the Sharp End Podcast

In this conversation, Nick Tollison, owner of Beta Climbing, shares his harrowing experience with multi-pitch climbing. After years in indoor climbing gyms, he takes a leap into the outdoors but finds himself in a dangerous situation during his first attempt. Nick discusses the chaos of a severe fall, the importance of communication, and the emotional aftermath of facing fear. He emphasizes the value of tailored instruction from expert guides, contrasting it with the unpredictability of unsupervised climbing, offering crucial lessons for beginners.

Foster and his two best friends were in the sport multi pitch climbing paradise that is El Potrero Chico in north eastern Mexico. It was their fourth visit to that climbing area and they had their eyes on a 15 pitch climb called ‘Devotion 5.11d.’ It’s a lesser known climb that is notorious for being a bit run out, hard for the grade, and chossy. Listen in to this episode to hear Foster’s account of his huge fall that resulted in a remote helicopter rescue. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, MyMedic and Desert Mountain Medicine. ---> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product at foursigmatic.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On June 26th, 2021, Tori and a few of her friends were feeling strong and decided to climb Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in Colorado. The weather was forecasting classic Rocky Mountain afternoon thunderstorms so they got an early start. Knowing that this route was well in their ability level, they decided to go light and fast. Tune in to episode 67 to hear Tori tell her story of finding her edge on Ellingwood Ridge. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #PlayHardAndBeSmart #outdoorpodcast #wildernessmedicine #americanalpineclub #rockytalkie #backcountrymedicine #getoutside #helicopterrescue #helirescue #mountainrescue #searchandrescue #ellingwoodridge #laplata #gooutlight #ultralight #baclountryaccident

Four friends set off to climb Mount Rae. A 4.9 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Kananaskis Improvement in Alberta, Canada that features a beautiful forest setting and is only recommended for very experienced adventurers. On the descent, one women slipped and fell and wasn’t able to self arrest in the snow. Ultimately, she pressed the SOS on her Garmin InReach and what ensued was a heroic heli rescue. Listen in to all four perspectives of this accident. Two of the women who were there, the rescuer and even the heli pilot all share their perspective from the day Vi broke her neck. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Matt and Trevor had plenty of experience hiking 14ers in Colorado, so when Matt's Dad was in Colorado visiting they decided to take him up Mt. Bierstadt so he could check off his first 14er to celebrate turning 70. On May 8, 2021 the group was nearing the top when weather changed dramatically from what the forecast had informed them of earlier. They suddenly found themselves (along with another group of hikers) caught in a lightning storm with extremely low visibility and rapidly dropping temperatures. We all will inevitably be faced with unexpected situations in the backcountry that require us to make decisions on the fly as a group. These situations require the use of that extra gear we keep with us "just in case.” In this episode, find out why Trevor and Matt learned the importance of planning for unpredictability and for planning for overnights. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, and Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode was edited by Podboarder. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Jes Scott and Erica Ellefsen set out to travel 80km from Mt. Washington to Flower Ridge over eight days. Their goal was to climb eight of Strathcona Park’s tallest and most remote mountains. Strathcona Provincial Park is the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, and the largest on Vancouver Island. They wanted a trip that was physically demanding but less scary than their usual mountaineering trips. Listen in to this episode to hear what went wrong during their traverse and how their Garmin InReach device was the tool they needed to get rescued. You can read more about this accident on Jes’s personal blog: https://webelongoutside.com/2020/08/a-long-traverse-in-strathcona-park-where-many-things-go-wrong/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, Wilderness Medicine Reference App and Desert Mountain Medicine. Sign up to win the Garmin InReach Mini on Instagram by tagging a friend AND sharing one thing you learned from this episode. I will do the drawing May 15th. Good luck! Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Jean and Ken summited Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the continental US, on what they thought would be their last day of the trip. On the summit they were caught in a severe snow and lightning storm. Using their ice axes, they began to descend via the north face in full self-arrest position. Ken fell 800 feet down the mountain while Jean, not knowing his fate, continued down slowly and methodically towards him. Then, at one point during her descent, Jean fell 165 feet bouncing on rocks through a cliff band enduring massive trauma to her body. Listen to this episode to hear a story of extreme grit, tenacity and survival. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Buy Jean’s book at https://www.jeanmuenchrath.com Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Near-misses are greatly under-reported in general, yet they are plentiful. What leads them to be under-reported? Joel Reid, the Washington Program Director at the Northwest Outward Bound School and Steve Smith, from Experiential Consulting, chat with Ashley about why near-misses matter and the importance of reporting near misses in an institutional setting. You don’t want to miss this informative chat. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

We put together a survey in early February so we could get to know our listeners better. We want to know who you are and what you think of the show. Over 400 people filled out this survey and we gathered some good information. Listen in as Dustin from Podboarder and Ashley talk about the results and read some of the comments from fans. By filling out the February survey, you entered to win 1 of 3 prizes. 1. One year American Alpine Membership 2. Pair of Rocky Talkies 3. Aceso Hemp Prize Pack This episode is directed by Ashley Saupe and produced by Dustin at Podboarder. Thanks to the American Alpine Club, Rocky Talkies and Aceso for hooking up my listeners with awesome prizes. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

A fumarole is an opening in the earth which emits steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulfide. The steam forms when superheated water boils as its pressure drops when it emerges from the ground. These holes can be very dangerous. Listen to episode 61 as Scott tells Ashley about his fall into a fumarole during a solo ski mo attempt on Mt Hood in Oregon. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, COROS and Desert Mountain Medicine. Win a prize package from our sponsors by taking our listener survey at: https://sharpend.typeform.com/to/F61rWth9 Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com