Articles of Interest

Jad Abumrad, the influential radio producer and founder of Radiolab, engages in a captivating conversation with Avery about her series, Gear. They delve into how outdoor clothing transitioned into everyday fashion and the military's hidden ties to popular brands like Patagonia. Avery shares fascinating insights on the military's influence on design and the dual purpose of military jackets as protest symbols. She reflects on her journey as a fashion journalist and the storytelling evolution inspired by design. Their dialogue unlocks rich layers of fashion's past and future.

Stacey Baer, a former U.S. Army soldier and landmine clearance expert, shares his powerful journey from military service in Bosnia and Iraq to civilian life. He discusses the struggles of addiction and suicidal thoughts, highlighting the critical role outdoor programs played in his healing. Stacey emphasizes the cultural divide between veterans and civilians, advocating for better understanding and support. He also champions accessibility in outdoor experiences, arguing that healing should not be limited by economic barriers.

Explore the rise of gorpcore, where outdoor apparel meets urban fashion, thanks to its coined roots in 2017. Discover how designers transformed technical fabrics into stylish everyday wear, fueled by the athleisure trend and better sizing for women. Delve into the surprising connections between military design and the gorpcore aesthetic, with tactical gear making a fashionable leap into mainstream streets. Uncover the challenges of manufacturing in this niche and the cultural shifts that brought functional clothing to the forefront.

Explore the fascinating world of camouflage as the host dives into its military, fashion, and cultural implications. Learn how specific camo patterns align with hunting needs and how modern military gear influences civilian trends. Discover the history behind Multicam and its evolution, the backlash against digital camo, and the rise of special forces as style icons. From unique camouflage designs to concerns about militarization in law enforcement, this discussion uncovers the complex relationship between identity, trends, and societal perception.

In this engaging discussion, Ray Christian, a former Army drill sergeant, shares how military life shaped his identity and influenced American style, while Patricia Ziegler, co-founder of Banana Republic, recounts transforming military surplus into fashionable attire. They delve into the M65 field jacket’s evolution, the shift from protest fashion to mainstream trends, and the impact of scarcity on surplus clothing, offering a fascinating look at how military gear became a stylish staple in civilian wardrobes.

Pete Cunningham, son of innovative gear-maker Jerry Cunningham, shares captivating family stories and insights on his father's pioneering designs that transformed outdoor gear. Joined by gear historian Bruce Johnson, they dive into the evolution of the outdoor industry post-World War II, examining how military surplus influenced civilian gear and led to the rise of iconic brands. They also discuss Jerry’s groundbreaking inventions, including the baby backpack, which made the outdoors more accessible for families, showcasing a shift toward inclusivity in outdoor activities.

Rachel S. Gross, a historian of consumption, explores the evolution of outdoor gear, highlighting how retailers transformed shopping into a source of expertise. She discusses the origins of brands like Eddie Bauer and the influence of military needs on scientific gear testing. Joshua Kerner offers a critical take on General Littlejohn's aesthetic decisions, which led to critical failures in soldier winter supplies. Together, they reveal the intricate relationship between outdoor gear, military innovation, and consumer culture.

Kyle Fitzgibbons, the chief design and creative officer for Buck Mason, explores how vintage military influences shape modern menswear. Kristen Hoganson, a history professor, adds rich context about Theodore Roosevelt and the era's social currents affecting American military culture. They delve into the evolution of military attire, from the practicalities of hunting shirts to the complexities of masculinity during industrialization. The conversation also touches on the shift in clothing from the battlefield to everyday civilian life, and how these historical influences endure today.

Shigeru Kaneko and Yoichiro Nakamura, representatives from Beams, delve into the fascinating intersection of American Ivy and outdoor styles in Japan. They share how Beams transformed from a collegiate retailer to championing rugged outdoor wear. Shigeru reflects on his early encounters with American brands through catalogs, and they compare American functional designs to European aesthetics. The conversation also highlights the intertwined history of military utility and civilian outdoor gear, shedding light on how these influences shape both fashion and identity.

Robert Friedle, a historian of technology and science, provides an intriguing dive into the world of zippers. He shares the complex views of the Amish on modern technology and zippers' cultural significance in fashion. The narrative covers Gideon Sundback’s inventive journey, detailing both his triumphs and heartbreaks. Friedle also discusses YKK’s rise to dominance in zipper manufacturing and the evolution of zippers from novelty to necessity in everyday life and performance wear.