The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injuries in climbers and how that’s affected his protocols for healing them. We did another interview about fingers a long time ago in Episode 116, but this is an update to that information and a deeper dive into it. Jared’s book Climb Injury-Free is on its seventh print run and is back in stock (finally). Order his book here. This interview is super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on finger injuries, so I hope it helps you out if you have a finger injury now or if you have in the past. More Details 40% of climbing injuries are fingers! Most common finger injuries and how they happen Pulleys vs tendons explained How to diagnose finger injuries How new research has affected his protocols What the popping sound is during an injury How long recovery takes Two ways to approach pulley sprains Medications and devices to use to heal What side-to-side pain means Protocol timelines Long-standing finger injuries Using hangboard for recovery   Other Interviews with Dr. Vagy Interview #1: We talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them. Interview #2: He talked about how to heal shoulder impingement. Interview #3: We talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain. Interview #4: We discussed finger pulley sprains. Interview #5: We discussed elbow injuries. Interview # 6: We talked about hip injuries.   Jared Vagy Professional Credentials Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.   Supporting Videos from Episode Video describing pulley injury anatomy, biomechanics and research https://youtu.be/YU2-K4NFXnk Video describing pulley diagnostic classifications and rehab https://youtu.be/SFqAbKRYwgw Diagnosis and classification https://www.pinterest.com/pin/578853358356324847/ Return to climbing and hanging timelines https://www.pinterest.com/pin/578853358366092458/     Rock Rehab Protocol Links Dr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab. Inside Elbow Pain Outside Elbow Pain Finger Pulley Sprain Shoulder Impingement Rotator Cuff Strain Neck Strain   Dr. Jared Vagy Links Jared’s book, Climb Injury Free Website: www.theclimbingdoctor.com Instagram: @theclimbingdoctor

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger’s 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training program built just for you. You’ll be getting to know a small group of no more than 12 people, talking with them every week. You’ll get a lot of one-on-one time with Alex, and you’ll also get everything below… More one-on-one time – 2.5 hours instead of 1.75 hours over the 6 weeks (that’s more one-on-one time than any other coaching option) Team zoom meetings every week that will be recorded – get climbing video analyzed, ask questions, go over specific topics Completely individualized 6-week training program for just you Intensive 6-week online course – video tutorials, deep dives into important training and mental topics to help you improve quickly Anytime Q&A via individual messaging or group chat Weekly feedback on climbing and training videos you take during the course Direction on how to continue with your training after the course Full access to Alex’s past workshops during the program (Hangboarding, TRX, Rings, and Skills & Drills Workshops) Learn and grow with a team! This is an underrated way of reaching your potential. Teammates can be the difference between you doing the work and you keeping the status quo. Early bird pricing lasts until the 13th, so if you want to get this at the best price, go get your spot now. LEARN MORE ABOUT THE SKILLS & DRILLS WORKSHOP   Coach Alex Stiger’s Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she’s training to prepare to send her first 5.14a this summer/fall. This is a rare exploration of an experienced coach/climber’s process around building their own training program. Alex has asked for the help of a couple trainers, a PT, and she’s doing work on her mental game as well in order to achieve this big goal. She’s taken everything she knows about training to build out an objective plan for herself for 8 weeks before she begins going to her project. We talk about how she assessed her strengths and weaknesses in order to prioritize what she’s doing to train. We talk about how she’s cultivating a beginner’s mindset, why she incorporated running into her program, and how she uses journaling and video of herself climbing to take a more objective view of things. She also shares her schedule from Monday to Sunday every day so you can see exactly what she’s doing. This program is specifically built for Alex, and you should not copy it. But we go through how she KNEW what was appropriate for her, and you can take that knowledge to help build your own program.   Episode Details Why this climb is so important for her, and why she’s ok with walking away empty-handed Why chilling and doing what she wants has been an important part of this training How she uses journaling, tracking, and vieo analysis How she assessed her strengths and weaknesses to build her program Importance of guidance on training, even for a coach Why she used to hate assessments and why she loves them now Her Monday through Sunday training schedule for 8 weeks before the season How/if she’ll train while she’s trying to send How to use video analysis in your own training   Show Links Join Alex’s 6-Week Team Training Program Work with Alex as your coach Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Photo Credit Photo of Alex competing in the Cookie Jar Competition at Movement Boulder by Michael Emery Hecker @sayless.meanmore   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you can hardly get off the ground on your warm-ups. Whether you have a training program written by another coach or by yourself, Matt goes over some alternative plans for limit bouldering sessions, strength sessions (outside of climbing), and volume/endurance sessions. You don’t have to scrap the whole session (unless you really need to do that). You can make the most out of a crappy day by lowering intensity or working on skills, for instance. We go over it in detail so you can easily make a plan B next time this happens to you.   Episode Details Why it’s normal for not every session to feel great Acceptable choices for what to do instead Limit bouldering alternatives Strength training alternatives Volume climbing alternatives Why an endurance session may not be a good alternative to limit bouldering Why you feel bad some days, and how to avoid it more Figuring out the “why” of your session to make a plan B How to practice skill instead of strength Why it’s a mistake to blow off strength sessions Why doing even 60% of max efforts helps gain strength   Show Links Do an hour coaching session with Matt Work with Matt as your coach Do Matt’s Bouldering Training Program Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Train with Matt Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app. You’ll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below. TRAIN WITH MATT     Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50’s who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Centers in Virginia. She began climbing when she was 30 years old and soon realized it was what she wanted to spend her life doing and teaching, so she quickly moved up the ranks at her gym, landing in the role of president. In the past 17 years, she’s worked tirelessly to make Sportrock an inclusive, high quality climbing gym where her employees and gym members can thrive. A few years ago, Lillian realized that she’d sent 43 5.13’s, so she resolved to climb 50 5.13’s by the time she was 50 years old. In this interview she describes how she was able to surpass that goal, and what she has learned through her years of climbing and running a large climbing gym. Her mindset with climbing–and life in general–is applaudable and her devotion to personal growth is calculated and inspirational. In this talk we discussed the mental and physical tactics she used to send her first 5.13d at the age of 49 and to reach her goal of 50 5.13’s by 50, her mnemonic strategies she uses in her everyday life to learn and grow, and how the pandemic has affected her and her businesses. Basically, Lillian bestows upon us the wisdom she’s meticulously cultivated through the years, and I’m so happy I was able to have this talk with her 🙂   Lillian Chao-Quinlan Interview Details How her former career as a teacher has transferred to her job as president of Sportrock The result of her goal to send 50 5.13’s by the age of 50 “Do one thing well, do all things well,” a life motto from her mother How running a company of over 200 people gives you perspective on clibming Questions she asks herself before and during hard climbs Her “why” for climbing and how it’s evolved over the years “Every day is a bonus day for all of us” wisdom from her father REACH – Her mnemonic for self-growth everyday How to continue to make Sportrock excellent in industry and not fall into a competitive mindset The pivotal moment in her life when a teacher told her she was not smart Her perspective on age in climbing, and her climbing goals going forward   Show Links Instagram for Sportrock @sportrock Sportrock website: Sportrock.com Video on her being president of Sportrock and her upbringing as a 1st generation Taiwanese American Article about Lillian Rock & Ice Article about Lillian doing 50 5.13’s by age of 50   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old. I wanted to talk with Keenan because–let’s be honest–I love his moustachio… and because I wanted to understand what sets him apart from other climbers. He’s climbed all over the world, he’s in countless videos (just google his name), and he clearly tries VERY HARD to excel at this sport. He’s intense and light-hearted all at the same time. He’s confident and humble at the same time, and I admire all of those qualities very much. I was honored to have a Skype sit-down with him from his van in Yosemite. We talked about his journey in climbing and what sets him apart as a climber, which he thinks is his obsessive personality. Honestly, I’ve never thought that being obsessive was a positive quality, but after talking to him I kind of want to cultivate more of it in my climbing life. His pursuits of progression and perfection in bouldering have led to an illustrious resume so far, and the fact that he JUST started training a couple months ago makes me think that maybe he’s just getting started. I walked away from this interview feeling soothed and inspired all at once. He’s well-spoken and self-aware, which always makes for an excellent discussion, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.   Keenan Takahashi Interview Details How he developed as a climber How progression is the thing that drives him in all his pursuits How skateboarding and bouldering are similar How his obsessive nature has helped him Why climbing keeps him awake at night How visualizing climbs makes him climb better What “good tactics” are to him What sets him apart from other climbers How much to rest between burns Whether his body/recovery has changed since he was 17 Training now – his protocol and results he’s seeing Plans after being a pro climber   Show Links Instagram @keenantakahashi Work on your nutrition with me   Photo Photo of Keenan in Bishop by @ktlambies   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients’ and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning. This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much I’ve been missing in my climbing training all these years. There’s SO MUCH more I could’ve been doing this whole time to make improvements where hangboarding or other strength training just can’t help. We go over in depth how Alex first analyzes her clients’ technique, skills, overall usage of their bodies, and tactics. She describes how she quantifies everything to make it less nebulous and more objective, and then creates drills to see objective improvements going forward. We then talk about 7 experiences Alex has had while climbing outside that have led her to change her tactics, improve her skills, and be able to practice all of it further in the gym and outdoors. I really hope you listen to this because whether you’re a 5.8 or a 5.14 climber, you will likely learn something and maybe even be inspired like I am to start incorporating this stuff into your own routines.   Episode Details How training actually held her back from climbing well in the beginning Her repeating climbs until they feel “good” has helped her How Alex assesses skills and technique in clients Key things to focus on with your feet, hips, arms, and hands Why practicing basics is so important How much of your climbing should be spent trying hard vs. gaining mastery How climbing in Font drastically improved her footwork and overall climbing ability How resting less can help you send hard routes How she gets herself to climb faster while still having good technique How being injured has actually expanded her skill set How to cultivate using momentum instead of raw strength/power   Show Links Do Alex’s Workshop on Skill Building Work with Alex as your coach Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX   Goal Setting in Climbing In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we approach goal setting for ourselves and for our clients. Goal setting can be overwhelming and it’s easy to get lost in the details while overlooking the big picture (and vice versa). We go over our personal goal setting strategies, how fear of failing can affect people in their goal-setting, things to consider when you’re setting goals for a climbing trip, and how to stay grounded in our OWN goals without comparing ourselves too much with the person who’s warming up on our project.   Episode Details What we’ve all been focusing on in our lives lately How we all approach goal setting for ourselves How fear of failing can affect goal setting, and what to do about it Removing the pressure of time from goals The question Alex always asks her clients after they tell her their goal Whether or not you have to have a goal Whether or not you need to have a solid pyramid before progressing to the next grade Trip goal-setting examples Alex’s tips to stay grounded when she starts comparing herself to others Having goals for each session, and the importance of fall-back goals   Show Links Do an hour coaching session with Matt Work with Matt as your coach Work with Alex as your coach Work with Neely as your nutritionist Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com, alex@trainingbeta.com, or neely@trainingbeta.com       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Where to start about Bobbi Bensman?? Bobbi has been climbing since 1980 and was basically the Alex Puccio of her time. She was a professional climber for 21 years until she transitioned to a full-time job as a sales rep for outdoor companies and became a mother to two daughters. In her time as a pro climber, she helped forge the way for strong female climbing by doing one of the first 5.14a female ascents, which was quickly downgraded after her send. We talk about how controversial that – and other – downgrades of hers were and how she dealt with that at the time. We talk about how her climbing and training have changed – if at all – as she’s gotten older, and how becoming a parent changed her climbing and lifestyle. Bobbi has an unquenchable thirst for climbing and has never stopped being motivated by her goals. She does whatever it takes to follow her passions and she’ll tell you all about that in the interview. I’ve gotten a lot of requests recently for interviews with older climbers, so I hope this is helpful to hear how Bobbi is still sending basically just as hard now as she did 30 years ago.   Bobbi Bensman Interview Details Most notable ascents Sexism in climbing Climbing 5.14 and having it immediately downgraded Why she resisted doing this interview How she improved at climbing with no indoor gyms in the beginning 216 5.13’s in her life so far How her training has evolved over the years How motherhood changed her lifestyle How full-time job changed her life and climbing How she can tell that age is a factor now Her goals for this year (and every year)   Show Links Instagram @bobbibensman Work on your nutrition with me   Photo Photo of Bobbi on Helicopter V6 by  @dog_man_van   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Elyn Lytton is a 68-year-old climber from Colorado who started climbing in her early 50’s and is still regularly crushing 5.12’s (indoors and on toprope). She is also my mother-in-law and I’m constantly impressed by her. She’s a really good example of a person who does things in the name of sustainability, meaning, she LOVES climbing and will do whatever it takes to be able to do it for many more years. In this conversation, we discuss her approach to climbing and what she does to make it work for her body (with the aches and pains that come with age). We also talk about how she started lifting heavy weights in the past couple years in order to improve her bone density, and how that’s working out for her. Elyn has had setbacks with chronic migraines and arthritis/hand pain in the past, and we talk about how she’s tackled those things successfully through diet so that she can climb several days a week pretty much as hard as she wants now. Something that’s always struck me about Elyn is her ability to bend “norms” and just do what’s right for her. For example, she only top ropes and she never climbs outside. She doesn’t have any desire to do either of those things, but she loves climbing and gets a great workout all the same, and she encourages her climbing partners to take care of themselves in the way that she does, too. We talk about how people put pressure on each other (and themselves) to do more, more, more with climbing, but how sometimes that’s not best for everyone for physical and mental reasons. I’ve gotten a lot of requests recently for interviews with older climbers, so I hope this is helpful to hear how Elyn makes climbing work for herself. But even if you are still a very young climber, there’s something to be learned from her wisdom.       Elyn Lytton Interview Details Why she started climbing in her fifties How she fit climbing into her schedule with a demanding job before she retired How she deals with osteoarthritis in her fingers How she cured chronic migraines How her diet helps her climb hard and recover well How lifting heavy weights helped her osteoporosis and her climbing How climbing has changed her life for the better         Show Links Instagram @elynlytton and @belayoptics Use our Bouldering Training Program         Photo Family selfie! From left to right: Neely Quinn, Seth Lytton, Elyn Lytton on top of a lighthouse in Florida       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on How to Navigate Training Options if You’re in a Plateau   25% Off Bouldering Program  Our Bouldering Training Program is on sale for 25% off the normal price (regularly $27/month and now $20/month) with coupon code “bouldering.” The program consists of 3 levels, depending on your training experience, and it will help you get stronger, more powerful, and have more all-day capacity. If you sign up for the program by February 2nd, you’ll be automatically entered to win a free hour-long consultation with Coach Matt. Sale Ends Friday, February 4th, 2022. USE CODE “BOULDERING” FOR 25% OFF PROGRAM     How to Navigate Climbing Training Options if You’re in a Plateau In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about navigating the overwhelming number of training options that are available to us now. Matt’s noticed that a lot of his clients come to him confused about what is the best way to train, given there are SO MANY ways to train, programs to follow, and trainers to choose from. We try to help guide you in your decisions about the who, what, and where, and to empower you to do what’s right for you at this time in your life.   Episode Details Why there’s no universal “best” training program What to do if you’re overwhelmed by choice 2 questions to ask yourself when you’re designing a training program Why there’s no substitute for climbing outside How to pick a program or a trainer The elements of a simple but effective training program How to approach WHEN to train   Show Links Get 25% off Bouldering Training Program with code “bouldering” until Feb 4th Do an hour coaching session with Matt Work with Matt as your coach Work with Neely as your nutritionist Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.