The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:07:08) – What is your Dawn Wall?(00:07:59) – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany(00:09:53) – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability(00:15:21) – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)(00:17:35) – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO(00:20:17) – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor(00:23:05) – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade(00:25:20) – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris(00:28:48) – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering(00:30:04) – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do(00:31:56) – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?(00:34:00) – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite?(00:35:16) – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold(00:38:46) – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainebleau(00:41:13) – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches(00:46:42) – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?(00:47:55) – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?(00:52:18) – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything(00:55:17) – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamasil(00:58:59) – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work(01:01:15) – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad(01:08:38) – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”(01:12:13) – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?(01:13:53) – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?(01:19:16) – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?(01:20:40) – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury(01:25:25) – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?(01:27:22) – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos(01:29:26) – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?(01:30:27) – The king line on El Cap(01:34:45) – Future linkups in Yosemite(01:36:57) – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie(01:37:36) – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience(01:40:19) – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners(01:42:35) – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?(01:42:58) – Big wall pooping stories(01:45:22) – Another book?(01:46:34) – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine(01:49:31) – Wrap up

Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hillNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video(00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique(00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo(00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose(00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out(00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet(00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people(00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French(00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship(00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian(00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now(00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose(01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey(01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience(01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts(01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming(01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose(01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch(01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free(01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it(01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon(01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse(01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)(01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers(01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s(01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart(01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path(01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days(02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber(02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?(02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?(02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon(02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?(02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move(02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored(02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork?(02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries?(02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential?(02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world(02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done?(02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages(03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France(03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on(03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn!(03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco

My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6Nuggets:0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:0:03:00 – Metal Game0:06:09 – Watching Videos0:09:55 – Visualization0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises0:28:37 – Getting Creative0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!0:30:59 – Patron Questions:0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed’s Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally

Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameronNuggets:0:06:31 – What they climbed on today0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 20200:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V182:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career2:17:33 – Flow state2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing

Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan’s resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-haferNuggets:0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves0:20:27 – What expectations are0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome1:15:55 – Climbing matters1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success.Climbers Crag:climberscrag.comCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-van-boxtelNuggets:0:06:57 – Organizing the important stuff, and putting systems in place0:11:11 – Overview of our conversation0:13:30 – Soccer, discovering climbing, and losing 20-30 lbs to become a route setter0:17:14 – Sam’s ability to focus on his goals, and why he got into business0:20:03 – Moving up the chain with route setting0:22:20 – How Sam got into social media, and getting 1000+ followers in less than a month0:24:11 – The business side of being a content creator0:26:57 – Pivoting from route setting to starting Climbers Crag, and how Sam teamed up with Tom Randall0:37:03 – What Climbers Crag is today0:40:41 – The organic next step0:41:58 – Summary of everything so far, and Climbers Crag’s two main services as an agency0:45:47 – The Climber’s Crag team, and why Sam reduced the size of his team0:46:58 – Who this is worthwhile for, and having a strong “why”0:53:13 – The two categories of individuals trying to grow their Instagram following, and having a clear funnel0:59:17 – Why I decided to make the Nugget for a year before trying to monetize, and making sure you love 80-90% of what you’re doing1:01:45 – “Goodwill compounds faster than revenue.”1:02:19 – Virality and customer surplus1:06:13 – The sustainability/longevity of the different social media platforms, supply and demand, why reels go viral, and why Instagram is king1:12:41 – Why Sam pressed pause on TikTok for Climbers Crag1:18:25 – Real numbers for Instagram growth goals, and where Sam thinks brands should be with Instagram before adding another platform1:20:22 – Another summary, and using Instagram as a jumping-off point1:23:05 – Crux Academy, and why Sam tries to talk most of his clients out of trying to grow on YouTube1:24:54 – My current strategy for The Nugget’s Instagram, balancing viral, brand, and value posts, and having a CTA (call to action) strategy1:32:17 – Sam’s recommendations for me to grow to 100k followers, and the two factors for growth1:45:11 – Best practices for resharing content from an ethical standpoint1:50:08 – Best time of day to post1:52:15 – Hashtags, optimizing content for growth on Instagram, and removing exit points1:59:48 – Watchtime and engagement2:02:08 – Using Capcut for Reels2:05:09 – Playing the game, and the difference between quality and success on a social media platform2:12:13 – Hiding the vegetables2:13:30 – Wrap up and how to connect with Sam

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJonathan’s Other Episodes:EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-greshamNuggets:0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.”1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard2:11:08 – Thumb crimping2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 502:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training2:27:33 – Finding balance2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil