Bande à part

We talk about Alison Ellwood’s documentary about The Go-Go’s and the band members’ fabulous clothes, hair and make-up. See links below. Alison Ellwood (director), The Go-Go’s (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11394468/ The Go-Go’s (2020) Official Trailer, Showtime Documentary Film (1 July 2020): https://youtu.be/GsiRfL11I08 Variety, ‘The Go-Go’s dive into their history in new documentary at Sundance’ (28 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHS5gdKSUcY Keaton Bell, ‘How the Go-Go’s Found Their Beat: An Oral History’, Vogue (4 August 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/go-gos-40th-anniversary-beauty-and-the-beat-oral-history-belinda-carlisle The Go-Go’s – We Got The Beat: https://youtu.be/f55KlPe81Yw The Go-Go’s – Vacation: https://youtu.be/2RHTiXvELNg The Go-Go’s – Turn To You: https://youtu.be/gc-WHZ0AH50 The Go-Go’s – Our Lips Are Sealed: https://youtu.be/r3kQlzOi27M Fun Boy Three, Our Lips Are Sealed (1983, uploaded 13 July 2017): https://youtu.be/QhVhK-VVeXo John Waters (director), Van Smith (costume design), Christine Mason (key hair stylist), Hairspray (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0095270/ ‘Automatic Mascara’, cosmetics and skin: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/ded/automatic-mascara.php

We talk about Kent State University Museum’s inspiring exhibition ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’. See links below. Kent State University Museum: https://www.instagram.com/ksumuseum/ Jean L. Druesedow: https://www.kent.edu/museum/profile/jean-l-druesedow Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman papers, Kent State University Libraries: https://www.library.kent.edu/special-collections-and-archives/shannon-rodgers-and-jerry-silverman-papers ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’, Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio (2 February – 19 December 2021): https://www.kent.edu/museum/event/stitched-regional-dress-across-europe KSU Museum, ‘Fashion Focus: Stitched Regional Dress across Europe’, YouTube (5 February 2021): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwwT-abxCOQ Solveig Strand, ‘The Norwegian Bunad: Peasant Dress, Embroidered Costume and National Symbol’, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 2, Issue 3 (Autumn 2018): https://dresshistorians.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/The-Journal-of-Dress-History-Volume-2-Issue-3-Autumn-2018.pdf

We talk about the challenges of packing museum objects and Poiret’s and Drecoll’s dresses for Jean Epstein’s 1925 film ‘Le Double Amour’. See links below. How to store a wedding dress, Museum of London (16 September 2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHcQug5ZJd4 Jean Epstein (director); Drecoll, Paul Poiret (dresses for Nathalie Lissenko); Pierre Kéfer (décors, executed by Lazare Meerson), Le Double Amour (1925): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0237181/ Le Double Amour on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48362-le-double-amour-jean-epstein-1925/ Cycle Jean Epstein – Le Double Amour, DVD Classik (not dated): https://www.dvdclassik.com/critique/le-double-amour-epstein Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Stephen Ongpin Fine Art: https://www.stephenongpin.com/object/805553/0/bernard-boutet-de-monvel-paris-1884; also: https://www.instagram.com/boutet.de.monvel/ Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Textile design by Paul Poiret for Martine, Metropolitan Museum of Art (c. 1919): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/487282 Printed cotton, designed by Francis Jourdain, made by Cornille (c. 1925), Lot 233, ‘Étoffes & Costumes Anciens – Papiers Peints’, Couteau-Bégarie & Associés, Paris, Auction (19 February 2021): https://www.coutaubegarie.com/lot/107236/14310881

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below. Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

We discuss gender and race relations and the use of clothes in Ann Petry’s 1946 novel The Street. See links below. Ann Petry, The Street (Virago 2019, first published 1946): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-street/9780349012926/ Ann Petry, The Narrows (Virago 2020, first published 1953): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-narrows/9780349013398/ Biographical information for Ann Petry at New York Public Library: http://archives.nypl.org/scm/24832#overview Tayari Jones, ‘In praise of Ann Petry’, The New York Times (10 November 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/10/books/review/in-praise-of-ann-petry.html Tayari Jones, ‘The Street: the 1940s African American thriller that became a huge bestseller’, The Guardian (14 December 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/dec/14/the-street-the-1940s-african-american-thriller-that-became-a-huge-bestseller Heather J. Hicks, ‘Rethinking Realism in Ann Petry’s “The Street”, Melus. Vol. 27, No. 4 (Winter 2002): https://www.jstor.org/stable/3250621 Heather J. Hicks, "This Strange Communion": Surveillance and Spectatorship in Ann Petry's "The Street", African American Review, vol. 37, no. 1 (Spring 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1512357 All-American news IV (1945), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2018600204/ One tenth of a nation. The Arts (1954), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2020600724/

Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.com/ Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, Sheila Heti, Women in Clothes (2014): www.penguin.co.uk/books/196157/women-in-clothes/9781846148354.html Visible Mending: https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/ Boro: The Fabric of Life: https://www.boisbuchet.org/exhibitions/boro-the-fabric-of-life/ Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY Robert J. Flaherty, Nanook of the North (1922): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013427/ Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8 Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (costume design), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/

We unexpectedly become fascinated with clowns and their make-up, including Joseph Grimaldi. See links below. Leichner Kosmetik: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/leichner.php Dave Fagundes and Aaron Perzanowski, The fascinating reason why clowns paint their faces on eggs, BBC Future (6 December 2017): https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20171206-the-fascinating-reason-why-clowns-paint-their-faces-on-eggs Costume worn by Joseph Grimaldi (1800-1823), Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/794735.html Carold Reed (director), Veniero Colasanti (costume design), Trapeze (1956): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0049875/ Mode Circus Knie, Textilmuseum St. Gallen (7 March 2019 – 19 January 2020): https://www.textilmuseum.ch/modecircus/ Jean-Antoine Watteau, ‘Pierrot, formerly known as Gilles’ (c. 1718-19), Musée du Louvre, Paris: https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/pierrot-formerly-known-gilles Playbill for The Great United Circus Alhambra Palace (1858), Victoria & Albert Museum: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1462318/the-great-united-states-circus-playbill-horner/ National Fairground and Circus Archive, The University of Sheffield: https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/nfca

We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below. Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/ Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/ Well, fame costs ....: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tze87LfeOtY Edmond T. Gréville (director), Gaston, Philippe and Zanel (costume design), Princesse Tam-Tam (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026891/ Exploring Josephine Baker, Autograph (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker George Cukor (director), Cecil Beaton and Michael Neuwirth (costume design), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan, Jacqueline Durran and Sinéad Kidao (costume design on different episodes), Small Axe (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3464896/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episodes/p08vxt33/small-axe Supertone Records: http://www.supertonerecords.co.uk/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan and Jacqueline Durran (costume design), Lovers Rock (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10551102/ Laura U. Marks, The Skin of the Film: Intercultural Cinema, Embodiment, and the Senses (Duke University Press 2000): https://www.sfu.ca/~lmarks/skin/skin.html Lauren Cochrane, ‘Well put together’: the style legacy of lovers rock’, The Guardian online (20 November 2020): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/nov/20/well-put-together-the-style-legacy-of-lovers-rock K. Austin Collins, ‘The Dance Floor Is Always at the Center of Steve McQueen’s “Lovers Rock”’, Rolling Stone (28 November 2020): https://www.rollingstone.com/movies/movie-reviews/lovers-rock-steve-mcqueen-small-axe-1090869/ Wales Bonner, Lovers Rock collection (AW20): https://walesbonner.net/blogs/lovers-rock-aw20 John Goto, Lovers’ Rock (1977): http://www.johngoto.org.uk/Lovers_Rock/index.htm#45

We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below. Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Kleptomania’, Signs, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1989): https://www.freud.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Abelson-The-Invention-of-Kleptomania.pdf

We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below. Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/ Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1 Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169 Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990, V&A (2012): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/postmodernism-style-and-subversion-1970-90-hardback-110121.html ‘Helmut Newton: High Gloss’, Hamiltons, London (21 October 2020 - 8 January 2021): https://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/exhibitions/helmut-newton-high-gloss/overview/ Fashion Interpretations, A symposium: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/events/