choosing optimism amid life's challenges.

John Cooper Clarke is a British poet. He rose to fame during the Punk era, touring and performing with bands across the UK in the 70's. He has collaborated with some of the most revered artists of our time including the renowned Reggae poet and musician Linton Kwesi Johnson. His distinctive appearance has remained unchanged since he first exploded on the literary scene: long, jet black hair, a newsboy cap, and black sunglasses worn at all times -  paired with impeccable, skinny tailoring. John Cooper Clarke has transcended many hurdles in his life including heroin addiction, which he describes in his fascinating and upbeat memoir, ‘I Wanna Be Yours’. In this episode of Fashion Neurosis, John Cooper Clarke and Bella Freud discuss their shared early influences from comic books; his relationship with the timeless fashion muse Nico; and why he still refers to James Brown for inspiration on how to look good.   Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices