The Business of Fashion Podcast

Having dominated Hollywood's cinematic landscape for decades, Angelina Jolie is now moving into uncharted territory — the world of fashion. This week, she opened the doors to Atelier Jolie, a multi-purpose brick-and-mortar workshop at 57 Great Jones Street in New York, once a home to art world legends Andy Warhol and Jean Michel Basquiat. The historic location reveals the motivations, philosophies and aspirations of Jolie’s new venture. Atelier Jolie aims to provide a global group of artists and designers — including immigrants and refugees —  a collaborative space for creating garments, including custom pieces, entirely out of deadstock materials.  “I don't think of it as fashion. I think about it as self-expression and community,” Jolie says of her new business. This week on The BoF Podcast, Imran Amed sits down with Angelina Jolie to explore her creative journey and the personal philosophy that has led her to focus on ethical and sustainable fashion. Key Insights: Jolie’s vision for Atelier Jolie is to allow small-scale artisans a chance to develop and grow their craft, and be able to support themselves . “Giving opportunities for people to work for themselves is the best thing we can all do for everyone. To me, doing business globally and partnering … matter to me more than just donations and charities,” she says.Jolie wants the creativity of others to be front and centre at Atelier Jolie. “I'm not interested in becoming a known designer,” she says. “I'm interested in being a part of a good family. … I built more of a home and I'm one of the creators that play in the home.”A sense of playfulness is also key to the business, which Jolie imagines as a space for free expression. “You have to make a mess and you have to figure out what you really love,” she says, adding that “I think for a long time … I haven't found the joy of [dressing up] because there was so much that was bothering me about the business. But now I want to play.”The New York location features a retail space, a café and a design studio. The plan is to adapt the format to new markets. “I would like to partner with people in different countries, and I'd like them to share ownership of the place and of the designs,” she says, noting that for example “the atelier that will be in Japan should feel very different, should be owned differently, should be run differently, but same principles.”When it comes to turning personal passions into projects that make a tangible impact on the world, Jolie’s advice is straightforward: “You know what it is that really stirs your soul and makes you upset. … Whatever that is, you find other people that share that same feeling and spend time with them and go deeply into the work.” Additional Resources:Angelina Jolie Launches Fashion VentureAngelina Jolie’s Atelier Jolie Opens Its First StoreWhy Celebrities Are Buying Their Brands Back Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Leena Nair, the first-ever global CEO of Indian-origin for Chanel, shares her vision, leadership philosophies, and advice for women who feel like outsiders. Growing up in India, she faced gendered stereotypes, but learned to ignore them. Nair emphasizes the importance of empathy, kindness, and collective problem-solving in leadership. She discusses Chanel's philanthropy efforts, staying connected to the cultural ecosystem, and encourages being unafraid and ambitious. A trailblazer leading Chanel into the future.

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, a fashion stylist and editor who resigned from Vogue, discusses her decision to leave and her mission to support the next generation of fashion talent. She explores topics like staying true to oneself in a demanding industry, the challenges and scrutiny of magazine cover shoots, overcoming obstacles in the fashion industry, and the importance of communication and nurturing environment in building successful brands.

The pioneering set designer speaks to BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed about how she’s set the stage for some of fashion’s most talked-about immersive experiences.Background:In the world of set design, Es Devlin is a trailblazing, unstoppable force. Her remarkable career has seen her craft stages for global superstars like Beyoncé, U2 and Adele as well as immersive experiences for Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent and most recently, Gucci which recently brought its Cosmos exhibition to London’s 180 The Strand.But to describe Es as a set designer only feels somewhat reductive. She is a deep thinker who approaches her work like a creative philosopher, examining critical questions about the world.This week on The BoF Podcast, Devlin joins BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss her career and her impressions of fashion — as well as her advice for young creatives.  Key Insights: Devlin approaches work through multiple lenses. “The practice is to see it through my own eyes, then see it through my collaborators eyes, then finally to see it through the audience's eyes,” she said. “Building on all of those converging and colliding… viewpoints… I think it's a very helpful muscle to learn just in living.”In creating bespoke environments, narrative is a central part of Devlin’s process, particularly in working with fashion companies. “What I've learned… is how to tell a story about the history of a house through an experience that an audience will walk through,” she says.For creatives who may not have the budget of established fashion houses, Devlin encourages leaning on scarcity as a tool to harness creativity. “You can make a gesture by picking a place and turning all the lights out. You could make a gesture by just doing everything in one colour,” Devlin says. “Make your limitations… be the point, be the advantage.”As AI plays a bigger role in her own work Devlin is studying the technology to learn more, rather than work with it without context. “My approach generally is to learn to read as much as I can rather than speaking from a position of inaccuracy or ignorance.”Additional Resources:Gucci Cosmos Exhibition Arrives in LondonAt Saint Laurent, Far From Fashion Week  Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Hear from Anaita Shroff-Adajania, Bandana Tewari, Lakshmi Menon, and Katrina Kaif as they discuss the evolving beauty landscape in India, including issues of representation, diversity, and the influence of Western perspectives. They also touch upon the importance of values, principles, and loyalty in the beauty industry.

This week on The BoF Podcast, Condé Nast Britain’s chief business officer speaks with purpose and intuition coach Mory Fontanez about leading as an outsider in the modern workplace.Background:In 2017, Vanessa Kingori became British Vogue’s first female publishing director. Since then, she has become a mother, received an MBE and stepped into the additional role of chief business officer of Condé Nast Britain.At BoF VOICES 2021, Kingori shared her leadership lessons with Mory Fontanez, purpose and intuition coach and founder of consultancy 822 Group. They discussed the importance of trusting intuition in the workplace to bolster data-driven decisions while also challenging conformity to allow for creativity.“With the wonderful thing that is hindsight, I’ve realised it’s okay to be intuitive,” said Kingori. “It’s actually great to lean into your differences rather than try to push to assimilate too much.”Key Insights: Throughout her life, Kingori has leaned into being a newcomer, “I think I've been extremely fortunate in that I have lived a life where I am used to being an outsider. I've been in an organisation now for over 12 years and in every single facet of my work at Condé Nast, I've been the outsider,” Kingori says. For Kingori, being different has not only been personally beneficial, but also forms part of her business philosophy. “I think conformity is the enemy of progress and creativity in business. It's completely strange that we're all sort of desperately trying to belong to a tribe, think the same, and all of those things.”  Intuition is a cornerstone of Kingori’s leadership philosophy. “Let your intuition be the starting point. Intuition is about a subconscious understanding of something, but that subconscious understanding comes from somewhere. It's not magic… It's that you have experienced or observed something that underpins a strong belief,” she says.BoF VOICES, our annual gathering for big thinkers, returns from Nov. 28 to Nov. 30, 2023. The entire event will be livestreamed for BoF Professional All-Access members. Register now to join us.Additional Resources:Power Moves | Vanessa Kingori’s New Role at Condé Nast, Everlane’s Founder Leaves CEO RoleVanessa Kingori’s Commercial Reboot of British VogueThe September Issue Gets an Overdue Makeover Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The South Sudanese model reflects on her path from a Kenyan refugee camp to travelling the globe as an international top model.Background: South Sudanese model Adut Akech has made her mark on fashion, having appeared on countless international magazine covers and on the runway for brands including Chanel and Prada. But Akech’s story begins worlds away from fashion shows and Vogue cover shoots: The model was born while her family was fleeing war in South Sudan and spent her early years in a Kenyan refugee camp."I will always be a refugee, because that's who I am," she told BoF's editor-at-large Tim Blanks on stage at BoF VOICES in 2018. "No amount of money or my status or how famous or whatever the case is... I'm always going to be a refugee and I'm proud of who I am."This week on The BoF Podcast, revisit Akech and Blanks’ conversation, where they discuss Akech’s childhood and journey to the fashion industry. Key Insights: Though she spent part of her childhood in a refugee camp, Akech recalls those years being mostly happy. “I didn’t know I was in a refugee camp, I had cousins there, I had friends… some of the best memories are just running around and playing,” she says. Her first experience modelling was in a small fashion show put on by her aunt, who was a fashion designer. That moment made her realise she wanted to model professionally. “I just fell in love instantly," she says. "When I’m on the runway, I’m a whole different person."Growing up, Akech idolised Black models Naomi Campbell and Alek Wek. Now, she serves as a source of inspiration for the next generation of Black models. "I have people messaging me saying I inspired them to love their Black skin, that I inspired them to chase their dreams," she says.BoF VOICES, our annual gathering for big thinkers, returns from November 28 to November 30, 2023, uniting the movers, shakers and trailblazers of the fashion industry with the thought leaders, entrepreneurs and inspiring people shaping the wider world. The entire event will be livestreamed for BoF Professional All-Access members. Register now to join us.Additional Resources:Adut Akech, Top Model: On InclusivityDapper Dan, Adut Akech, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Chika Are Our #BoF500 Cover StarsHow Valentino Embraced Diversity Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Christian Louboutin, the fashion designer known for his iconic red-soled shoes, discusses the influence of his multicultural background on his brand and personal identity. He shares his discovery of his Egyptian heritage and the impact it had on his perspective. Louboutin also reflects on the balance between passion and profit in entrepreneurship and the importance of embracing different cultures for a unified worldview.

Pharrell Williams, the men's creative director of Louis Vuitton, discusses his vision for the brand and his journey into the luxury industry. Williams approaches design from a customer's perspective and aims to expand the Louis Vuitton brand. He emphasizes the importance of authenticity in online communities and the role of emotions in the design process. The podcast also explores the power of imagination and empowerment in fashion, as well as leadership and balance in creative work.

BoF’s editor-at-large and founder and editor-in-chief look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Sabato de Sarno’s debut at Gucci to Sarah Burton’s farewell show for Alexander McQueen.Background: This season, fashion month saw several highly-anticipated debuts (Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, and Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford) as well as goodbyes (Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Fabio Zambernardi at Prada and Miu Miu, and Gabriela Hearst at Chloé). But, beyond those headline-making moments, the highlights included the slyness and humour at Prada where models walked down a runway against a backdrop of dripping slime, the spine-tingling soundtrack at Dries Van Noten and models at JW Anderson in plasticine-made hoodies.“The best shows make you think and make you feel a little uncomfortable or they evoke some kind of emotion — but they also make you want to shop,” says Imran Amed, BoF’s founder and editor-in-chief. Following the conclusion of Paris Fashion Week, Amed sat down with BoF’s editor-at-large Tim Blanks to discuss the highlights of the Spring/Summer 2024 season and the hallmarks of a great fashion show. Key Insights:Sabato de Sarno’s much-anticipated debut at Gucci, which included a change of venue from the streets of Milan’s Brera district to Gucci’s headquarters forced by inclement weather. “If those girls had been walking on cobblestones just like people going somewhere, seeing those clothes in a real environment, it would have taken on a different kind of life,” says Blanks.   Alexander McQueen said goodbye to Sarah Burton, who served as a steward for the brand for more than 10 years after the death of its namesake designer. ( “ She was so umbilically connected with [McQueen] that the brand ethos was sustained to a remarkable degree. I would hate to see McQueen now become one of those brands where no one really knows what to do with it and it's in play,” says Blanks. Rick Owens show featured plumes of coloured smoke and bursts of rose petals — and a collection full of thought-provoking statement pieces. “There is really no one like him in fashion, and I don’t know if there has ever been anyone like him in fashion,” says Blanks. Blanks calls Undercover’s Jun Takahashi one of the industry’s most fascinating designers. This year, Takahashi showed a provocative collection that played with proportions and layering, with a finale that included “terrarium” skirts, filled with plants and live butterflies. “He makes clothes that … people might consider to be avant garde, but they're so beautiful and wearable as well,” says Blanks.Prada was the “show of the season.” A few years into Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ collaboration as co-creative directors, the show’s success was a convergence of elements beyond the collection itself — from the soundtrack (Alfred Hitchcok’s “Vertigo”) to the set. “It reminded us of Prada in its full glory where there was that slyness and humour and perverse glamour,” says Blanks.  Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.