The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it. And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, that’s fine, too. There’s no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. There’s no shame in using a hold other people aren’t. What’s possible, though, is that if you always choose one way or the other, then you’ve painted yourself into a corner. A corner that just doesn’t offer as many opportunities to learn. So there’s a question that both of you should be asking yourselves. And that question is: Can I do it both ways? Can I become more adaptable? That’s two questions, but you know what I mean...   Read the rest at the blog! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing. This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020. ____________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin ____________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ 📚CHAPTERS (0:00) Theme (0:37) Intro (2:29) Topic Description (4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities (8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better (12:00) Observation and Building Awareness (17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement (19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred (24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful (32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement (39:58) Self Expression via Movement (43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight (51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps (55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss (01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence (01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort (01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort (01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself (01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away (01:13:54) Outro

Rob Gray, an Associate Professor at Arizona State University and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox, delves into the nuances of skill acquisition in climbing. He contrasts Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics theories, emphasizing adaptability. The concept of 'repetition without repetition' is explored, highlighting how climbers must adjust techniques in varied conditions. Gray advocates for a constraints-led approach, allowing athletes to self-organize and make decisions, ultimately improving their movement skills by mimicking real-world scenarios.

Rob Gray, an associate professor and skill acquisition specialist at Arizona State University, dives deep into the disconnect between sports science researchers and coaches. He discusses the challenges of translating complex research into practical coaching insights, emphasizing the need for clearer communication and accessibility in publications. Gray also explores the importance of individual case studies for optimizing athlete performance and the delicate balance between anecdotal evidence and empirical research in coaching. This engaging conversation sets the stage for more insights in the next installment.

Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that you’ll hear more about later, as well as on Youtube, Instagram, the blog, and the newsletter, for the next 10 or so episodes we’re going to be digging deep into movement and skill acquisition: the research, the theories, anecdotes and experiences, and of course, practical application. And Patrons will be getting bonus episodes on the same topic. At the end of the two or so months, we’ll wrap it all up with a podcast episode and a newsletter. We’re aiming for 3 or 4 of these FOCUS periods this year; we hope you’ll tune in to see how it goes. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Mentioned in this episode: Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos Taped Tips | Connect the Dots Written In Stone Movement Practice Resources The Current   You might also enjoy these related episodes: Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing P.O.E. with Will Anglin & Rowland Chen ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster.  In this bonus episode from our Patron feed, Kris and Nate discuss 3 of their Top 6 Indoor Lessons. To hear their 3 favorites as well, you can get those bonus episodes on Patreon or in your Apple Podcast Feed or on Spotify by subscribing to the We Scream Like Eagles Podcast. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER You might also enjoy this related episode: BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Introduction (00:01:24) Topic Explanation (00:07:13) Be Picky About Projects (00:15:11) Below Project Level, Climb Everything (00:27:51) Climbing With and Around Crowds (00:35:30) Become a Patron to Get the Top 3. Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their top 5 lessons from climbing outside that, when taken indoors, can help us become better climbers faster. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Check out our Proven Plans to jumpstart your intention indoors. Check out the Comment Card blog post mentioned in this episode. You might also enjoy these related episodes:  BOARD MEETINGS: Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni BOARD MEETINGS: How to Make the Most of a Board Session ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.  ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Introduction and Topic Explanation (00:05:55) Using and Practicing Better Tactics (00:14:32) Bring Mid-Session Snacks or Food (00:25:44) Go In With a Plan (00:28:38) Power Company Proven Plans (00:29:18) Set Goals (00:35:47) Not Complaining About the Setting (00:48:57) Outro

With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related episodes: BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:22) Topic Explanation (4:27) MicroLearning (5:39) More Content Isn't Better (9:30) Actively Participating (14:32) The Problem with Social Media Discourse (18:54) What to Prioritize (23:18) Entertainment vs. Education (25:21) Find the Voices that Resonate (32:43) Recognize the Biases (39:56) Follow the Topic (43:25) Just in Case vs. Just in Time (50:03) Learning from Video (58:23) Shape the Algorithm (1:04:04) Create Playlists and Saved Folders (1:06:01) Taking Notes and Making it Stick (1:10:00) Don't Forget the Past Information (1:12:00) Writing About What You've Learned (1:17:35) The Things We Are Changing (1:35:38) Outro

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all... ...which route was really the world’s first 9a? Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.   This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio. Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.  

Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formidable Hazel Findlay solidified her status as one of the strongest trad climbers in the world with the send. She reflected on her experience working the line at her blog, which is a must-read. Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send, strategies she no doubt called on to take down Magic Line. She talks breathing techniques, pre-climbing rituals, flow state, and more. When this episode was recorded, Hazel was just beginning her journey into being a professional coach, and she has since continued along that path, founding Strong Mind, which specializes in mental training for climbers, and also the Strong Mind Podcast, which she hosts. If you’re interested in learning more about Hazel and Strong Mind’s offerings, check out Hazel’s Performance Hacks course!   Read Hazel's blog about her Magic Line experience. Check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course. Check out Strong Mind online. Follow Hazel on Instagram. This episode originally aired on September 3, 2017.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.