What's Contemporary Now?

In fashion, there are stylists—and then there are image-makers. As the “C” in KCD and one of the first male editors to define women’s fashion editorial, Paul Cavaco helped shape the modern visual vocabulary of the 1990s, styling everything from Harper’s Bazaar under Liz Tilberis to Madonna’s era-defining Sex book with Steven Meisel and Fabien Baron. Tonne Goodman, whose early days included modeling for Richard Avedon and assisting Diana Vreeland, brought that same instinct for clarity and cultural intuition to her longstanding role as the American fashion editor of Vogue. In a moment when the function—and future—of the fashion editor is being reexamined, hearing from two of its originals felt not only timely, but essential. Their conversation is a reminder that while fashion constantly reinvents itself, the value of vision and integrity never goes out of style."I grew up in the Bronx. There was no fashion in my house. What we had was music, grit, and individuality." - Paul Cavaco "Everything really does happen for a reason. Even the catastrophic moments usually lead to something better." - Tonne Goodman Episode Highlights: The Bronx Meets the Upper East Side - Paul and Tonne reflect on their wildly different upbringings—his gritty childhood in the Bronx, hers in a cultured Manhattan household—and how those contrasting backgrounds shaped their approach to fashion and image-making. Modeling Missteps and Vreeland’s Memo - Tonne shares how her short-lived modeling career ended with a memorable memo from Diana Vreeland describing her as “not pretty,” but still worth investing in—an early lesson in resilience and reinvention. From the Streets to the Studio - Paul shares how growing up in the Bronx and discovering style through music and street culture gave him a grounded, real-world approach to fashion—one rooted not in fantasy, but in everyday grit and individuality. The Madonna Sex Book and the Power of Play - Paul shares behind-the-scenes stories from the making of Madonna’s Sex book, revealing how humor, trust, and improvisation drove one of pop culture’s most provocative moments. Working Under Vreeland, Liz Tilberis, and Anna Wintour - Both editors reflect on their experiences working under three of fashion's most legendary editor-in-chiefs, and how those women shaped the way they understood vision, authority, and trust. Amber in Poughkeepsie - Tonne recounts a story of a shoot gone wrong—turned right—thanks to a vintage car parade and quick thinking. A reminder of how the best images often come from the unexpected. What a Fashion Editor Actually Does - They unpack the evolving role of the fashion editor—from doing everything themselves in the early days to navigating the micromanagement of today’s content-saturated shoots. The Value of Niceness - In an industry known for egos and elitism, both credit their long-term success to gratitude, empathy, and kindness—and explain why being “nice” is often an underrated superpower. On Creative Longevity and Staying Awake - The key to keeping ideas fresh? Staying alive to the world. For Paul, it’s about visual curiosity. For Tonne, it’s emotional connection. For both, it’s a refusal to become calcified. What’s Contemporary Now - Tonne cites empathy and mutual care as the defining principles of the present, while Paul reflects on how enduring values—rather than trends—shape what really matters. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

While it’s nearly impossible to open your eyes without encountering some news item signaling uncertainty or disruption, we couldn’t help but find excitement in the inevitability of change—even when that change isn’t exactly what we might have chosen ourselves. With the season’s remaining episodes ahead, it felt like the right moment to invite audience participation by opening the mic to your questions—ones you’d like answered by the creatives who make up our incredible cast.DM us on Instagram or email us at info@whatscontemporary.com. If you've enjoyed the show, leave us a review and we'll be back soon with more episodes answering the insatiable question, what is contemporary now? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Once upon a time—not so long ago—it was fashionable to declare that print would only endure if it became a luxury object. That forecast now feels less like speculation and more like prophecy. Today, conversation tends to orbit a different anxiety—the ceaseless deluge of content, the flattening effect of algorithmic consumption, and a hunger not just for beauty but for discernment. In that context, Beyond Noise feels less like a magazine and more like an antidote. Conceived by Sarah Richardson as a biannual publication with the weight of a collectible and the spirit of a cultural artefact, it resists the pace of now in favor of something slower, deeper, and yes, more exacting. During the release of the third issue, Richardson joins us to unpack the why, the how, and the why now of her quietly radical vision.“Even if you don’t agree with me, I’d rather build something that reflects a clear point of view. I think people are craving that right now.” - Sarah RichardsonEpisode Highlights: Sketching in the Halls of the V&A - Sarah reflects on her early creative instincts, growing up in central London and spending weekends sketching historical costumes in museums with her culture-loving mother. Fashion Through Film and Family - Watching old movies with her stylish grandmother becomes one of her earliest memories of fashion, setting the tone for a lifelong love of cinematic style and storytelling. From Window Dressing to Styling - Her time at Joseph and Browns led her from visual merchandising to understanding styling as a career path—guided by early encounters with Venetia Scott and a pivotal comment from her father. The Subcultures of London Past - Sarah shares how London’s subcultural richness shaped her worldview and speaks to the shift of that visible diversity in today’s more commercial fashion landscape. Bridging New York and London - With offices in both cities, Sarah discusses the cultural tension and creative energy between New York’s optimism and London’s rebelliousness—and how Beyond Noise brings the best of both worlds together. The Birth of Beyond Noise -  After years of experience across fashion, retail, and publishing, Sarah speaks about her desire to build a platform that reflects her vision and gives space to other creatives. Why Two Volumes Not One - She unpacks the decision to split Beyond Noise into two distinct volumes—Beyond as a purely visual experience, and Noise as a place for culture, commentary, and deeper reading. Editorial Freedom and Artist Trust - Sarah emphasizes the importance of giving creatives true freedom and explains why the magazine avoids the tight constraints often found in traditional publishing models. Sustainability Versus Technology - She responds to the tension between environmental responsibility and technological advancement, expressing optimism about innovation and the belief that embracing progress is key to finding solutions. What’s Contemporary Now - Sarah shares her view on what defines the moment with reflections on social awareness, technological change, and a growing connection to the environment—all anchored by a deep belief in creative optimism. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Some may have balked at the news that a Brit would take the helm of Vogue France, but anyone familiar with Claire Thomson-Jonville knows she has long been fluent in the visual and cultural codes that define the brand. Her Instagram alone reads like a prelude to her appointment—an archive of nuanced Parisian style, shaped by years of aesthetic consistency and editorial clarity. No surprise, then, that Anna Wintour has called her the embodiment of French chic. In this episode, we speak with Claire about her longstanding creative partnership—and rare level of trust—with Alastair McKimm, the growing relevance of wellness both within the pages of the magazine and through Vogue France's first-ever wellness retreat launching this summer, and the references she’s honoring while bringing her own perspective to a title that now operates in a cultural climate markedly different from that of her predecessors.“I’ve always had this instinct to follow the work, not the title. If something felt aligned creatively, I went toward it—even if it didn’t make perfect sense on paper.” - Claire Thomson-JonvilleEpisode Highlights: From Law to Parisian Culture - Claire shares her unexpected path from studying law at the University of Edinburgh to discovering her creative instincts while studying French cinema and literature at the Sorbonne. A Childhood of Sneakers and Style - Growing up with a father in sports retail and a love for magazines, Claire reflects on how early exposure to both Nike culture and glossy pages shaped her creative lens. Landing in Paris at the Right Time - Her arrival in Paris during a golden cultural era led to part-time work for Time Out, early encounters with the Colette circle, and an immersion in the city’s creative pulse. The Self Service Years - Working with Ezra Petronio and Suzanne Koller at Self Service taught Claire the discipline of image-making, the rigors of independent publishing, and the foundations of her visual language. Freelance Freedom and the Rise of Instagram - Embracing the early days of Instagram, Claire turned consistency and curation into a visual brand—one that foreshadowed her future role at Vogue France. Redefining French Vogue - Claire discusses what it means to inherit a legacy brand in a global digital age, and why feeling like an insider-outsider has helped her lead with authenticity. Realness in Luxury - From vintage-inspired minimalism to publishing knickers on a full page, Claire explores how today’s luxury is less about logos and more about time, space, and storytelling. Wellness as Editorial Philosophy - Claire opens up about her wellness routines, Hyrox training, and the upcoming Vogue France wellness retreat—redefining what modern leadership and luxury can look like. Creative Partnership with Alastair McKimm - Her longtime collaboration with Alastair, from i-D to Vogue, reflects a deep trust and shared vision—built on mutual respect and a belief in timeless French fashion codes. What’s Contemporary Now? - Claire answers the episode’s signature question: “Knowing yourself and following your instincts.” A fitting closing thought from someone who’s done exactly that throughout her career. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Sarah Harrelson, founder and editor-in-chief of CULTURED magazine, joins us to discuss what it means to engage the culture rather than simply cover it. From her early training as a competitive equestrian to her unexpected pivot from politics to publishing, Harrelson shares how discipline, curiosity, and an eye for the underdog have informed her editorial approach.We talk about the magazine’s evolution—from its roots in print to its growing influence across art, fashion, and design—and why events were always central to the brand’s DNA. She reflects on building access without elitism, maintaining integrity in a metrics-driven world, and what feels truly contemporary now.“People think I’m very social, but I’m actually most comfortable standing quietly in a room, observing. That’s how I learned—watching how people move, how power shifts, how conversations unfold. I think that shaped my sense of how to tell stories.” - Sarah Harrelson Episode Highlights: The Discipline of Beauty - Sarah’s early life as a competitive equestrian instilled a love of visual precision, self-discipline, and independence—elements that continue to shape her editorial eye. From Politics to Publishing - With a college focus on the politics of poverty, Sarah originally envisioned a career in public service. That political awareness now informs her coverage of art, fashion, and the underdog stories that drive CULTURED. Shyness as Superpower - Once a shy child, Sarah reveals how observing from the sidelines helped her understand power dynamics, refine her instincts, and eventually find her editorial voice. Why She Built CULTURED Around Events - Events have been a core pillar of CULTURED since its inception—intimate, thoughtful gatherings that bring creative disciplines together and foster unexpected connections. The Anti-Algorithmic Editorial Approach - Sarah is unapologetic about choosing stories based on meaning rather than metrics, spotlighting talent before the industry catches on—even if it means fewer clicks. The Art of Cross-Pollination - Long before it became standard, Sarah was curating spaces where fashion designers, artists, architects, and tech figures could genuinely connect—not network, but engage. Rejecting Editorial Rigidity - In response to legacy media’s narrow guidelines, Sarah launched CULTURED with a rebellious spirit—including two blank pages in the first issue to make a statement about creative freedom. The Power of Staying Grounded - With three kids and a close-knit personal circle, Sarah prioritizes time, presence, and humility. “I don't like cliques,” she says. “I'm interested in being inclusive.” Cultured VIP & Democratizing Access - Through the CULTURED VIP program, she’s opening doors to readers who don’t always have access—offering things like museum tours, studio visits, and meaningful cultural experiences. What’s Contemporary Now? - For Sarah, contemporaneity isn’t about what’s trending—it’s about authenticity, curiosity, and kindness. A genuine lens, she says, is the most powerful tool any cultural voice can have. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Few figures have shaped fashion’s visual language like Marie-Amélie Sauvé. From her formative years at French Vogue to her lasting collaborations with Nicolas Ghesquière, she has navigated an industry that thrives on change while staying true to her creative convictions.In this episode, Sauvé reflects on the golden era of editorial freedom, the founding of her own magazine, Mastermind, and why true innovation demands risk. She also shares how yoga sharpens her creative discipline, why she gravitates toward brands in need of reinvention, and what she believes is fashion’s biggest challenge today.A rare glimpse into the mind of one of the industry's most influential yet elusive figures."Mastermind isn’t just about fashion. It’s about cinema, architecture, politics—because if you only look at fashion, you miss the bigger picture." - Marie-Amélie SauvéEpisode Highlights: Growing up with fashion in France – Fashion was as much a part of daily life as literature and gastronomy in her upbringing, shaping her early perspective. Landing an internship at French Vogue – Her mother’s love for fashion led to an opportunity at Vogue Paris, where she was first exposed to industry legends like André Leon Talley, Helmut Newton, and Guy Bourdin. The golden era of French Vogue – Describes the unparalleled creative freedom of the magazine at the time, where editors and photographers could push boundaries without advertiser interference. Why she left Vogue to go freelance – She wanted a deeper understanding of how clothes were made and how designers shaped the industry, rather than just styling full looks in editorials. How yoga shapes her creative process – She practices Iyengar yoga daily, valuing its emphasis on precision and discipline, which mirrors her approach to fashion and creative direction. Why she created Mastermind – She wanted a magazine that balanced fashion with architecture, politics, cinema, and philosophy, giving equal weight to journalism and imagery. The longstanding creative relationship with Nicolas Ghesquière – She and Nicolas "grew up together" in the industry, sharing an obsession with research, reinvention, and pushing creative boundaries. Why true innovation requires risk – She reflects on how the most memorable fashion moments come from pushing boundaries, rather than playing it safe within industry expectations. Fashion’s democratic shift – Acknowledges that while fashion is now more accessible, standing out requires an even stronger creative perspective and sense of individuality. What’s contemporary now? – Time. In an era of constant acceleration, she believes the most valuable thing is having enough time to slow down, focus, and create with intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Fashion thrives on newness but resists change, celebrates young designers yet makes survival nearly impossible. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder of 1Granary, knows this contradiction well. What began as a student-run blog at Central Saint Martins has become one of the industry’s most unfiltered voices, exposing the gaps between talent, opportunity, and success.In this episode, Kuryshchuk unpacks why magazine editors are shifting to brand consulting, how ageism shapes studio culture, and why true innovation isn’t about aesthetics but structure, sustainability, and survival. With characteristic candor, she lays bare fashion’s broken pipeline, the illusion of overnight success, and what it actually takes to build a lasting career today."What’s contemporary now? Long-term thinking. Creating with intention. The industry is obsessed with speed, but the future belongs to those who build for longevity." - Olya KuryshchukEpisode Highlights: The Birth of 1Granary – What started as a student project at Central Saint Martins became a global fashion education platform. The Reality of Fashion Education – A degree from a top school doesn’t guarantee success—80% of graduates don’t find jobs in the industry. Acting as a Designer Union – 1Granary advocates for young designers, exposing industry flaws and providing career guidance. The Power of Community – Success in fashion isn’t just about talent; strategic relationships and collaborations shape careers. Why Editors Are Moving to Brand Consulting – Traditional media salaries are low, while brands offer better pay and creative freedom. Ageism in Fashion – Studios are filled with designers under 30, and career paths for women over 40 are nearly nonexistent. The Industry’s Broken Pipeline – Young designers either join big brands or struggle to launch their own—a middle path is missing. The Harsh Truth About Fashion’s Business Model – Many emerging designers can’t sustain their brands, despite industry hype. Fashion’s Double Standard on Sustainability – Big brands have the power to create real change, but it’s indie designers who often lead the charge. What’s Contemporary Now? – Long-term thinking—in an industry obsessed with speed, real impact comes from sustainability and intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

For years, celebrity stylists were seen as separate from those consulting for brands and shaping fashion imagery. But the red carpet, like concerts and live performances, is its own battleground - one where fashion meets spectacle and commands cultural attention.Today, with "earned media value" driving the industry, the role of the celebrity stylist has become central, crafting moments that break through the algorithmic noise and recall an era when culture felt more unified. Few understand this better than Jahleel Weaver, whose work with Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Taylor Russell has positioned him as a defining force at the intersection of fashion, music, and celebrity.In this episode, we move beyond the spectacle to discuss why the work matters more than how it’s received, the power of staying present, and the creative force of surprise. For Weaver, influence is a byproduct, not the goal."Love doing this podcast stuff, but you know, in general, I would love for the work to just speak for itself and not have to say anything." - Jahleel WeaverEpisode Highlights: From Maryland to the Global Stage – Jahleel Weaver reflects on being the first American-born member of his Panamanian-Jamaican family, growing up without creative role models, and how music, film, and fashion shaped his path. The Icons That Shaped His Eye – Madonna’s reinvention, Tom Ford’s world-building, and hip-hop’s lyrical name-dropping all played a role in defining Weaver’s early understanding of style and cultural impact. The Leap Into Styling – A post-recession moment of clarity led him to take styling seriously, which led to an introduction to Mel Ottenberg—a meeting that would change everything. Building Rihanna’s Visual Legacy – Since 2011, Weaver has been a key force behind Rihanna’s evolving image, from styling to creative direction, launching Fenty Corp, and ultimately leading to his role as deputy creative director at LVMH’s Fenty Maison. The Art of Storytelling Through Style – The difference between styling an individual and shaping an entire brand’s creative vision, and why research is at the heart of it all. Mistakes, Learning, and the Internet’s Watchful Eye – Why failure is essential to growth, even in an era where everything is recorded, and how staying true to his instincts became a guiding principle. Music and Fashion: A Lifelong Dialogue – Hip-hop was his first introduction to luxury fashion, serving as both a cultural educator and a gateway to brands that would later become part of his work. Launching His Own Studio – After a decade with Rihanna, Weaver added a new role, creating a studio where he could expand his creative vision across music, film, and fashion. Has Fashion Become Too Popular for Its Own Good? – Weaver discusses how fashion’s explosion in accessibility has blurred the line between admiration and true passion for the industry. What is Contemporary Now? – For Weaver, it’s about being fully present. With so much focus on nostalgia and the future, he sees contemporaneity as fully inhabiting the now. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The inevitability of change is something we can either fear or embrace with insatiable curiosity, and one of them, of course, yields far better results than the other.Today's guest is a serial entrepreneur and self-described "forever intern" who co-founded Basic.Space, which later acquired Design Miami, where he now serves as chairman. Up next is Design.Space, a project that explores the power of quality curation within an IRL/URL retail experience while bringing together the worlds of design, art, and fashion.In a culture where the concept of community has been co-opted by big business and marketing teams, Jesse Lee shares a different approach that, for this conversation, we’ll call a club. Whether or not you're familiar with the burgeoning world of design and its evolving role in communicating status the way a highly coveted watch or luxury fashion once did, Jesse’s mindset is one to emulate. His perspective is especially valuable for those seeking their own point of convergence where passion and purpose meet in a way that is both meaningful and profitable."It's not just about the work ethic, but also about wanting to learn. If it wasn't for that mindset, I don't think I'd be able to learn from music, fashion, technology, art, design, culinary—whatever it is. That's sort of been the mantra since day one." - Jesse Lee Design.Space will showcase a curated selection of archival and contemporary pieces from top artists, designers, galleries, and brands, including:Alexander May, AMEN, Archived, Avery Wheless, Brett Robinson, Brian Thoreen, Cadogan Tate, David Kelley, Enorme, Ettore Sottsass, Found Objects, George Davies, GUFRAM, Guido, Jahlil Nzinga, Jean Pigozzi, Jeffrey Deitch, Jess Hannah, Jeaux de Peau by Purienne, Justin Reed, Keiko Moriuchi, Laura Sattin, Leyla Fisher, Lily Clark, Marcin Rusak, Marquel Williams, Marta, Max Lamb, Memphis, Meritalia, Michelle Jane Lee, niceworkshop, Nick Thomm, Nike, NM3, NO GA, Paulin Paulin Paulin, Period Correct, Puck, Raiffe Glass, Roham Shamekh, Sabine Marcelis, Sam Klemick, Same Old/BASA Vintage, Sasha December, Spaceless Gallery, Stephanie Ketty, Stickymonger, Studio Ker, The Future Perfect, The Pink Lemonade, Tokio., Tristan Marsh, Tsu Lange Yor, USM, Verre d'Onge, Wexler Gallery, Willo Perron, Yung Jake & more to be announced soon.Episode Highlights: Jesse Lee’s Journey from Intern to Industry Leader – How his relentless curiosity and willingness to do any job led to his success in music, fashion, and design. The Birth of Basic.Space – Why Jesse created Basic.Space as a curated platform for creatives, and how it evolved into an ecosystem connecting sellers, collectors, and brands. The Acquisition of Design Miami – The strategic move behind Basic.Space acquiring Design Miami, and how the two entities complement each other. The Concept Behind Design.Space – How Jesse is bridging digital and physical retail by creating a hybrid shopping experience that blends the best of Basic.Space and Design Miami. The Shift from Fashion to Design – Why luxury consumers are now more interested in furniture, objects, and design than traditional status-driven fashion. The Strategy Behind Invitation-Only Shopping – Why Basic.Space is moving to a membership-based model and limiting access to its most engaged customers. Curation as the Key to Modern Luxury – How brands and platforms must focus on thoughtful selection rather than mass availability to stay relevant. The Role of Physical Events in a Digital World – Why Jesse believes creating real-world moments is critical, and how Design.Space will redefine the shopping experience. The Importance of Intersectionality in Business – Jesse’s belief that success comes from mastering multiple industries—fashion, music, technology, art, and design—rather than specializing in just one. Why Push Marketing Is Over – Jesse’s philosophy that the best brands don’t chase customers but create experiences that naturally pull the right people in. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We often bring up the idea of humanity on this show, exploring the anthropology of it all with the creative industry as our backdrop. When sitting down to speak with the absolutely lovely Francesca Burns about her journey - and all of the people, places, and things that have shaped it - we have the opportunity to go beyond the obvious and touch on the human interest of it all. From her early days with Kylie Minogue, the prolific career she's enjoyed working across titles and brands like i-D, British Vogue, Italian Vogue, Self Service, Beyond Noise, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Nensi Dojaka and her own magazine, PRINT, Burns takes us on an even more holistic journey in this conversation as we move past the obvious benchmarks and begin to explore possibility through the unlimited power source that is inspiration."You can't bend and shape yourself to meet other people's expectations. It's absolutely impossible. And what each of us has is completely unique to us. How we see the world is completely unique to us. I think there's no limit to what we can do if we're inspired."- Fran BurnsEpisode Highlights: Fran’s career in fashion first began in music when she assisted the creative director for Kylie Minogue.  Finding her way into the fashion side more officially, Fran started working in PR, where she discovered that styling and magazines were what really lit her up. Prolific stylists such as Joe McKenna, Alex White, and Jonathan Kaye were among those Fran assisted as she came up in the industry. After deciding that the format of most magazines felt ripe for change, Fran, along with her friend and collaborator Christopher Simmonds, decided it was time to start their own project, PRINT. Emphasizing the importance of viewing the necessary changes around sustainability as an evolution rather than a revolution, Fran reminds us to focus on progress rather than perfection as we all work together to achieve lasting and meaningful change. Deciding to study nutrition, Fran discovered the holistic approach to life as something that went beyond personal routines and lifestyle choices, eventually qualifying as a transformational coach. Refusing to be relegated to any one role, Fran is a stylist, consultant, creative director, publisher, and mentor, viewing this variety of creative outputs as an integral part of who she is. Working with both individuals and brand clients, Fran’s coaching has provided her with a way to bridge the gap between where we are and where we want to go, helping people realize they have the capacity to take the necessary steps toward achieving their goals. Fran points out that it’s impossible to shape and bend ourselves to the expectations of others, suggesting instead that we should lean into whatever lights us up, even if it’s outside of the industry we’ve chosen. If it’s feeding us, it’s also opening up our point of view even more. Leaving us with a simple yet powerful message, Fran believes that there is no limit to what we can do as long as we are inspired. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices