Imran Amed, founder and editor-in-chief of The Business of Fashion, discusses the luxury fashion industry's severe crisis, comparing it to the Great Recession. He critiques unsustainable strategies like over-expansion and highlights the shift in consumer dynamics, especially in China and the growing potential in India. Amed emphasizes the untapped market of 'silver spenders' over 50 and the need for brands to embrace local talent. He advocates for innovation and culturally informed strategies to revitalize the luxury sector.
The luxury fashion industry is undergoing a significant crisis, driven by declining consumer confidence and a reliance on unsustainable business models.
An untapped opportunity exists in the 'silver spender' demographic, which brands can engage by addressing their specific needs and lifestyle changes.
Deep dives
Unprecedented Leadership Changes in Luxury Fashion
The luxury fashion industry is experiencing an unprecedented wave of leadership changes, affecting both creative and business roles. Major brands like Chanel, Dior, and Gucci are undergoing significant transitions as established leaders step down and new figures take on roles, often still reflecting a consistent demographic trend. While this turnover may be seen as a reckoning, it raises concerns about the lack of diversity among new appointees, especially in the creative sector. The ongoing shift in leadership is indicative of a broader industry struggle that requires fresh perspectives to navigate current challenges.
The Luxury Crisis and Market Changes
The luxury sector is facing a severe crisis reminiscent of the Great Recession, primarily driven by declining consumer confidence in China and a saturation of aspirational luxury markets. Many brands, having relied heavily on the Chinese market, are now grappling with slowing sales, exacerbated by excessive distribution and a consumer base that is becoming more discerning. Ethical considerations and a focus on sustainability are increasingly influencing consumer perceptions, with questions raised about the value and transparency of luxury products. This crisis may serve as a catalyst for innovation, forcing companies to redefine their offerings to remain competitive.
Overlooked Opportunity with Aging Consumers
A significant opportunity exists for the fashion industry to cater to 'silver spenders,' individuals over 50 who possess disposable income and are often overlooked in marketing strategies. This demographic has substantial purchasing power and changing lifestyles that brands could tap into by focusing on their specific needs and preferences. Notably, figures like Michelle Yeoh have become ambassadors for major brands, emphasizing that life doesn't end at 50 and showcasing the appeal of mature consumers. As the industry continues to navigate its challenges, recognizing and addressing the desires of this group could lead to new avenues for success.
Sustainability and Innovation Dilemmas
Sustainability remains a pressing issue within the fashion industry, yet many leaders show a concerning lack of urgency to adopt meaningful change. Despite widespread discussions, brands often prioritize short-term profitability over long-term commitments to environmental responsibility, reflecting an ongoing disconnect in the industry's approach to sustainable practices. The emergence of challenger brands, which prioritize innovation and culturally relevant strategies, suggests a shift that established players must recognize to remain competitive. As the market evolves, brands should reconsider their strategies to align with consumer expectations and societal demands for sustainability and creative solutions.
In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on The Rapid Response podcast.
“This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry since the Great Recession of 2008,” says Amed. “The business model and approach that the luxury industry has been using for the last decade or so is running out of steam.”
In their conversation, Amed and Safian discuss the cracks in the current luxury formula, the untapped potential in older demographics, and how brand and product innovation have the potential to revive the sector.
Key Insights:
Amed warns that the go-to strategies for luxury brands, such as over-expansion and relentless price hikes, are no longer sustainable. He highlights how the slowdown in Chinese consumer spending and a sharp drop in aspirational buyers who “gorged on luxury products during the pandemic” are exposing the cracks in this long-established playbook.
While the industry has long speculated on whether India might be ‘the next China,’ Amed believes real growth is finally within reach. Thanks to a flourishing middle class, improved retail infrastructure and widespread mobile internet, international brands are eyeing India’s vast consumer base with renewed interest. However, success demands culturally informed approaches: “The smart brands are going to really find the right talent, Indian local talent, and empower those leaders,” says Amed. “The Indian market is on the precipice of something really big but it’s not going to be easy.”
Amed acknowledges the widespread but often discreet adoption of artificial intelligence: “I think as with a lot of things AI, everybody’s using it, but not everyone’s talking about how they’re using it,” he said. However, he cautions that “to create something really, genuinely novel, interesting, disruptive, creative, and beautiful, a human has to be involved,” reminding brands that while AI can accelerate ideation, authentic creative vision remains the domain of designers themselves.
Amed believes the current turbulence will drive fashion leaders to rethink their strategies: “What’s exciting about a time like this is it forces companies to innovate because the market isn’t growing super fast anymore,” he said. He explains that to thrive under tougher conditions, businesses “have to take market share from someone else,” meaning it is no longer enough to repackage old ideas. Pointing to brands like Miu Miu and Brunello Cucinelli, which are still achieving significant growth, Amed sees promise in those who offer “something different and special,” rather than relying on the template approach that has dominated fashion in recent years.