Bande à part

We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

We talk about the fascinating exhibition ‘Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer’ at the Barbican Art Gallery, London. See links below. Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer, Barbican Art Gallery, London (7 October 2020-3 January 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2020/event/michael-clark-cosmic-dancer Sarah Crompton, Cosmic Dancer (2020): https://sites.barbican.org.uk/introducingmichaelclark/ Charles Atlas (director), Hail the New Puritan (1986): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0410057/ and http://www.eai.org/titles/hail-the-new-puritan Isabella Burley, Cult VIP: Rachel Auburn, Dazed Digital (5 February 2013): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15548/1/cult-vip-rachel-auburn Leigh Bowery on The Clothes Show (1988): https://youtu.be/om0MrCOXPcE Al Mulhall, Fashion Archive: Bodymap, Dazed (16 December 2009): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/6120/1/fashion-archive-bodymap Kar-Wai Wong (director), William Chang (costume design), In the Mood for Love (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118694/ Noël Coward: Art & Style, Guildhall Art Gallery (2020-2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward Adam & The Ants, Prince Charming (1981): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p__WmyAE3g Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (25 September 2010 – 9 January 2011): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/diaghilev-and-the-ballets-russes Designing Dreams: A Celebration of Leon Bakst, Villa Sauber, Monaco (23 October 2016 – 15 January 2017): https://tinyurl.com/hudos65

We talk about a conversation organised by Autograph and bimi, the Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image, between Karen Alexander and Terri Simone Francis about her forthcoming book on Josephine Baker. See links below. Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception (Routledge , first published 1945): https://www.routledge.com/Phenomenology-of-Perception/Merleau-Ponty/p/book/9780415834339 bimi, Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image blog: http://blogs.bbk.ac.uk/bimi/about/ Autograph: Exploring Josephine Baker (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker Terri Simone Francis, Josephine Baker's Cinematic Prism (Indiana University Press 2021): https://iupress.org/9780253052179/josephine-bakers-cinematic-prism/ Joséphine Baker, Le sel de la semaine (18 mars 1968): https://ici.radio-canada.ca/info/videos/media-8114314/josephine-baker-au-sel-semaine Jack Mangan interviews Josephine Baker aboard the SS Liberté (3 October 1950): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO1YLXqxTU Josephine Baker, Rehearsal for a performance at Olympia, Paris (1964): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdQ8p9U3Iw0

We discuss Pan & the Dream magazine’s new ghostly issue and wonder about the significance of hands in understanding portraits. See links below. Dub London: Bassline of a City, Museum of London (to 31 January 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/dub-london Jilke Golbach, Dub Reggae Icons of London, Museum of London (29 July 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/dub-reggae-icons-london Pan & the Dream: https://www.panandthedream.com/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Drapery, Fashion, Ghosts’ and ‘Jake Wood-Evans: Between Two Worlds’, Pan &the Dream, Issue 4: Pan’s ghost Stories (2020): https://www.panandthedream.com/products/pans-ghost-stories-issue-4 M.R. James, ‘”Oh, Whistle, and I'll Come to You, My Lad”’, Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1904): https://gutenberg.ca/ebooks/jamesmr-ohwhistle/jamesmr-ohwhistle-00-h.html Jake Wood-Evans: https://www.jakewoodevans.com/ Deborah Turbeville: https://www.instagram.com/deborah_turbeville/ Benoit Delhomme: https://www.instagram.com/benoitdelhomme Wolfgang Tillmans, Faltenwurf (Cubitt Edition) (2000): https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/tillmans-faltenwurf-cubitt-edition-p78405 Robert Howlett, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, National Portrait Galler (1857): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00867/Isambard-Kingdom-Brunel London Stereoscopic Company, Peter Jackson (1889): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Jackson_(boxer)#/media/File:Peter_Jackson_boxer_1889.jpg Germaine Krull, Jean Cocteau, Museum of Modern Art (1929): https://www.moma.org/collection/works/51344 Neil Kenlock, Olive Morris, National Portrait Gallery (1973): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw272120/Olive-Morris Fur coat, Museum of London (c. 1945): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82495.html James van der Zee, Lady with fur jacket, Howard Greenberg Gallery (1935): http://www.howardgreenberg.com/artists/james-van-der-zee

We discuss the V&A’s ‘Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk’ exhibition and the varied meanings of this fascinating garment. See links below. Collina Strada: https://collinastrada.com/ Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (2006): https://www.hodder.co.uk/titles/ian-kelly/beau-brummell/9780340836996/ Duro Olowu: https://www.duroolowu.com/ Arles – Les Rencontres de la Photographie: https://www.rencontres-arles.com/en Julien Faure: https://www.instagram.com/julienfaure1864/ Les choses de Paul Poiret / vues par Georges Lepape (1911): https://www.vmfa.museum/piction/108734640-160584885/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, Victoria & Albert Museum (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk Storey Studio (exhibition designers): https://www.storeystudio.com/project/va/kimono-kyoto-catwalk-exhibition Curator Tour led by Anna Jackson, Keeper of the Asian Department: https://youtu.be/oEf0iFNTVGw https://youtu.be/hG6UVZexmc8 https://youtu.be/dvyC_pqYhvw https://youtu.be/oz1AzscxHjk https://youtu.be/OSgNdkcg9To Netsuke & Inro, V&A: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/n/netsuke-inro/ Sheila Cliffe, The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present (Bloomsbury 2020): https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/the-social-life-of-kimono-9781350211186/ Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion (Routledge 2003): https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/9780203409428 Kimonos in the Khalili Collections: https://www.khalilicollections.org/all-collections/japanese-kimono/ Kitsuke: How to wear kimono (August 2017): https://youtu.be/gVdwYM75oLI Wasoukan, How to wear a kimono (September 2020): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZyw9a9Ouji03DOIT2SlTUyrDJbKP7hBL Ome Kimono Museum, Tokyo: http://www.omekimono.jp/

We discuss the Wide Awakes - their origins as an Abolitionist movement supporting Lincoln’s 1860 election campaign, and their revival in 2020 as a cape-clad artist network that believes in “joy as resistance “. See links below. Ruth Barnes, Joanne B. Eicher, Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning (first published in 1992): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/dress-and-gender-9780854968657/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, V&A, London (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk Jessica Mitford, Hons and Rebels (first published in 1960): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/jessica-mitford/hons-and-rebels/9781474605373/ Nancy Mitford, Love in a Cold Climate (first published in 1949): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/282/2828/love-in-a-cold-climate/9780241974698.html Gerda Taro: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/objects/militiawoman-training-on-the-beach-near-barcelona and https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/gerda-taro?all/all/all/all/0 Jon Grinspan, ‘”Young Men for War”: The Wide Awakes and Lincoln’s 1860 Presidential Campaign’, Journal of American History, 96 (Sept. 2009): http://archive.oah.org/special-issues/lincoln/contents/grinspan.html ‘Connecticut Wide-Awakes’, Connecticut Historical Society (6 January 2011): https://chs.org/2011/01/connecticut-wide-awakes/ 2020 Wideawakes: https://wideawakes.com/ and https://www.instagram.com/wideawakes/ and https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wide-awakes/the-wide-awakes For Freedoms: https://forfreedoms.org/ Hank Willis Thomas: https://www.instagram.com/hankwillisthomas/ and https://www.hankwillisthomas.com/ Wildcat Ebony Brown: https://www.instagram.com/wildcatebonybrown/ Anya Ayoung Chee: https://www.anyaayoungchee.com/ and https://www.togetherwi.org/ Eric Gottesman: https://ericgottesman.net/ Coby Kennedy: https://www.cobykennedystudio.com/ Kambui Olujimi: https://kambuiolujimi.com/ Jose Parla: https://www.instagram.com/joseparla/ Matt Dellinger, ‘A Civil War Political Movement Reawakens — Complete With Capes’, New York Times (15 September 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/15/style/wide-awakes-civil-war-activists.html Rebecca Jamieson, ‘Without Joy, Nothing is Sustainable: The Artist First-Responders Waking Up Democracy with Play, Billboards, and Capes’, Pioneer Works (10 February 2020): https://pioneerworks.org/broadcast/for-freedoms-jamieson/ Jammal Lemy, ‘Wide Awakes’, Dazed (15 September 2020): https://www.dazeddigital.com/read-up-act-up-autumn-2020/article/50410/1/read-up-act-up-autumn-2020-wide-awakes-guest-edit Rujeko Hockley, ‘Joy as Resistance: Artist collective the Wide Awakes takes NYC this weekend. Why we’re marching’, New York Vulture (2 October 2020): https://www.vulture.com/2020/10/wide-awakes-march-nyc.html Brooke Bobb, ‘The Wide Awakes Are the Civil War–Era Activist Group Making a Comeback in Bold, Joyful Style’, Vogue (2 October 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/wide-awakes-capes

We discuss Rihanna’s approach to lingerie and the amazing choreography and body positivity on display at the Savage x Fenty vol. 2 show. See links below. Gucci’s Rock Star Live campaign: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/fall-winter-2020-gucci-tailoring-shoppable Biggy Pop: https://www.instagram.com/biggypop/ Britta Lokting, ‘The Pied Piper of Parrots’, New York Times (17 January 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/17/nyregion/pet-parrot-trainer.html Savage X Fenty Show: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Savage-X-Fenty-Show/dp/B07XFK153C https://www.instagram.com/savagexfenty/ Tom Huddleston, ‘Where to begin with Busby Berkeley’, BFI (28 October 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-busby-berkeley

We talk about the preview event of the online conference Fashion at the Periphery organised by the Chicago Fashion Lyceum where Paul & Kayla Owen and Amanda Harth talked about streetwear in Liverpool and Chicago, respectively. See links below. Otto Preminger (director), Hope Bryce and May Walding (costume), Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Chicago Fashion Lyceum: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/ Fashion at the Periphery 2020: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/schedule/ Paul & Kayla Owen: owenstudio.co.uk Sole Magazine: https://www.instagram.com/sole_magazine/ Laura Davis, ‘Adidas unveils Kirkdale trainers at Laces Out! festival’, Liverpool Echo (11 September 2015): https://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/whats-on/whats-on-news/adidas-unveils-kirkdale-trainers-laces-10034994 Runwayaddicts: https://www.runwayaddicts.co/ Matt Harvey, ‘The Museum of Streetwear enshrines young Chicago designers (for a weekend)’, Chicago Reader (24 July 2019): https://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/museum-of-streetwear-runwayaddicts/Content?oid=71911322 Ron Louis: https://www.instagram.com/ron_louis/ and ‘Ron Louis on His Custom Glacier Force 1 High’s, Virgil Abloh and Ending the Phera Brand’, iLLANOiZe (24 May 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkzlZjDKsLg Justin Mensinger: https://justinmensinger.com/ PerryCo. Shoes by Brittney Perry: https://perrycoshoes.com/

We talk about two pioneering women: the first female filmmaker Alice Guy-Blaché and the writer, broadcaster, collector, costume designer, dress historian and curator Doris Langley Moore. See links below. Pamela B. Green (director), Be Natural: The Untold Story of Alice Guy-Blaché (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3146022/ Marquise Lepage (director), Le Jardin oublié: La vie et l’oeuvre d’Alice Guy Blaché (1996): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113692/ and https://youtu.be/zli0mysaUeU René Boca, ‘Nouvelles Brèves de la Cité: Alice Guy-Blaché, la 1re femme metteur en scene’, La Cité (Paris 1954): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k9783739x/f25.image Men, Women and Clothes (1957): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1375606/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00gp19b (sadly currently not available on this platform) Men, Women and Clothes (1957) on YouTube: https://youtu.be/6NA_opCjczE - How Fashions Come and Go https://youtu.be/_n-BgDm55Uk – Sense and Nonsense in Fashion https://youtu.be/qbG33X2j1L0 - Fashions in Faces and Figures https://youtu.be/UGBsmyfSAjw - Formal Clothes https://youtu.be/Hz-BXo7OjKY - Informal Clothes https://youtu.be/j_ti9kDpzjo - Facing the Elements Doris Langley Moore, ‘The Beginning of the Collection’, Costume, no. 4, supplement 1 (April 1970): https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1970.4.Supplement-1.2 Penelope Byrde, ‘Doris Langley Moore, 1902-1989’, Costume no. 24 (1990): https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1990.24.1.149 Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (1899) John Huston (director), Doris Langley Moore (costume design), The African Queen (1951): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0043265/ Roger White, ‘Stella Mary Newton’, The Guardian (26 May 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/may/26/guardianobituaries.books

Sparked off by a 1975 book about the dress collection then at Castle Howard, we talk about dressing up in historic clothes and the difficulties with trying to recreate the past. See links below. Present & Correct, Desk trolley: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/products/oak-desk-trolley Naruhito (photographer), Costume at Castle Howard (Castle Howard Estate, 1975): https://www.worldcat.org/title/costume-at-castle-howard/oclc/2543171/editions Castle Howard, Sale, Sotheby’s (7 October 2003): https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2003/castle-howard-w03843/lot.1.html The Gallery of English Costume: Picture Books (1949-1977): https://tinyurl.com/yxd85mqu Cecil Smith, Guide to the English Costumes Presented by Messrs. Harrods Ltd (V&A 1913): https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.b000993584&view=1up&seq=7 Christina Broom, The Historical Pageant of the Women's Coronation Procession (17 June 1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/437264.html, also: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/437263.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/455275.html Beatrice Behlen, A fashion for women’s suffrage, Museum of London – Discover (27 April 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/fashion-womens-suffrage