Discover the fascinating world of human hair, as India emerges as the top exporter, providing 85% of global demand. Learn about the unique sources of Indian hair, from temple donations to salon cast-offs. Delve into the quality and types of wigs, and find out why China dominates the export market. Hear from drag artists on the cultural significance of wigs, and explore how social media is shaping trends and ethical considerations in hair sourcing. It's a captivating journey through a vibrant industry!
India's human hair industry, valued between 200 to 500 billion USD, sources hair primarily from temples and everyday collections, revealing a complex supply chain.
The growing demand for wigs, projected to rise from 7.5 billion to 12.5 billion USD, is influenced by social media and changing consumer attitudes.
Deep dives
The Journey of Human Hair Collection
India is the leading exporter of human hair, with its annual exports valued between 200 to 500 billion USD. The sources of this hair are largely surprising, as it comes from two main origins: temple donations and everyday collection from salons and even garbage. Many women, especially in rural areas, sell their hair, with temple hair being considered the highest quality due to its clean origins. This hair is auctioned off to manufacturers who create wigs, revealing a complex supply chain behind what may seem like a simple beauty accessory.
Quality and Types of Hair Used in Wigs
Wigs are produced from various types of hair, with Remy hair, collected cleanly from temples, being the most desirable. In contrast, non-Remy hair, collected from less hygienic sources, requires more intensive processing to untangle and clean. Notably, hair is often mixed, with many wigs on the market containing blends of both Indian and Chinese hair. This distinction in quality also affects the marketplace, as consumers are increasingly aware of the source and characteristics of the hair they purchase.
The Rising Demand for Wigs and Extensions
The demand for wigs and hair extensions is projected to grow significantly, with a market value expected to rise from 7.5 billion USD in 2024 to 12.5 billion USD within the next decade. This growth is propelled by changing attitudes towards wigs, with social media playing a crucial role in normalizing their use. A trend towards greater transparency surrounding wig use has emerged, particularly among influencers who showcase their hair journeys online. Moreover, increased accessibility and affordability have made wigs a popular choice for diverse styling needs, promoting further interest in the industry.
The global hair wig and extension market was valued at $7.5billion in 2024. Hair is big business - especially in India, which is the world’s biggest exporter of human hair, supplying 85% of global demand. Some comes from temples, where people shave off their hair as an act of devotion to the gods. It is then sold at auction. The rest comes from hair pickers who collect it from women’s combs, salons and even rubbish dumps.
Priti Gupta, a journalist in Mumbai, talks us through the Indian hair industry. We ask why Indian hair is so sought after - and why it’s China that’s leading the wig export market, instead of India.
BBC journalist Nadia Gyane explains where this hair ends up - and if customers know or care where their hair comes from? And drag artist Zeeshan Ali in Mumbai tells us why wigs are so important to their act.
Instagram: @bbcwhatintheworld
Email: whatintheworld@bbc.co.uk
WhatsApp: +44 330 12 33 22 6
Presenter: Hannah Gelbart
Producers: Mora Morrison, Elena Angelides and Julia Ross-Roy
Video Journalists: Baldeep Chahal and Kesewaa Browne
Editor: Verity Wilde
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