The Business of Fashion Podcast

Tim Blanks, Editor at large of The Business of Fashion, delves into the Spring/Summer 2025 shows, where designers embraced restraint amidst a global slowdown. He highlights the emotional depth and creativity from brands like Marni, Valentino's Alessandro Michele, and Loewe's Jonathan Anderson, who pushed boundaries with unique storytelling. The discussion reveals a shift towards introspection in fashion, contrasting with past extravagance, while emphasizing the future of expressive styles over quiet luxury.

Department stores are facing a tough reality as they struggle against the rise of online shopping and changing consumer behaviors. Activist investors are complicating matters, focusing more on real estate than retail viability. A potential merger in the sector raises antitrust concerns, challenging the cultural significance of brands. The Nordstrom family aims for revival with a bold bid, while innovative store design and strategic merchandising could offer a glimmer of hope for these iconic retailers.

In a captivating discussion, Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci and Valentino, shares insights into his artistic journey. He reflects on the legacy of Valentino Garavani, stating, "There is always Valentino somewhere with me." Michele emphasizes the importance of staying true to oneself, viewing success as embracing personal authenticity rather than traditional metrics. He explores the deep connections between nostalgia, creative freedom, and the transformative power of fashion, inspiring aspiring designers to cherish their unique paths.

Brian Baskin, a fashion critic known for his insights into the evolution of menswear, joins correspondents Malique Morris and Lei Takanashi to dissect the current state of style for men. They scrutinize the 'starter pack' syndrome, where brands opt for safe, interchangeable looks that prioritize approachability over creativity. The discussion touches on how brands, like Aimé Leon Dore, have inadvertently stifled individuality in fashion, leading to a fascinating exploration of storytelling as the key to brand distinction in a sea of sameness.

Skepta, a famed grime MC and founder of the fashion brand Mains, discusses his journey through the fashion world. He emphasizes that success is not instant and underscores the value of learning through failure. Skepta reveals how his love for fashion was sparked by the vibrant style of garage music culture and the challenges he faced while launching Mains. He champions the idea of embracing an outsider's perspective in the industry and highlights perseverance and individuality as key to creative freedom in fashion.

Luxury fashion's leadership often resembles an exclusive club, where diversity struggles to gain a foothold. Conversations highlight how unexamined biases shape perceptions of design talent. Consumer demand for diverse representation is growing, pushing brands to rethink traditional norms. Creative roles remain dominated by familiar networks, but initiatives are emerging to provide educational access for underrepresented communities. There’s a call for a shift towards inclusivity, ensuring that women and diverse talents are given fair opportunities.

Clare Waight Keller, a versatile designer known for her roles at prestigious fashion houses like Givenchy and Gucci, shares insights from her eclectic career. She discusses how embracing discomfort has driven her creativity and led her to unexpected roles. Clare reflects on her early influences in Birmingham and her innovative knitwear education, navigating the competitive 90s fashion landscape. She dives into her new role at Uniqlo, focusing on blending femininity into its offerings and the importance of representation for young women in the industry.

Shein is revolutionizing the fast fashion landscape, challenging former leaders like H&M with its ultra-low prices and rapid production. H&M is now striving to find its identity, aiming for a sweet spot between budget brands and higher-quality options. The discussion highlights the environmental impact of Shein's explosive growth and H&M's efforts to embrace sustainability amid fierce competition. Insights into how fast fashion disruptors navigate market saturation and consumer demands provide a glimpse into the ever-evolving fashion industry.

Lyas, a compelling fashion communicator known for his incisive insights, discusses the vital role of storytelling in fashion. He reflects on the loss of creativity in the industry and the disposability of designers today. Through personal experiences, Lyas shares how his queer Arab French identity informs his humor and emotional narratives. He emphasizes the need for inclusivity in fashion storytelling and critiques the struggles of emerging brands, advocating for authenticity and individuality in a rapidly changing landscape.

Nike faces its toughest challenges yet, battling fierce competition and internal issues. Leadership changes and a mismanaged direct-to-consumer approach have tarnished its once-dominant status. Over-reliance on classic sneaker lines like the Air Force 1 is causing consumer fatigue. Meanwhile, rivals like Hoka and Adidas are rapidly gaining ground. The discussion dives into Nike's struggle to innovate and reconnect with its audience. Despite the turmoil, there's a glimmer of hope for a brand revival through new strategies and bold leadership shifts.