The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Today's episode comes from Hip Hop Taught Me Everything, another podcast hosted by Kris Hampton and part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Without a strong rhyme to step to. Think of how many weak shows you slept through. Time's up. I'm sorry I kept you. -Rakim, "I Know You Got Soul"   Follow all of our shows at: Hip Hop Taught Me Everything Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Plug Tone Outdoors Plug Tone Audio   We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Welcome. There's a lot to get caught up on. Let's get into it.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Resin, rosin, pof. Whatever you call it, it's widely accepted that we should NOT use it while climbing. It's said to ruin holds - both indoors and out. Now it might be in your chalk. Block, liquid, and powder.  This is a public service announcement.  Learn more about the science of climbing on Breaking Beta.   Read more about pof and rosin usage: UK Climbing Forum To Pof or Not To Pof? UK Bergzeit Journal Why Climbers Started Using Chalk Removing Rosin from Liquid Chalk We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ten years ago this week in April, 2012, Rannveig Aamodt made a nearly fatal mistake while cleaning the anchors of a sport route in Turkey. She fell 50 feet to the ground, shattering her back, pelvis, arm, and both ankles. We won’t be going into what caused the accident, but you can read that story, including some heart wrenching excerpts, at her blog about the accident. Instead, this episode is about her recovery. The physical and mental approach she took. The resilience and the will. It’s about how she went from clinging to life, to climbing harder than ever, and what it took to get back on the sharp end, and past the spectre of that moment. This conversation originally aired on February 19, 2016. Find Rannveig online:   Her Site. Instagram. Facebook. Gallery of rehab photos from Nathan Welton     The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we're revisiting Episode 4 of The Average Climber Podcast. If you aren't already subscribed to their show, go do that now!  Learn more about The Average Climber Podcast. Find Lauren at Good Spray Climbing. Find Caitlin at Caitlin Holmes Nutrition. If you haven't listened to Breaking Beta Season 1, get caught up now! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Check out the new course at the Power Company Climbing Academy - The Shape of Power. You'll get: Nearly 3 hours of discussion and instructional videos with Nate and Kris. In-depth analysis of 10 bouldering case studies, both indoor and out. 4 Practice Sessions to help you start using these skills in the gym. Downloadable Course Guide Ebook. Self-paced instruction and unlimited access to course materials. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This episode is the first 40 minutes of a nearly 2 hour long episode about gamifying climbing, and the pros and cons of individual popular games that many of us play.  To get the final hour of this episode, and at least 2 bonus Board Meetings every month, become a Patron!   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode we hear from Emily Holland at Nature Untold, in a re-airing of her episode Eating Disorder Recovery - We Can All Do Better Together.  Featured in this episode are Dr. Jennifer Gaudiani, Jenna Celmer, and Caroline Wickes.   Resources for eating disorders: The Gaudiani Clinic Website The Gaudiani Clinic Instagram (has free resources and information) Full Gaudiani Clinic Resources List Catch up with Jenna Celmer: Jenna’s Instagram Catch up with Caroline Wickes: Caroline’s Instagram Article: Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating-Disorder Intervention? Episode: Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders in Climbing Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show’s Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you’d like. We also have a Patreon if you’re interested in supporting everything Nature Untold is cooking up. ______________________________ Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta. In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.   Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.   Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.