The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/austin-hoytNuggets:4:30 – Austin’s bouldering stats at age 18, and how he fits climbing in while going to school8:12 – Some of Austin's typical weekend destinations9:48 – Favorite areas in the Northeast11:38 – How Austin started climbing (Ninja Warrior + ice cream shop), and doing V3 his first week15:11 – Crediting everything to his first coach Charlie, and negative reinforcement18:41 – Drills and spray wall climbing23:34 – Climbing at Powerlines, and getting into doing first ascents (FAs)25:25 – “Chase me”, and what Austin learned from watching his coach Charlie climb27:25 – Finding new boulders in famous areas29:17 – The Gunks, and Austin’s Gunkaholics film series33:40 – The season in The Gunks, and what Austin does when it rains for two weeks34:44 – Balancing projecting, outdoor climbing for volume, and indoor training37:15 – The mental battle of projecting, and the first ascent of ‘Flashing Lights’ V1443:14 – ‘Nuclear War’ V1345:52 – Filmmaking, and Austin’s film equipment and influence 49:18 – College plans and dreams to make adventure films52:00 – Plan for a gap year, and comp training54:42 – Dave Graham56:18 – How Austin trains power on a spray wall 57:30 – Guidance for setting a spray wall, and the skill of making up hard climbs to train on1:00:24 – What a spray wall session looks like, and training strengths vs. weaknesses1:02:28 – Patron Question from Brandon: Do you have any roped ambitions in New England?1:04:22 – Bouldering vs. trad in The Gunks1:05:44 – Patron Question from Will: What is your favorite crag north of The Gunks?1:07:48 – Patron Question from Jack: What is your favorite problem on the Speed Boulder at GB?1:08:55 – Patron Question from Avery: How did you become the master of vert?1:11:25 – Austin’s dad, motocross, and broken bones1:14:13 – How his dad supported him in climbing ‘Nuclear Base’ V141:17:39 – Austin’s new project1:19:18 – Climbing algorithms, “The Formula”, and Austin’s perspective on grades1:22:36 – The dream of becoming a pro climber, the current goal of developing the Northeast, my experiences in Leavenworth, and making lists1:26:05 – Applying to colleges near climbing1:27:07 – Beta Labs, and ideas for building his own business1:30:54 – Shoutouts to his sponsors

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinderNuggets:6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work1:06:16 – Sushi celebration1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?2:25:05 – Graffiti2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.Donate To:safeclimbing.orgclimbmalawi.comclimbinginitiative.orgSupport the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeoNuggets:5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland9:50 – Working in Ireland10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing 21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi 27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy 30:05 – Good intentions gone awry32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard 37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description52:44 – Ernest54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI 1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route2:03:01 – A better world through climbing2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve’s climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:38:35.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingVirtual Performance Climbing Coach Summit:the-climb-strong-pcc-classroom.teachable.com/p/virtual-pcc-summit2021-2022Steve's other episodes:EP 35: Steve BechtelFollow-Up: Steve Bechtel (our first one from January 2021)

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan FastBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-colemanNuggets:4:30 – Garbage trucks, and a Tuesday morning in the life of Nathaniel Coleman6:04 – What the two months following the Olympics have looked like for Nathaniel8:20 – Finding out that climbing would be in the Olympics and having qualifying as a goal10:44 – How Nathaniel’s goals evolved throughout the process11:45 – Nathaniel’s mantra for combined nationals 2019, and the journey to qualifying15:25 – How Nathaniel used his mantra, and self-belief vs. letting go of expectations17:25 – Confidence, upbringing, and competing for himself20:27 – The dice roll of competition22:10 – Climbing with Kyle O’Meara, Nathaniel’s relaxed approach to training as a teenager, comparing himself to Sean Bailey, and thriving on a plan with “adequate rest”25:50 – Balancing listening to motivation and pushing through it26:46 – Typical training volumes for World Cup climbers30:39 – How Nathaniel’s training to qualify for the Olympics vs. how he trained for Tokyo34:25 – Balancing World Cups with prep for Tokyo36:01 – Building a climbing “sauna” at the USA training center36:15 – Getting used to climbing in the heat and humidity40:41 – How Tokyo compared to the training sauna43:19 – What it was like to get on the plane and fly to Tokyo46:28 – The qualifying round in Tokyo, and realizing he made finals52:16 – Recalibrating goals after making finals53:48 – Finals1:03:18 – Watching Jacob top the lead route1:05:55 – Patron Question from Tyler: When it was all said and done, what did you think about the Olympic format?1:08:19 – More context about the Olympic format, and  Nathaniel’s thoughts on continuing to speed climb after Tokyo1:10:35 – Great Aunt Armida1:13:04 – Nathaniel’s Instagram posts after winning silver in Tokyo1:14:54 – What Nathaniel’s accomplishment meant for US climbing 1:17:59 – The first and second perspective-changing events in Nathaniel’s climbing career1:19:55 – Thoughts about hard outdoor rock climbing vs. competitions moving forward1:21:54 – How Nathaniel balances training for outdoor routes vs. competitions, and preparing for a trip to the Red1:24:25 – Context about ‘The Grand Illusion’1:25:02 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you have any plans to come back to work on the ‘Lee Majors’ extension?1:27:34 –  Patron Question from Timothy: Does Nathaniel ever see himself getting into highball bouldering or trad/big wall climbing?1:28:54 – Thoughts on retiring from competitions (when and why)1:30:40 – Rootbeer1:32:58 – Kendama1:35:55 – How Nathaniel still practicing the basics in climbing1:38:56 – Bonz Atron (the Chris Sharma of Kendama)1:40:18 – Chess1:41:28 – What Nathaniel does to relax and recharge1:42:52 – Special thanks to Josh, Zach, and Meg1:44:44 – Excited for the Red1:45:58 – Gratitude

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to improve your performance and power, how to turn off in the evenings to optimize recovery, and Tom shared about his childhood and ongoing struggle with anxiety from a chronic bladder issue.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan FastBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-2Nuggets:4:35 – Tom’s anxiety about this conversation, my bleached hair, and red bush tea7:30 – Clarifications from Part 1, more carb considerations, and keeping a training journal18:12 – What Tom is currently working on with Aiden Roberts, and reducing fiber to drop water weight24:45 – Alpha GBC supplementation for vegetarians and vegans, Tom’s experiment with climbing 30 days in a row, and lessons about hydration29:44 – The mind-body connection33:21 – Anxiety, butterflies in your stomach, falling in love, and the physical pain of heartbreak36:27 – Examples of working with clients with fear of specific foods, the mathematics of fat gain, and intellectual vs. emotional conversations39:49 – Phobias, catastrophizing, pain research, and looking upstream44:21 – Referring clients out to therapy48:31 – The hamstring test, and the connection between breathing and relaxation51:35 – “Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee”, belly breathing, and the significance of climbing in a defensive (tight) state55:18 – Reset send, and how to relax before your climbing session to increase your passat reserve59:32 – “You have control over your mental state through your body”, the bidirectional influence of the nervous system, and heart rate variability1:03:05 – How the parasympathetic state opens up opportunity, and the effect of imitating different postures (the Shawshank pose)1:08:48 – Belly breathing for more passat1:11:23 – Bracing vs creating tension1:15:09 – Practicing turning tension on and off1:17:31 – Strong First and creating inter abdominal pressure1:18:43 – Sending the appropriate signal for your session, and how to prepare for powerful climbing1:24:41 – Replenishing the creatine phosphate system1:26:40 – How to turn off at the end of the day, and improve recovery1:31:07 – Tricks for sleep, sleeping posture, and self-massage (knuckling)1:35:15 – Tom’s foam roller ab stretch1:37:37 – Where your mind should be during the evening breathing practice, and rewiring your brain patterns1:40:35 – EMDR and brain spotting, and moving your eyes during your climbing session1:49:39 – Opening our field of vision, and why we feel relaxed in nature or at the ocean1:51:26 – How to increase power by marching in place, and climbing open1:53:09 – My plans to try EMDR on Eternia 1:55:05 – Tom’s childhood2:00:21 – Moving to the UK to become a techno DJ, and  getting into debt2:02:31 – Living off of milk and protein powder, getting kidney stones, and urinary urgency2:04:52 – Trapped in a small world2:08:20 – Empathy and patience for others2:10:50 – Life is chaos, losing his sister, and turning 402:15:35 – Causing ripples and creating freedom for other people2:19:10 – Doing things just because they are fun2:21:07 – Going back to pole dance2:22:54 – Good days and bad days, and moving in a better direction2:24:45 – Hoping to start working with people in person again, and 2022 plans for usefulcoach 

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:25.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNatasha's other episodes:EP 32: Natasha BarnesFollow-Up: Natasha Barnes (our first one from April 2021)

Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories to support a higher training volume, muscle protein synthesis, carbohydrate recommendations and timing, food quality, leucine supplementation, and much more. Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast (he's the first one!)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-1Nuggets:5:37 – The ambiance of Boulder, CO6:41 – Tom’s night at an outdoor club8:39 – The ClimbSci podcast (Tom’s old podcast project)10:23 – How Tom’s nutrition approach has changed since the ClimbSci podcast days, and seeking critique on Reddit12:30 – How I connected with Tom via Hazel Findlay, and my goal for this conversation15:04 – Who is Tom Herbert (@usefulcoach), and getting climbers to eat more to get more out of life19:45 – Common themes in the clients Tom works with22:56 – How climbers tend to eat the least amount of food they can get away with, and the weight of food and water 27:36 – Book recommendations are not real life, and Tom’s experiment with a cycling diet of very high carb30:56 – Michael Phelps, and Tom’s central message of eating more so we can do more training38:34 – Weight vs. lean mass and body composition44:53 – Gaining lean body mass while training47:45 – Progress in your training plan as a prime metric50:53 – My experience with being stronger and lean but “fluffy around the middle”, Tom’s experience working with physique athletes, and breaking down the ideals we have in our heads as climbers55:47 – The disconnect between looking badass and being badass, and “we tend to want to look like we climb harder than we actually climb.”58:35 – “Is this everything I can do with my body?”, “Am I doing everything I can do to be healthy?”, and excepting our bodies1:01:33 – Fat loss is not a linear process1:02:24 – Aidan Roberts’ DEXA scan, and the cost of dieting1:06:34 – Accounting for different bodies looking different at the same body fat percentage, and the selection bias of naturally lean people in pro climbing1:10:42 – Tracking absolute strength, and focusing on improving the quality and the volume of your training over time1:14:57 – Staying the same weight at higher calories, and reaching a new homeostasis if you do increase weight1:17:44 – My experience with gaining weight, finding a new homeostasis, and getting stronger than ever before1:20:20 – Energy availability, and how many calories Tom has his athletes eat on a rest day and training day (using me as an example)1:29:17 – Protein, muscle-protein synthesis, and eating protein 4-5 times per day1:37:57 – Tom’s thoughts on my daily protein intake1:40:29 – Waving carb amounts, and Tom’s recommendations for me for daily carbs1:44:21 – Saturating the climbing/training session with glucose, and the benefits of a low carb dinner1:51:28 – Tom’s thoughts on carb backloading1:57:08 – Two questions about carbs, and the main 2 reasons why Tom likes to wave carb amounts2:04:20 – Summary of Tom’s carb strategy, and thoughts on skipping breakfast 2:06:28 – Food quality2:08:12 – Patron question from Tyler: Thoughts on protein powders and artificial flavoring?2:13:19 – Why Tom doesn’t like BCAA’s2:15:51 – More on food quality and nutrient density2:20:49 – Seed oils2:22:19 – Tom’s stance on meat and animal products2:24:34 – Beans, legumes, and anti-nutrients2:27:06 – Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing (EMDR)2:31:34 – Gratitude

Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery, the decision to amputate his leg, climbing harder than ever after the accident, doing El Cap in a day, dealing with chronic pain, teaching adaptive climbing, and embracing a new normal.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/craig-demartinoNuggets:3:28 – El Cap, Craig’s son, and owning what you like6:09 – His kids catching the climbing bug, and watching sports from the sidelines8:12 – Adaptive sports, ball sports, and exploring sports outside the box9:30 – Bouldering with a prosthetic leg11:30 – Craig’s recent broken foot15:23 – Trauma, avoiding getting hurt gain, and the hardware in his foot17:00 – Being in Estes, relistening to EP 11 of the Enormocast, and sitting down in person20:30 – Craig’s accident36:05 – Waking up in the hospital, moving to an assisted living home, and eventually returning home42:52 – The human body is amazing43:51 – “Fuck it. I’m gonna cut my leg off and see what happens.” -Craig DeMartino54:40 – “Who am I in this new form?”56:04 – The barking dog, and the human barometer58:42 – Pain and visualization1:02:05 – Being honest about the ups and downs, and moving away from the accident1:05:03 – New identities, and Hugh Herr1:06:00 – “I would never change it”, and finding purpose in teaching adaptive sports1:11:06 – Craig’s life before the accident, helping people now, and inclusivity1:15:22 – Being a climber first, and the first all-adaptive ascent of El Cap1:16:40 – Helping trauma patients find flow state through climbing1:19:56 – Working through triggers and PTSD1:22:56 – Craig’s recovery status1:24:55 – How to hack the perspective without the injury, and how Will’s (Craig’s son’s) coach Mikey influenced him1:29:15 – Question from Chris Kalous: “Why do you swear so much, Craig?”1:31:54 – Patron question from Tyler: What made your story so captivating when you shared it on the Enormocast?1:35:35 – Talking with Steve and remembering the accident, and going back to ‘White Man’1:38:52 – Rannveig’s story, self-blame, and moving forward1:41:48 – Patron question from Graham: How can people in the helping professions provide better opportunities for empowerment for people with disabilities?1:47:23 – Patron question from Levi: How could we go about making a centralized group for adaptive climbers?1:51:07 – How to connect with Craig1:52:00 – Patron question from Andrew: Have you tried custom prosthetics for a specific move or route?1:55:54 – Craig’s quiver of legs, and our amazing feet1:58:24 – Patron question from Eli: What have been some of the hardest lessons, and best and encouraging ones since your fall?2:00:40 – “When you get up there, don’t take no for an answer.” - HK2:01:56 – Rock climbing is hard, and explaining rock climbing to your Grandma2:04:04 – Patron question from Eli: What advice might you have for other climbers with kids?2:09:09 – Most meaningful climbs since the injury, speed climbing El Cap with Hans Florine, and sport climbing with Cindy (Craig’s wife)2:16:30 – Climbing his hardest after the accident2:19:18 – Sending ‘Dirty Smelly Hippie’, soft grades, and feeling confident at 12d2:23:16 – The steep style of the Red, climbing with one leg, and Tommy Caldwell as the most famous amputee2:26:55 – Patron question from Ken Klein: Moving to Puerto Rico, what will you miss most about the Fort Collins scene? How has it evolved in your time there?2:28:53 – Continuing the work in Puerto Rico, and chasing shorts weather2:32:54 – Why Craig hates pants2:34:44 – What Craig hopes to still accomplish in his climbing2:36:48 – How the experience of climbing scales2:37:58 – Grateful for opportunities2:39:00 – We are all struggling with something2:41:38 – Life is fluid

Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock climbing, training to flash El Cap, the value of taking risks in life, being a climbing parent, climbing in Pakistan, how to find an adventure without flying overseas, and the benefits of stiff shoes.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-whartonNuggets:3:55 – Josh’s age, and physical vs. technical/tactical progression5:40 – How Josh manages to be such a good all-arounder and still climb 5.149:13 – Trying to do every route in the Black Canyon and Rifle 11:42 – Uber loc(al)s, and using obscure easy routes to prepare for big mountains13:02 – Josh’s flash and onsight ability, tips and tricks, and climbing with a lot of confidence17:01 – How to get better at onsighting and flashing18:49 – Why Josh made the decision to stop redpointing routes he knows he can do20:11 – Overlapping flashing or onsighting22:30 – Josh’s go-to schedule for combining onsighting with projecting on a trip24:22 – How being a parent has changes Josh’s climbing priorities, rock climbing and alpine climbing as different sports, and the rewards of alpine climbing30:53 – “Everything is training, and nothing is training”, and alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies35:43 – Having dinner with Barry Blanchard37:03 – A message from Jonah, and what Josh has learned from each type of climbing40:26 – Variety as a source of motivation42:20 – A glimpse into Josh’s experience climbing Wheeler Peak48:04 – Patron question from Timothy: Why did Josh climb in the Black Canyon so much? What routes had the biggest impact on him? 54:03 – Latok and Ogar56:21 – The cost of a trip to Pakistan59:48 – What a trip to Pakistan looks like, and “Expectations often define an experience.”1:01:17 – More about Latok1:03:50 – How Josh would prepare for another attempt on Latok1:09:02 – Sport dry tooling, and winning the Ouray Ice Fest three years in a row1:12:48 – Learned about training from dry tooling competitions1:16:27 – The evolution of Josh’s training, and principles of training1:22:05 – The secret sauce1:25:02 – Josh’s training staples, and working with Lattice1:29:54 – Getting away from having to perform well every time you go climbing1:32:24 – Prioritizing climbing vs. training1:33:24 – Josh’s 60-degree campus board (joke), and how the Lattice training is going1:37:04 – Josh’s goal for 2021 (try to flash Freerider)1:39:55 – How Josh set the boulder problem on Freerider to spec1:41:37 – Preparing for the Monster Offwidth1:43:50 – Yuji’s article about trying to onsight El Cap1:45:14 – Patron questions from Henry: How much has parenthood reduced your tolerance for risk?1:50:55 – Hera, and Josh’s parallel universe in the NBA1:52:40 – Using climbing as a tool for travel, and more about climbing as a parent1:55:26 – Josh’s early climbing with his dad1:57:16 – Patron question from Garret: Any CO areas that don’t get the respect they deserve?1:59:12 – Patron question from Randall: Favorite zone or route in Montana? Other favorites in the States?2:02:10 – Patron question from Benjamin: Thoughts on the new Scarpa Boostic?2:05:35 – Shoe stiffness for Rifle, and analyzing the soft shoe trend2:07:42 – Shoe sizes, and Josh’s shoe plan for Freerider2:10:03 – Patron question from Benjamin: If Josh could only climb in one discipline for the rest of his life, what would he choose?2:10:41 – What’s next for Josh?2:14:55 – Gratitude