
Bande à part
Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca is a fashion historian, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.
Latest episodes

Mar 4, 2018 • 31min
I Tonya & Monastic Dresses
We discuss the significance of jeans in the film I,Tonya, and interpreting Claire McCardell’s Monastic dress.
I,Tonya (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5580036/
Axel Yvon on Marithé + François Girbaud (2018): https://www.bonnegueule.fr/marithe-francois-girbaud-histoire-deux-techniciens-mode/
Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai, The social life of things, CUP 1986:
http://socrates.acadiau.ca/courses/engl/rcunningham/ts2012/texts/intro/Kopytoff-Cultural_Biography.pdf
Jules David Prown, 'The Truth of Material Culture:
History or Fiction?', in Steven Lubar and W. David Kingery, History from Things, Smithsonian Institution Press 1993, pp. 1-19
Claire McCardell:
http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84055
Rebecca Arnold, American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York, I.B. Tauris 2008:
http://www.ibtauris.com/Books/Society--social-sciences/Society--culture-general/Cultural-studies/American-Look-Fashion-and-the-Image-of-Women-in-1930s-and-1940s-New-York

Feb 25, 2018 • 35min
Pleasure Gardens & Gordon Parks
We discuss 18th century pleasure gardens and displaying historic fashions, and consider Gordon Parks’ fashion and documentary photographs.
Miles, Ellie, 'A Museum of Everything: Making the Pleasure Gardens inside the Museum of London', The London Journal, vol. 38, no. 2 (July 2013), pp. 151-165
The Gordon Parks Foundation: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/
Roth, Lorna, ‘Looking at Shirley, The Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, & Cognitive Equity’, Canadian Journal of Communication, vol. 34 (2009), pp. 111-36
Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/

Feb 18, 2018 • 33min
Stiebel, BTS Beauty & Obama
We discuss Victor Stiebel’s tips for women, backstage beauty and the new Obama portraits.
LCF Victor Stiebel Archive: https://vads.ac.uk/collections/LCFVS.html
Beauty Instagrams:
@patmcgrathreal
@beautyisboring_
@violette_fr
@morgane_martini
@enywhitehead
Doreen St. Félix on Amy Sherald's Michelle Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-mystery-of-amy-sheralds-portrait-of-michelle-obama
Vinson Cunningham on Kehinde Wiley's Barrack Obama portrait:
https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-shifting-perspective-in-kehinde-wileys-portrait-of-barack-obama

Feb 11, 2018 • 36min
Passing & Raf Simons
We discuss the upcoming Conference on fashion and passing, and Raf Simons' references to Christiane F. in his latest collection.
Passing: Fashion in American Cities conference, 5 May 2018, Courtauld Institute of Art, London:
https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities
Nella Larsen: http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/cvvpw/gallery/larsen.html
Georg Simmel, Metropolis and Mental Life (1903/1950): http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/content/bpl_images/content_store/sample_chapter/0631225137/bridge.pdf
Fatberg at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/fatberg
Raf Simons, Fall 2018 collection: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/raf-simons
Patrik Sandberg on Raf Simons' show for Dazed (8/2/18):
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38937/1/last-nights-raf-simons-aw18-new-york-show-was-all-about-drugs

Feb 4, 2018 • 33min
Phantom Thread & Haute Couture
We discuss Phantom Thread and a visit to the V&A's stores to see haute couture.
Phantom Thread official site: http://focusfeatures.com/phantom-thread
Stephanie Zacharek's review for Time (21/12/2017): http://time.com/5075162/phantom-thread-movie-review/
Maytime in Mayfair (1949): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0041647/
Extract from Making Fashion (1938): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA
Callot Soeurs, 1922, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O140706/afternoon-dress-callot-soeurs/
Madeleine Vionnet, 1937, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O319608/dress-vionnet-madeleine/
Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O15665/the-circus-collection-evening-ensemble-elsa-schiaparelli/
Jacques Fath, 1949, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O120382/dress-with-swag-fath-jacques/
Christian Dior, 1947/55, V&A:
http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O75379/bar-skirt-suit-dior-christian/

Jan 28, 2018 • 30min
Valentino & Weimar Fashion
We discuss why we think the latest Valentino haute couture collection was designed to be drawn and the women photographers that captured Weimar fashions.
Valentino Spring 2018 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/valentino#review
Richard Haines Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/?hl=en
Richard Brody on People On Sunday (1930): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/movie-week-people-sunday
Frieda Riess or Die Riess: http://www.dasverborgenemuseum.de/exhibits/exhibit/die-riess-44-en
Yva: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/20704/1/yva-shattered-vision
Rudolf Schlichter: http://www.gseart.com/Artists-Gallery/Schlichter-Rudolf/Schlichter-Rudolf-Biography.php
Mila Ganeva - Women in Weimar Fashion (2008: https://boydellandbrewer.com/women-in-weimar-fashion.html

Jan 21, 2018 • 25min
Plastic Macs & Tote Bags
We discuss Kim Jones’ finale at Louis Vuitton, the proliferation of plastic and nylon raincoats in the menswear shows, and Bonnie Cashin’s inventive bag designs.
Wear and Tear by Tracy Tynan: http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Wear-and-Tear/Tracy-Tynan/9781501123696
Kim Jones Instagram: @mrkimjones
Dries Van Noten instagram: @driesvannoten
See all the shows on Vogue’s Runway App
bonniecashin.org

Jan 14, 2018 • 29min
Dissecting The Deuce
We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017).
The Deuce (2017) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/
Anna Terrazas hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/
Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/
The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/
Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/
https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html
https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes

Jan 5, 2018 • 24min
Visible Mending & Unzipped
We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below.
Visible Mending
https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/
http://celiapym.com/
https://tomofholland.com/
http://www.woolfiller.com/
http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/
http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop
Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY
Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg
Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8