the Sharp End Podcast Ep 70 - Learning How to Multi-Pitch, Gone Wrong - Nick Tollison
Nov 1, 2021
In this conversation, Nick Tollison, owner of Beta Climbing, shares his harrowing experience with multi-pitch climbing. After years in indoor climbing gyms, he takes a leap into the outdoors but finds himself in a dangerous situation during his first attempt. Nick discusses the chaos of a severe fall, the importance of communication, and the emotional aftermath of facing fear. He emphasizes the value of tailored instruction from expert guides, contrasting it with the unpredictability of unsupervised climbing, offering crucial lessons for beginners.
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First Multi-Pitch Attempt
- Nick prepared for multi-pitch after ~3 years in gyms and watching videos but had little real multi-pitch experience.
- He and his partner planned a four-day trip to Clark's Canyon with a supposed mentor to learn on-site.
Practice On A Hanging Belay
- The group practiced on a hanging belay on a ~115-foot section using a 70m rope with three people on it.
- The mentor positioned them and asked Nick to take the middle bite and then they practiced moving between two anchor points.
Ropes Crossed, Partner Untied, Fall Ensued
- While preparing to rappel, ropes crossed and the mentor asked the partner to untie from the rope while still clipped to the anchor.
- Nick began rappelling and felt rope tension disappear; he then fell backward and landed without major fractures.
