We discuss the significance of jeans in the film I,Tonya, and interpreting Claire McCardell’s Monastic dress. I,Tonya (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5580036/ Axel Yvon on Marithé + François Girbaud (2018): https://www.bonnegueule.fr/marithe-francois-girbaud-histoire-deux-techniciens-mode/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai, The social life of things, CUP 1986: http://socrates.acadiau.ca/courses/engl/rcunningham/ts2012/texts/intro/Kopytoff-Cultural_Biography.pdf Jules David Prown, 'The Truth of Material Culture: History or Fiction?', in Steven Lubar and W. David Kingery, History from Things, Smithsonian Institution Press 1993, pp. 1-19 Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/ https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84055 Rebecca Arnold, American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York, I.B. Tauris 2008: http://www.ibtauris.com/Books/Society--social-sciences/Society--culture-general/Cultural-studies/American-Look-Fashion-and-the-Image-of-Women-in-1930s-and-1940s-New-York

We discuss 18th century pleasure gardens and displaying historic fashions, and consider Gordon Parks’ fashion and documentary photographs. Miles, Ellie, 'A Museum of Everything: Making the Pleasure Gardens inside the Museum of London', The London Journal, vol. 38, no. 2 (July 2013), pp. 151-165 The Gordon Parks Foundation: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/ Roth, Lorna, ‘Looking at Shirley, The Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, & Cognitive Equity’, Canadian Journal of Communication, vol. 34 (2009), pp. 111-36 Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/

We discuss Victor Stiebel’s tips for women, backstage beauty and the new Obama portraits. LCF Victor Stiebel Archive: https://vads.ac.uk/collections/LCFVS.html Beauty Instagrams: @patmcgrathreal @beautyisboring_ @violette_fr @morgane_martini @enywhitehead Doreen St. Félix on Amy Sherald's Michelle Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-mystery-of-amy-sheralds-portrait-of-michelle-obama Vinson Cunningham on Kehinde Wiley's Barrack Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-shifting-perspective-in-kehinde-wileys-portrait-of-barack-obama

We discuss the upcoming Conference on fashion and passing, and Raf Simons' references to Christiane F. in his latest collection. Passing: Fashion in American Cities conference, 5 May 2018, Courtauld Institute of Art, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Nella Larsen: http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/cvvpw/gallery/larsen.html Georg Simmel, Metropolis and Mental Life (1903/1950): http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/content/bpl_images/content_store/sample_chapter/0631225137/bridge.pdf Fatberg at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/fatberg Raf Simons, Fall 2018 collection: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/raf-simons Patrik Sandberg on Raf Simons' show for Dazed (8/2/18): http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38937/1/last-nights-raf-simons-aw18-new-york-show-was-all-about-drugs

We discuss Phantom Thread and a visit to the V&A's stores to see haute couture. Phantom Thread official site: http://focusfeatures.com/phantom-thread Stephanie Zacharek's review for Time (21/12/2017): http://time.com/5075162/phantom-thread-movie-review/ Maytime in Mayfair (1949): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0041647/ Extract from Making Fashion (1938): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA Callot Soeurs, 1922, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O140706/afternoon-dress-callot-soeurs/ Madeleine Vionnet, 1937, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O319608/dress-vionnet-madeleine/ Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O15665/the-circus-collection-evening-ensemble-elsa-schiaparelli/ Jacques Fath, 1949, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O120382/dress-with-swag-fath-jacques/ Christian Dior, 1947/55, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O75379/bar-skirt-suit-dior-christian/

We discuss why we think the latest Valentino haute couture collection was designed to be drawn and the women photographers that captured Weimar fashions. Valentino Spring 2018 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/valentino#review Richard Haines Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/?hl=en Richard Brody on People On Sunday (1930): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/movie-week-people-sunday Frieda Riess or Die Riess: http://www.dasverborgenemuseum.de/exhibits/exhibit/die-riess-44-en Yva: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/20704/1/yva-shattered-vision Rudolf Schlichter: http://www.gseart.com/Artists-Gallery/Schlichter-Rudolf/Schlichter-Rudolf-Biography.php Mila Ganeva - Women in Weimar Fashion (2008: https://boydellandbrewer.com/women-in-weimar-fashion.html

We discuss Kim Jones’ finale at Louis Vuitton, the proliferation of plastic and nylon raincoats in the menswear shows, and Bonnie Cashin’s inventive bag designs. Wear and Tear by Tracy Tynan: http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Wear-and-Tear/Tracy-Tynan/9781501123696 Kim Jones Instagram: @mrkimjones Dries Van Noten instagram: @driesvannoten See all the shows on Vogue’s Runway App bonniecashin.org

We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017). The Deuce (2017) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/ Anna Terrazas hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/ Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/ The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/ Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/ https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes

We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below. Visible Mending https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8