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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Latest episodes

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Jan 29, 2020 • 52min

Yves Gravelle | For the Love of Training

Yves Gravelle is a legendary Canadian strongman, and pound for pound may have the strongest grip in the world. I suppose that likely helps him climb V14, but it's not the only reason. He's also a workhorse who is a stickler for the details. He's also a father, husband, business owner, and youth coach. Somewhere in there he's found time to be an Armlifting World Champion with numerous world records, as well as a prolific first ascentionist near his home in Ottawa.  You can find Yves on Instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle You can check out his mask making company at: https://www.instagram.com/metamorphose_masks Some of the tools Yves uses: Saxon Bar: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/saxon-bar-custom?variant=29697039237233 Wrist Wrench: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/axle-wrench?variant=16730872774769 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Jan 9, 2020 • 42min

Troy Fauteux | Try Harder

Troy Fauteux tries harder than you. His try hard might have gotten him up hard boulders before the mental skills had a chance to catch up - but I suspect those are coming along just fine.  To make the most of this interview go HERE and watch the video of Troy doing The Mandala in Bishop. THEN listen to the episode.  Once you're finished, go HERE and watch this video of Troy just two weeks before doing his first V11. Turn up your volume and enjoy.  We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Dec 26, 2019 • 1h 3min

BOARD MEETINGS | Art of the Side Goal

Not all goals need to be major, far off events. Not all goals need to lead you directly toward those major goals. Sometimes it's perfectly ok - even encouraged - to have a side goal. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Dec 9, 2019 • 1h 5min

Dr. Favia Dubyk | Survive to Thrive

The phrase “a force to be reckoned with” doesn’t quite do justice to Dr. Favia Dubyk. Yes, she is a force, but that phrase conjures up images of some stoic, menacing figure, and Favia is the polar opposite of this image. She’s funny, excited, genuine, and unassuming - unless you happen to see her in a tanktop. However, it’s not the biceps that I’m most interested in. It’s the brains and the spirit. In her 3rd year of medical school Favia was diagnosed with late stage Hodgkin’s Lymphoma and given a few weeks to live. A fight that had nothing to do with biceps ensued, and Favia has now been in remission from cancer for several years. Yes, she is a survivor, but again, she defies the word. Thriver seems to be a much better fit. Dr. Dubyk finished her degree and now works at the University of New Mexico as a pathologist, having switched her focus from sports medicine surgery to an area where she could impact other people who had been diagnosed with cancer. As is evident from the biceps - she doesn’t pour all of her time into pathology. She’s competed on American Ninja Warrior and climbs at a high level - preferring hard roof climbing to other styles. We sat down in Hueco Tanks for not nearly enough time to hear the whole story, but plenty to know that Favia is indeed a force. You can find Favia online at www.traversegirl.com You can follow Favia on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/felinefavia Watch the ANW video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oybWgRWsB9g We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Nov 26, 2019 • 1h 12min

Dr. Natasha Barnes | Pain Science for Climbers

If you have been interested in training for climbing for more than a few days, it’s likely that you know of Dr. Natasha Barnes. She’s not only a former national champion climber and champion power lifter, but is a doctor based in San Francisco who specializes in rehabilitation, orthopedic sports medicine and physiotherapy for climbers and lifters. I’ve known Natasha for some time, and when I booked a workshop in San Francisco, I knew I had to sit down and get her on the show. Hopefully the first of many appearances. In this episode we discuss pain - how we experience and react to it, as well as actionable ways to try and determine if it’s actually an injury - or just your brain convincing you that it is. Pain Science Resources Lorimer Moseley “Why Things Hurt” TEDx Talk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwd-wLdIHjs Tame The Beast https://www.tamethebeast.org/ Curable Health App https://www.curablehealth.com/ Pain is Weird from PainScience.com https://www.painscience.com/articles/pain-is-weird.php Central Sensitization https://www.painscience.com/articles/central-sensitization.php   You can find Dr. Barnes online at https://natashabarnesrehab.com/ You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/natashabarnes Check out the all new and updated Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Nov 18, 2019 • 52min

Alex Megos & Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt

Alex Megos may well be the strongest climber in the world. But is he the best?  In this episode I sit down with Megos and his good friend Ken Etzel, the director of the new film that we are discussing, Rotpunkt.  Rotpunkt gives us a rare glimpse into the up and down struggles of someone trying to become the best in the world. Maybe not suprisingly, these are struggles that every single one of us can relate to. Possibly even more fascinating is the bond that was forged between filmmaker and athlete, and the pressures that this bond had to endure while making the film.  You can find the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k You can find Alex Megos on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexandermegos You can find Ken Etzel on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ken_etzel We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Nov 15, 2019 • 47min

BOARD MEETINGS | Thanks A Milli

ONE MILLION DOWNLOADS. Thank you for the continued and growing support! It means the world.  In this episode, Nate and I sit down to talk about where it all started and why we keep doing it.  We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Nov 11, 2019 • 1h 9min

Bill Ramsey | A Philosophy of Sending

Bill Ramsey is a legend. He had achieved near mythical status in the Red River Gorge by the time I started paying attention to sport climbing. Pioneering many of the best hard sport climbs that now draw flocks of people to Kentucky’s steep sandstone crags, Bill wasn’t the typical 24 year old developer with a part time job and nowhere specific to be. He was a Professor of Philosophy at The University of Notre Dame - an over 14 hour round trip to and from The Red - a drive that Bill made weekly. His routes Omaha Beach, Transworld Depravity, Golden Boy, and The Return of Darth Moll, among many other classics, came from this period. He’s done 26 5.14’s - 25 of those after turning 40. Bill recently checked one of his life list, Randy Leavitt’s stunning Jumbo Pumping Hate (14a) at Clark Mountain. He had just turned 59 and was a few days from hip surgery. To say that Bill is dedicated is a massive understatement, and we haven’t even mentioned his training sessions. Without going too far into detail, Bill has found that marathon sessions work well for him, and he’s stuck to that with great results. Perhaps most intriguing, and most universally applicable, is his idea of The Pain Box, which we discuss in the episode.  As I get older it gets a little tougher to find the same inspiration in the 20 year old crushers that I once did, and there just aren’t that many 40+ year old climbers still chasing progression. Bill has always been someone I’ve looked up to as not only a great example of perseverance and dedication in his climbing, but in his life choices as well. Bill moved from a tenured position at Notre Dame to UNLV so that he could be closer to the year round climbing in Las Vegas. Not content with a schedule that he could fill with climbing and training, Bill gives back to the community as Vice President of the Southern Nevada Climber’s Coalition. Every step of the way, a legend. You can find Bill's full Pain Box essay at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2019/11/11/ep-150-a-philosophy-of-sending-with-bill-ramsey We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Nov 4, 2019 • 1h 40min

Dr. Jared Vagy | Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics

For Dr. Jared Vagy's third appearance on the podcast, we decided to tackle a few hotly debated topics - things like stretching, prehab, training "dangerous" grip positions, and more.  If you haven't listened to Episodes 88 and 107, featuring Jared's Rock Rehab Pyramid, they are worth the time.  You can find Dr. Vagy online at www.theclimbingdoctor.com You can get his book, Climb Injury Free, at https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/ Great video from Quinn Henoch on static stretching that we reference in the episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgL8GkzpNsw We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Oct 28, 2019 • 59min

Will Anglin & Rowland Chen | P.O.E. Part 2

Episode 12 with Will Anglin and Rowland Chen quickly became a cult classic. Today we bring them back for P.O.E. Part 2, a follow up to examine how the P.O.E. path they had both embarked on had worked out. If you haven't yet, it will be to your benefit to go back and listen to that episode. Go ahead. We'll wait.  Both, despite their lives getting busier, have made big progress - not an easy thing to do when you're already climbing at a high level. There have been mistakes, reassessment, taking things too far, desk jobs, and less free time, but they've found their way to progress. Be prepared to laugh, but you might also want to take notes.  You can find Rowland on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/rowwlaaand/ You can find Will on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/wlanglin/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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