The New Garde with Alyssa Vingan

It’s been an incredibly fun year for pop music, and the same can be said about the fashion that’s come along with it. This week, Alyssa sits down with Brittany Spanos, a senior writer at Rolling Stone and pop connoisseur, to discuss how the newest names on the scene are using aesthetics strategically to brand themselves and introduce their personas to the world. The ladies touch on the biggest breakout talents of 2024, particularly Sabrina Carpenter, Addison Rae, Chappell Roan, Tate McRae, and brat-era Charli XCX, and how they all (like the pop stars who came before them) use fashion to build their identities and create their narratives. Tune in for an in-depth discussion on this and much more, including Brittany’s thoughts on the smart ways that Carpenter, Rae, and Olivia Rodrigo are subtly introducing retro pop culture references to a new generation; why Rae’s slightly weird creative direction led by Mel Ottenberg is so genius; who are the best pop star/stylist pairings in the game right now; how we’ve reached Peak Britney Spears reference over the past year and why it’s getting out of hand; why the best pop stars are embracing pastiche at a time when fans are exhausted by repetitive references; what the future might hold for pop acts designing collections with luxury fashion brands, like Harry Styles for Gucci or Dua Lipa for Versace; and what could be the next big avant-garde pop star/fashion designer partnership on the level of Lady Gaga and Alexander McQueen.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

How will people pay homage to a new generation of red carpet stars in the future if their fashion choices consistently reference the past? This week, Alyssa is joined by Emily Kirkpatrick of I <3 Mess in an attempt to tackle this question at the midpoint of the 2024-2025 awards season. Tune in to hear the ladies discuss fashion’s big problem right now in terms of moving forward; how pulling museum-caliber vintage became the ultimate sartorial flex; when a red carpet tribute turns from a sweet wink or nod into a crutch; the feedback loop between the way celebrities dress and the way media covers it; what the future of getting dressed looks like when we’re so busy rehashing the aughts and doing retro throwbacks; how young Hollywood is underestimating fashion’s ability to help a new talent establish a brand identity and make a big personal statement; why risk-averse celebrities would rather wear something safe from the archives than opt for a polarizing look that creates enough conversation to become iconic years later; why celebrities need their own breakout fashion moments early in their careers, even if they’re bad; when press junket theme dressing goes too far; and whether we’re in a drought of red carpet looks that we’ll be talking about and referencing 20 years from now. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

If you’ve ever wanted to get to know your favorite girl from the internet, then this is the episode for you! This week, Alyssa sits down with Marta Freedman — the magical mind behind Hot Girls Eating Pizza and Air Milkshake, as well as the co-founder of Dieux and Angel Therapy — to learn all about her entrepreneurship journey and the wisdom she’s picked up along the way. Tune in to hear Marta discuss what MySpace taught her about building connections by being authentic online and having that resonate with other people; how starting Hot Girls Eating Pizza to meet other young adults grieving the loss of a parent was a crash course in establishing community on social media; how she realized early on that Instagram was a tool for world-building and honed that skill; why throwing themed parties and believing in her own ideas were crucial in expressing her creativity; how she leveraged her community to work with brands; the pros and cons of moonlighting as an influencer and being able to monetize your following; the power that comes with staying true to who you are; why entrepreneurship is not for the faint of heart; how to find a work-life balance when you work for yourself; why softness is power and there’s no shame in vulnerability; the importance of staying in alignment, being guided by intuition, and being your own advocate; and why you should invest in people who invest in you. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

Another fashion month has come and gone, which means we have four-plus weeks of new collections from New York, London, Milan, and Paris to unpack. This week, Alyssa is joined by her longtime friend, colleague, and former fashion month travel buddy Tyler McCall for a delightfully unhinged recap of the Spring/Summer 2025 shows. While it was impossible to cover every high and low (Alyssa didn’t even mention Bella Hadid’s return to the runway at Saint Laurent, which is extremely out of character), the ladies touch upon the season’s biggest topics of conversation, from the Substack discourse déjà vu to the vacant Chanel job. Tune in to hear their unfiltered takes on the most effective fashion week coverage; which brands are nailing their social media and storytelling strategies; whether we’ve reached Peak Tiny Mic; why Alessandro Michele’s comeback at Valentino is so exciting; the season’s new nepo babies; why Jonathan Anderson and Miuccia Prada are still in leagues of their own; what happened to brands having a point of view; how to put together an interesting front row; runway stunts done well and those gone awry; the most FOMO-inducing moments of the month and, inversely, the most cringe; and whether it all boils down to the fact that people just want to feel something. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

The New Garde has made it to 20 episodes! To celebrate, Alyssa turns her interview questions on herself, getting candid about the decade-plus she’s spent working in fashion. Tune in to find out how she channelled her dream of becoming an MTV VJ — a gig she learned about while watching Virginia Beach hometown heroes like Missy Elliott and Pharrell on TRL — into a climb up the masthead that started around the same time “The Hills” and The Devil Wears Prada put this career path in the pop cultural spotlight. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

Casey Lewis, founder of the After School newsletter and Gen Z consumer trends expert, dives into the current revival of mall culture, revealing how TikTok is reigniting interest in classic brands like J.Crew and Abercrombie. They discuss unique shopping experiences that attract Gen Z, the excitement of recent fashionable collaborations, and the challenges legacy retailers face. Lewis also shares insights on nostalgia’s pull, dissecting how brands like Gap and Victoria’s Secret are trying to connect with younger audiences in a rapidly changing market.

What better way to celebrate the start of Milan Fashion Week than to sit down with everyone’s favorite expat, Jenny Walton! The illustrator, designer, painter, Vogue vintage columnist, and author of the popular JENNY SAIS QUOI Substack moved her entire life to Italy a couple of years ago — before she learned how to speak Italian — and is proof that being consistent, kind, and true to yourself can pay dividends, even though it comes with plenty of challenges. This week, Jenny shares how she went from making her own clothes in high school and watching Project Runway with her dad, to posting her illustrations on Instagram and turning her passions into a full-fledged career. Tune in to get inspired by Jenny’s journey and her insights on the lifelong process of honing your taste, getting disillusioned with the realities of working in a corporate fashion environment, escaping the millennial mindset that everything has to be “perfect,” collecting vintage Prada, learning that success in the industry isn’t linear, why having a distinct point of view is crucial, how she handles being an introvert with a front-facing, extroverted job, why she still freezes up when getting her photo taken, moving on when something no longer feels right, being unafraid to pivot, make mistakes, and try new things, building trust with your audience, setting boundaries, how to navigate people coming into your life and misguiding you, making new friends and finding community in your 30s, starting over after a toxic relationship, the importance of being present, and so much more. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

Rebecca Jennings, a senior correspondent at Vox covering internet culture, dives deep into the less glamorous side of being an influencer. She discusses the shift from traditional fashion journalism to influencer culture and the challenges faced by creators reliant on social media algorithms. Jennings shares insights on the fear of getting 'canceled' and the psychological toll of maintaining relatability. The conversation also touches on the emergence of niche influencers and the impact of consumer expectations on authenticity.

New York Fashion Week is upon us! To kick off the Spring 2025 season, Alyssa sits down with one of the city’s most prolific fashion writers, Emilia Petrarca, whose popular shopping newsletter, Shop Rat, turns a year old this month. Emilia gives a play-by-play of her climb up the masthead — which involves stints at W Magazine and New York Magazine’s The Cut — and shares the most important lessons she’s learned along the way, including the realizations that there’s no such thing as a “dream job” anymore, and the career path promised in The Devil Wears Prada is obsolete in today’s media landscape. Tune in to find out how she pioneered the nepo baby beat, why a story about Paris Hilton changed the trajectory of her career, how she learned to follow her instincts, hone her voice, and go with her gut, what it was like to attend runway shows alongside Cathy Horyn, why getting offline and going outside are crucial for creativity, the most important (and fun!) parts of reporting from Fashion Month, how she decided it was time to bet on herself and do her own thing, the ups and downs of navigating freelance life while starting a publication from scratch, how to know you have a hit story on your hands, the power of saying “no,” what’s in store for year two of Shop Rat, and so much more. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

CW: This episode contains discussion of disordered eating, body image, and weight loss. If you’ve spent any amount of time scrolling TikTok or X (formerly known as Twitter) over the last several months, you’ve likely come across some version of “thinspo” — whether in the form of low-calorie “What I Eat in a Day” videos or before-and-after weight loss photos — even if you’re not seeking it out. Because we’re at the mercy of the algorithm, this imagery is almost impossible to avoid, which is dangerous for people of all ages. Ruthie Friedlander, the founder of At Large Agency and co-founder of The Chain — a non-profit organization that provides peer support for folks working in the fashion and entertainment industries who are struggling with or recovering from an eating disorder — drops by this week to discuss the reemergence of ED culture on the internet, on the runway, and in media. Tune in for Ruthie’s insights on what it’s like to work in fashion while in active eating disorder recovery, how seeing this imagery consistently can negatively affect your psyche and how you feel about yourself, why marketing buzzwords like “detox” and “clean” are harmful, how to tell when you’re seeing ED behavior hidden under the guise of “wellness,” whether brands and marketers have a responsibility for the images that are projected out to their customers via social media, why Ozempic has become normalized so quickly in the entertainment community and beyond, and where you can turn for help if you or a loved one is struggling with the onslaught of pro-ED content online. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com