Bande à part

We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance. Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/

We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close. Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/ Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/ V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0

We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales. Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/ 'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber

We discuss fashion’s fascination with nature and related ethical issues, prompted by the new V&A exhibition Fashioned From Nature. V&A exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF: http://sustainable-fashion.com/ Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/ Emily Manning on Katharine Hamnett for i-D.vice: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/3kqjzn/why-fashions-eco-warrior-katharine-hamnett-is-kanyes-main-muse

We discuss exhibitions that show Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaia’s purity of vision. Jil Sander exhibition: http://www.museumangewandtekunst.de/en/museum/exhibitions/jil-sander-present-tense.html Azzedine Alaïa website: http://www.alaia.fr/en/home.html# Vogue's review of the show (2018): https://www.vogue.com/article/azzedine-alaia-je-suis-couturier

We discuss Rosamond Bernier’s extraordinary life, and wonder about pockets. Watch a clip of Rosamond Bernier’s lecturing at The Metropolitan Museum here: http://www.rosamondbernier.com/ Leslie Camhi’s 2011 article on Rosamond Bernier for Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/rosamond-bernier-the-flaming-debutante Rebecca's article about pockets for Cos: https://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets The Art of Manliness' take on man's pockets (2017): https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/05/20/a-mans-pockets/ Danica Ollerova for Pause on men wearing handbags (2017): http://pausemag.co.uk/2017/04/will-men-start-rocking-womens-bags-this-season/ Jake Woolf for GQ on whether man purses are a thing (2016): https://www.gq.com/story/mens-shoulder-bag-man-purse-bag Some 19th century skirts with pockets at the Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82094.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81437.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81519.html

We discuss gender binaries and barbershops, plus the art of flower making. Lauren Sherman, 'For Women, Hairstyles at the Barbershop', New York Times (11/12/2013): https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/fashion/For-Women-Hairstyles-at-the-Barbershop.html F. Scott Fitzgerald, 'Bernice Bobs Her Hair' (1922): https://web.archive.org/web/20050830054426/http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/ Bassano Studio: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/group/18241.html Flower Makers Museum: https://www.visit1066country.com/things-to-do/attractions/flower-makers-museum-p411891 The Lost Art of Flower Making (Museum of London blog post 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/lost-art-flower-making Thomas Bloor, Last of the Flower Makers (1997): https://archive.org/details/lotfm

We discuss how Beatrice learnt to darn, and consider Jessica Jones and what superheroes should wear. Ray-Stitch: https://raystitch.co.uk/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/ Annemor Sundbø: https://annemor.com/english/ Vladimir Arkhipov's Home-Made (2006): http://fuel-design.com/publishing/home-made/ Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/chapter_2.html#linen_darning Jessica Jones (2015-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2357547/ Luke Cage (2016-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3322314/ Wonder Woman (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0451279/

We discuss why we think Edwardian women look like mermaids and the influence of jazz on interwar British art and design. Lucile gown (1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81608.html Camille Clifford: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw178842/Camille-Clifford-Camilla-Antoinette-Clifford Paule Morly: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paule_Morly#/media/File:MORLY,_Paule_%C3%89toile._764-69._Photo_Stebbing.jpg Annette Kellerman: https://maas.museum/event/million-dollar-mermaid-annette-kellerman/ Edmond (Edmund)Dulac: http://expositions.bnf.fr/contes/grand/091_2.htm Rhythm & Reaction at Two Temple Place: https://twotempleplace.org/exhibitions/rhythm-and-reaction/ Autograph ABP: http://autograph-abp.co.uk/ Mark Matera, Black London (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520284302

We discuss how amazing Grace Jones is and imperfect clothes in museums. Sophie Fiennes (director), Grace Jones: Bloodlight & Bami (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt6903636/ Francis Ford Coppola (director), Bram Stoker's Dracula(1992): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103874/ Grace Jones with Paul Morley, 'I Never Write My Memoirs' (2016): http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Ill-Never-Write-My-Memoirs/Grace-Jones/9781476765082 Present Imperfect: Disorderly Apparel Reconfigured exhibition (2017): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/present-imperfect/