The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she retired from competing in 2017, discovering a new self-identity outside of climbing, pole dancing, getting back to climbing, her goal to climb V14, and current training.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/megan-mascarenasNuggets:6:45 – Tuna sandwich and coffee9:19 – Whiskey (the dog, not the alcohol)10:35 – Sunday mornings11:07 – Rubiks Cubes15:20 – Megan’s cloud puzzle16:00 – The puzzle addiction, and becoming a climber at age 218:45 – Siblings and coaches22:33 – Retiring from competition and transitioning away from climbing26:04 – The two sides of freedom, and the path to medicine 29:26 – How Megan achieved a 4.7 GPA in high school, and getting an A- in Rock Climbing class 31:56 – Losing a chunk of herself when she stopped climbing, and getting back into climbing 33:26 – Hindsight is 20/2034:42 – Pole dancing39:46 – Applying pole strength to climbing40:52 – Megan’s current pole dancing “project”41:56 – Megan’s outdoor climbing goals in RMNP,  and current training45:08 – Pole dancing = barndoor training45:51 – Preparing for ‘Jade’, and outdoor vs. indoor climbing48:10 – Advice for new/young climbers 49:26 – Advice new/young climbers should ignore, and what Megan wishes she had done differently50:44 – Magic Wood and ‘New Baseline’52:43 – Question from Jimmy: Any tips for calming nerves during competition finals?54:25 – Competition rituals55:42 – Megan’s self talk when she is getting shut down by a climb56:41 – Question from Jeffrey: What made you so dominant as a young female competitor?57:51 – Megan’s drive to improve, and dealing with growing expectations 1:00:04 – Question from Jeffrey: How do you view climbing vs. training, and has that changed as you have gotten older?1:01:17 – Board climbing1:03:39 – Making up boulders and working on weaknesses1:05:19 – Megan’s favorite pun1:06:10 – Dinner party guest1:07:41 – Singing in the car1:08:18 – The Golden Axe1:09:04 – Happiest climbing day1:09:45 – The ups and downs 1:11:24 – What Megan would want a new best friend to know about her1:12:13 – The Incredibles, mind reading, and superhero colors1:13:25  – Molecules1:14:26 – Gratitude1:15:02 – Math1:16:02 – Zion1:17:09 – Enjoying the path

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer issues, and maintaining the power mullet. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 2:06:41.

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Learn more about Q&As:thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-contentShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1Nuggets:00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story? 17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does training work, and what is happening in our body when we get stronger?27:16 – Emma’s Question: Recommendations for training with a knee injury?30:34 – Emma’s Question: Should I train my good leg while my other leg is injured?31:44 – Katie’s Question: What inspires you the most aside from climbing?33:34 – Adrian’s Question: Why did you stop intermittent fasting?35:39 – Ted’s Question: Will carbs help me get stronger faster coming from a keto diet? And what changes have you made to your diet that have made a difference?41:16 – Jasna’s Question: How do you mentally deal with injuries? How do you redirect your psych when dealing with a climbing injury?50:35 – Darren’s Question: When are you going to tell us about anorexic Steven? And was it worth it?51:32 – Jimmy’s Question: 3-week or 5-week training cycles: have you tried both? Which do you prefer?54:58 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite training playlist?56:07 – Adriel’s Question: Advice on working through mental blocks, like fear of falling?  1:00:23 – Adriel’s Question: How much can you train a month sustainably?1:03:24 – Adriel’s Question: Tips for hard finger cracks? (5.11 and up)1:06:07 – Heather’s Question: Advice for someone who is interesting in training for the first time?1:12:57 – Heather’s Question: What have you learned about yourself living in the van? And is this lifestyle sustainable for you?1:17:01 – Heather’s Questions: What are some of your biggest climbing takeaways? Where would you be without climbing, and what has made you the climber you are today?1:22:01 – Casey’s Question: Do you train on the road? If so, how?1:23:19 – Casey’s Question: How are you structuring your Hueco trip? 1:26:47 – Casey’s Question: Why does everyone say your van smells good even if they are vegan? Is it because everyone needs beef? (just kidding… kind of)1:27:32 – Casey’s Question: Bouldering diet vs. sport climbing diet? 1:28:35 – Casey’s Question: Favorite other podcasts?1:31:00 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on flexibility?1:32:21 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on warming up?1:34:20 – Casey’s Question: If you could press a button and go anywhere, where would you go each day of the week?1:37:11 – Steve’s Question: What patterns have you seen emerge among the high performers you’ve interviewed?1:40:04 – Steve’s Question: Living on the road full time, do you ever get sick of it and just want to settle somewhere for a year?1:41:13 – Jeffrey’s Question: Top 3 dream guests to interview?1:43:45 – Jeffrey’s Question: What’s the most common weakness you see among top climbers?1:45:40 – Ilkka’s Question: What about the ethical side of eating meat?1:49:08 – Wrap up

Chelsea Murn is a climbing and business coach, and the founder of Lady Beta Coaching. We talked about making 100k in her first year of climbing coaching, recommendations for new entrepreneurs, getting uncomfortable, investing in ourselves, scarcity vs. abundance, rewiring our limiting beliefs, money mindset, and Hogwarts letters.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chelsea-murnNuggets:5:04 – Chelsea’s morning routines, and scheduling similar things on specific days8:45 – Batching, and Do Not Disturb mode12:20 – Creating boundaries, and making time to enjoy  climbing13:33 – Having a coach 16:24 – Being empowered and validated by other women in her business school17:58 – Making $220k last year, and the story of climbing her first 5.13b at Deep Creek24:19 – Description of Deep Creek27:11 – Making $100k in her first year as a climbing coach, and getting started in business coaching32:59 – Example clients and businesses36:11 – How Chelsea thinks about investing in herself, scarcity vs. abundance mindset, and being uncomfortable39:40 – “I was uncomfortable every day of 2020”42:52 – Building a business and not a hustle47:33 – How much Chelsea works now50:12 – Working toward a 7-figure business, and the minimum effective dose52:05 – Coming up with bad ideas, fear of being seen, and having the courage to take the first step57:30 – Backpack full of rocks58:53 – My failed leaps before the podcast, fourth try is the charm, and playing the long game1:04:14 – Doing meaningful work, creating value for people, and getting paid enough to do it again and again1:07:22 – Patron Question from Kyle: Advice for someone getting started in the climbing industry, and moonlight vs. taking a big leap?1:10:21 – Money mindset1:18:03 – Looking for evidence for limiting beliefs, and scarcity mindset in relationships1:20:49 – Journaling, and writing down “opposite reasons”1:22:21 – Brain rewiring: what is it?1:24:47 – Chelsea’s experience with route setting, and rewiring her belief about her own worth and strength1:28:51 – Chelsea guides me through brain rewiring my money mindset1:32:34 – What brain wiring does, the mechanisms behind why it works, and my homework1:37:12 – Being open with goals, charging what you are worth, and redefining success1:42:09 – Patron Question from Curtis: What trends are you seeing in your clients who are having performance breakthroughs?1:44:02 – “Vanity metrics” vs. how you feel1:44:31 – Chelsea’s current brain rewiring practice, and what she is working on herself right now  1:47:18 – Why Chelsea doesn’t read business books, and my thoughts on how to navigate the information age1:51:14 – Chelsea’s favorite fantasy books1:53:16 – The Hogwarts Letter, and Chelsea’s Hogwarts house 1:55:25 – Grateful for sun and to be moving1:56:31 – Upcoming offerings from Chelsea1:58:11 – The LadyBeta Podcast2:00:32 – “If you know you were meant for something more, you were.”

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ben Herrington. We talked about the treasure hunters mindset and clues to look for when developing new boulders, go-to tools for cleaning a new line, how to suss out moves off the deck, building landings, Ben’s new gym in the Tri-Cities, WA, and setting himself boulders that attack his weaknesses.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 47:14.

Leif Gasch has been a climber for over 25 years and now works as a trainer and coach. We talked about his path from construction to coaching, balancing training with a physically demanding job, how to be a better weekend warrior, mini-goals, breaking into new grades, warming up for hard redpoints, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leif-gaschNuggets:4:36 – “Back porch kind of a deal”5:28 – Living on the road during covid, and moving back to Lander8:06 – The pod, Leif’s first trip to Hueco with Scott Milton, and sending Frogger11:18 – Years of cherry-picking, new development in Hueco, and becoming a guide12:51 – Early carpentry, becoming an electrition, and building a house15:40 – Growing up on a ranch, hunting, and climbing Devils Tower17:54 – Climbing in Cody, ‘The Fuz’ climbing gang, teaching, and falling in love with climbing21:45 – “You come to Lander, you gotta bring your own job!”23:32 – Living with artists, ‘The Plague’, and Leif’s intro to training for climbing25:46 – Lifting weights in college, and the rocket ship analogy29:12 – Sticking with the training process, “it takes time”, and Leif’s first 5.14b35:57 – Learning to stick with it, mental carry over, and testing to be an electrition38:38 – Moving away from the trades, relating to blue collar workers, and starting SUBSTR842:04 – How Leif educated himself to become a better coach, remote vs. in-person coaching, and being receptive to critique45:42 – The PCC49:06 – The 75/25 rule, and designing skill drills54:40 – On the wall tension building, crunches, and the shortcomings of limit bouldering58:56 – Core tension, the posterior chain, and an example of building tension on the wall1:02:39 – The benefit of having a specific goal1:04:19 – The drill Leif learned from Kris Hampton at Power Company, and learning to create more tension through the feet1:07:10 – Patron Question from Donovan: What should I work on to break into 5.13?1:19:50 – Patron Question: How can I be a weekend warrior?1:31:53 – Mini goals1:34:31 – Patron Question from Tyler: Tips for non-professional climbers?1:39:03 – Patron Question from Matt: Recommendations for someone who works a physically demanding job in the trades?1:43:49 – Patron Question from Moritz: Leif’s weight when he climbed 5.14b?1:45:38 – My restricting eating story, training heavy, and being an opportunivore1:54:40 – Patron Question from Moritz: Can Leif do a front lever yet?1:56:43 – Patron Question from Nolan: What does your warmup look like for a hard redpoint?2:05:14 – Patron Question from Steve Bechtel: How did Leif deal with and get past a severe finger injury?2:16:01 – ‘Strawberry Roan’2:26:01 – Patron Question from Darren: Send goals or dream route in Lander?2:31:11 – Patron Question from Darren: Does it feel like a disadvantage being a big dude pulling on small monos in Lander?2:33:08 – Grateful for friends and family 

In this solo episode, I share my experience with an eating disorder. I talk about how an inaccurate DEXA scan and a desire to climb harder spiraled into body dysmorphia, failure, and shame. I also talk about what led me out of it, reframing the way I think about weight, key lessons and takeaways, where I am at now with weight and diet, and how I plan to move forward.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/my-eating-disorder

Carlos Tkacz is a teacher, author, and lover of literature. He also lives in a van and climbs V13. We talked about many things, including a reading list given to him by his friend, impactful quotes, lessons learned from students, starting climbing in his 20’s and discovering training, writing a training book, self-publishing sci-fi novels, public speaking advice, and sharing ideas.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-tkaczInstagram Links:@boulderbushido@thenuggetclimbingNuggets:2:35 – The record button3:37 – Stickers and paintings6:37 – Books from the reading list11:16 – James Baldwin quote12:38 – How Carlos uses Instagram16:16 – ‘Turbulence’ and East of Eden 22:45 – Plans to go back to school for a Ph.D. in Literature, and living in a world of stories26:18 – The moment Carlos knew he wanted to be a teacher31:01 – Teaching Communication 10134:54 – Public speaking advice #1, and the fight or flight response38:38 – Public speaking advice #239:17 – “Drink deep or not at all.”43:02 – Zen Buddhism, and being skeptical of little enlightenments44:11 – “The sign of a true education is to be able to entertain an idea without believing it.”47:50 – Mr. Ruff, and writing an editorial about gay marriage49:33 – Two great stickers49:54 – Living on public land in Bishop and taking a year off52:05 – Quarentraining, and social connection through climbing56:20 – Sending ‘Diabolique’ and becoming a climber at age 2359:01 – Resonating with Patxi Usobiaga’s masochism in ‘Progression’1:02:43 – Carlos’ climbing progression, ups and downs, and the broken pinky story1:07:04 – Shifting to focusing on bouldering1:08:03 – Early training iterations, Taco Bell + bananas, and moving the pieces around 1:11:20 – Writing a training book on accident1:14:50 – The Japanese team, and top outdoor boulderers1:17:25 – Jimmy Webb, gymnastics, survivorship bias, and structure as a tool for resilience1:20:43 – Overview of ‘Training 102’ and Carlos training philosophy1:27:31 – Drills, and higher intensity core exercises 1:30:17 – Rotating exercises and addressing weaknesses, and programming1:32:39 – Training friends and testimonials1:35:33 – What a typical week of training looks like, climb outside, and how Carlos trains within a year1:38:35 – The nutrition chapter, eating disorders,  Carlos’ experience with vegetarianism and veganism, and his current way of eating1:41:36 – Eating the same thing every day1:42:49 – Planning nutrition, eating more, and becoming more flexible1:45:37 – The food industry and the unique challenge of balancing a healthy outlook on food and weight1:46:25 – The ‘Light’ documentary, and finding the line1:47:47 – Scarcity vs. opulence, discipline as a path to freedom, and Carlos’ upbringing1:59:26 – Carlos’ Sci-fi novels, and writing a thousand words per day2:04:03 – Two different types of creatives, and using his first few books as practice2:05:05 – Plot overview of The Void Within2:10:07 – Star Trek vs. Star Wars, Captain Pips, and Carlos’ conversion story and swearing off violence2:11:51 – Losing the mental battle in Hueco, and making a trip to Roy2:14:52 – Gratitude2:17:00 – Excited with sharing ideas with students2:20:40 – Where to connect with Carlos

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Emily Harrington. We talked about her send of ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, finding flow state after a minor head injury, using two pairs of TC Pros to climb the Monster Offwidth, her recent trip to the VRG, how she has trained Adrian (her partner) to climb his first 5.13b, and favorite pancake toppings. You can get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 36:17.Learn more: thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups

This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:10) – Why Dave wrote ‘9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’(00:11:09) – Using ‘9 out of 10’ to discover your own individual pitfalls, and why Dave has become more and more interested in lifestyle(00:15:28) – Using your climbing partners as mirrors, changing your circumstances, and the shortcut to sending your project(00:21:00) – Dave’s common pitfall—quality recovery(00:22:25) – Productivity and the value of having a home wall(00:26:30) – “Bouldering is king”, and how Dave fits indoor bouldering sessions around outdoor climbing(00:31:47) – How Dave uses flexible programing for his training(00:37:01) – Periodization as a tool for introducing variety(00:38:52) – Fingerboarding on the same day as bouldering and Dave’s thoughts on which to do first(00:40:33) – The “one-minute-per-move” rule(00:42:40) – Patron Question from Adriel: Any advice for maintaining a positive growth curve as you age? What does Dave think the upper age limit is for hitting peak performance?(00:48:23) – Dave’s take on how much protein to eat per day(00:49:39) – Dave’s current carnivore diet experiment(00:57:10) – Sport climbing on a ketogenic diet(01:07:20) – Patron Question from Charizze: How many eggs make a pile of eggs?(01:10:17) – Patron Question from Maria: How do manage the strength to weight ratio through diet, while avoiding falling down the rabbit hole of energy deficiency and/or disordered eating?(01:16:42) – Patron Question from Mike: Dave, you’re a hero, but I’ll be honest, much of the climbing in Scottland looks chossy and overgrown. What crag should a climber from the US visit to correct that misconception?(01:19:07) – What time of year is best to visit Scottland to climb, and the “24/8”(01:22:23) – Patron Question from Laurent: How do you balance fatherhood and climbing? Any secret beta for a new father who’d like to keep improving at climbing while being present in his daughter’s life?(01:25:59) – Patron Question from Eric: Any recommendations for injury-prone climbers?(01:30:50) – Favorite discipline of climbing(01:32:05) – Last meal(01:32:39) – Recommended books(01:36:24) – Advice for his 20-year-old self(01:37:26) – Advice for his 30-year-old self(01:39:52) – Defining climbing moments(01:42:14) – One of the best decisions Dave has ever made(01:42:54) – Gratitude(01:44:21) – Excited to focus on climbing