

The Training For Mountaineering Podcast
Rowan Smith: Mountaineering Fitness Coach
The Training For Mountaineering Podcast is created to help mountaineers and alpinists best train, prepare and conquer their mountain adventures. Rowan shares with you the simple and proven training strategies to get you fit, strong and resilient for the mountain. Inside he dives into training, injury prevention, nutrition, mental strength and much much more. So you can have the best chance of a safe, enjoyable and successful adventure!
Episodes
Mentioned books

Jul 19, 2020 • 18min
TFM8: Seven Rules Of Muscular Endurance Training (For Mountaineers)
Discover the essential rules for building muscular endurance crucial for mountaineering. Learn how traditional endurance advice often misses the mark for climbers and why strength training should come first. Explore practical workouts like hill repeats and the importance of controlled reps. Find out how to avoid burnout by varying your workouts and establishing a recovery routine that includes nutrition and hydration. Get insights on finding that perfect balance of load and pace to maximize your endurance for those grueling summit days.

Jul 12, 2020 • 23min
TFM7: Simulated Altitude Training For Mountaineers
In this episode, I discuss simulated altitude training for a mountaineer. I explore what it is, what its potential benefits are and clear up a lot of the confusion and misinformation, which is often spread about this method of training. Simulated altitude training in an incredibly contentious issue in the mountaineering community; some people swear by it, some people are adamant it is a waste of time. But no matter how you view it, there can be no argument it is getting more and more popular and prevalent in the mountaineering world. So today, I explore this subject in a bit of detail. I talk you through what it is, what the science behind altitude training says for mountaineers and how best to apply this in your preparation (if you decide to). So by the end of this episode, you will have the information you need, to make an informed decision if considering it in your preparations. You will learn: My mistakes with simulated altitude training (and why you cannot believe everything you are told about this method of training) The three different types of altitude training (and why you CANNOT consider all of them the same) How most altitude chambers work (and how they go about 'simulating' a hypoxic environment) Is there any evidence to support using simulated altitude training to protect against altitude sickness? The effectiveness of simulated altitude training for improving endurance, power and strength Is sleeping in a tent or training in a chamber better? The essential guidelines a mountaineer has to follow if sleeping in an altitude tent (plus several other factors they have to weigh up when considering this) My personal opinion on simulated altitude training for mountaineers (and when I recommend considering it in your preparations) Studies referenced in this episode: Intermittent altitude exposures reduce acute mountain sickness at 4300 m (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14561214) Sleeping in moderate hypoxia at home for prevention of acute mountain sickness (AMS): a placebo-controlled, randomized double-blind study (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24931591) Effect of acute exposure to moderate altitude on muscle power: hypobaric hypoxia vs. normobaric hypoxia. ( https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2547410) Effectiveness of preacclimatization strategies for high-altitude exposure. (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22653279) Comparison of the effect of intermittent hypoxic training vs. the live high, train low strategy on aerobic capacity and sports performance in cyclists in normoxia. (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30237660) The effects of intermittent hypoxic training on aerobic capacity and endurance performance in cyclists. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24149312 Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1483780 === Want to get fit, strong and resilient for your mountaineering adventures? Check out the Online Summit Program: https://www.summitstrength.com.au/online-mountaineer.html

Jul 5, 2020 • 28min
TFM6: Preventing Knee Pain For Mountaineers
Mountaineers face a high risk of knee pain, often due to ignorance about prevention strategies. Discover the anatomy behind knee pain and why mobility in hips and ankles is crucial. Learn about essential strength exercises like step downs and glute bridges to protect your knees. Find out how to manage your training workload wisely and adapt your exercise choices when in pain. Plus, dive into a practical Five-Day Knee Pain Challenge for effective strategies and exercises!

Jun 28, 2020 • 22min
TFM5: Stay Fit For Mountaineering All Year Round (Part One)
Discover a simple training system tailored for mountaineers aiming for year-round fitness. Learn how to maintain sustainable fitness levels without chasing 100% peak performance. Rowan shares insights on aerobic capacity, low-intensity long sessions, and effective recovery strategies. He emphasizes the role of higher-intensity cardio tailored specifically for mountaineering. Plus, find out how to seamlessly integrate your mountain trips into your training plan for optimal performance throughout the year.

Jun 21, 2020 • 15min
TFM4: The Benefits Of Strength Training For Mountaineers
Discover the essential role of strength training in mountaineering preparation! Learn how it can prevent injuries, enhance energy output, and improve performance at high altitudes. Delve into military studies that reveal how it boosts hiking speed and makes every step easier. Uncover the mental strength benefits that come with getting stronger. Plus, find out how to apply strength training effectively with structured programs, ensuring you’re ready for your next climb!

9 snips
Jun 14, 2020 • 21min
TFM3: Principles Of Endurance Training For Mountaineers
Explore the six essential principles of endurance training tailored for mountaineers. Discover why consistency is key and how to avoid common training pitfalls. Learn the importance of progressive overload and specific adaptations for your climbs. Understand how to build structural tolerance for long-term success and why mountaineers face unique challenges compared to marathon runners. This insightful discussion balances physical preparation with mental readiness, ensuring you're equipped for your next adventure.

Jun 10, 2020 • 11min
TFM2: Common Training Mistakes For Mountaineers
In this episode, I explore several common training mistakes I regularly see mountaineers make in their preparations. In this episode, you will learn: A common trap mountaineers find themselves in (this is particularly true if you come from an endurance sports background) A training myth which just does not seem to die for mountaineers (one which we really need to put to bed) One common-sense thing you need to avoid (which, unfortunately, many mountaineers are constantly struggling with) Why the 'always go hard' approach is a recipe for failure How to know if your high-intensity interval training is a positive or a negative in your preparations One type of program which is an absolute waste of time for mountaineers (plus how to identify this type of programming) == Want to get fit, strong and resilient for mountaineering? Check out the Online Summit Program: https://www.summitstrength.com.au/online-mountaineer.html

Jun 10, 2020 • 15min
TFM1: Four Pillars Of Physical Preparation For Mountaineers
In this episode, I explore four essential areas every mountaineer needs to be emphasizing in their training. For many mountaineers who are big into their training already, these pillars might be common sense (and I am going to be going much deeper on these subjects in future episodes). But as this is a brand new podcast, I need to cover the basics and foundations first, before we get too complicated. You will learn: The most critical aspect of fitness in a mountaineer's training An often-overlooked form of training which has huge benefits for mountaineers One area of training which can be a game-changer for a mountaineers risk of injury A type of training which is never given enough value in endurance sports (but can be the difference between success and failure) === Want to get fit, strong and resilient for your mountaineering adventures? Check out the Online Summit Program: https://www.summitstrength.com.au/online-mountaineer.html

Jun 10, 2020 • 8min
TFM0: Welcome To The Training For Mountaineering Podcast
Inside this introductory episode, you will learn who this podcast is for, who I am and what it is all about! The Training For Mountaineering Podcast is created to help mountaineers train and prepare for their bucket list adventures. Once a week, I am going to be sharing with you detailed and science-backed information around: Improving your physical performance for mountaineering Reducing your risk of pain and injury Nutrition for your training and the mountain Mental strength development and strategies The intention behind this podcast is to empower you to make intelligent and effective decisions around your physical preparation for your adventures. So you can get fit, strong and resilient for anything the mountain might throw at you. And, ultimately, give yourself the very best chance of a safe, enjoyable and successful adventure.


