369: Yvan De Baets of Brasserie de la Senne and Eric Toft of Schönramer Talk Shop on European Hops
Jul 19, 2024
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Yvan de Baets and Eric Toft discuss challenges in sourcing European hops, building relationships with growers, and evaluating crop quality. They delve into climate impacts, harvest timing, and maintaining cold chain for hops. They also explore shifts in European drinking patterns and strategies for navigating market challenges in the beer industry.
European brewers adapt to climate change by evaluating hops terroir and maintaining cold chain quality.
Harvest timing crucial for preserving noble hop traits, highlighting the need for individual hop variety assessments.
Brewers focus on building direct relationships with growers, prioritizing quality over price negotiations and embracing new hop varieties.
Deep dives
Challenges and Excitement in Using European Hops
European hops present challenges in adapting to climate change and ensuring consistent quality. The hope lies in new hop varieties that can withstand environmental changes and maintain the desired flavors. The focus shifts towards hardier hops while preserving traditional noble aromas.
Importance of Terroir in Hop Selection
The terroir effect plays a crucial role in hop selection, influencing the flavor and aroma profiles. Factors like soil composition, microclimate, and harvesting timelines profoundly impact the quality of hops. Emphasizing terroir enables brewers to seek out unique flavors and maintain consistency.
Assessment and Selection of Hops
Brewers prioritize early hop selection based on terroir and microclimatic conditions. Critical factors like soil quality, orientation, and harvesting schedules define the flavor outcomes of hops. By carefully evaluating each batch for aroma and freshness, brewers ascertain the potential of hops in creating distinct beer profiles.
Brewing Process and Flavor Evaluation
After hop selection, hops undergo pelletization swiftly to preserve freshness and quality. Brewers conduct small batch trials to gauge flavor and aroma impacts before incorporating them into larger blends. Single hop variety brews help in assessing individual hop characteristics and fine-tuning flavor profiles.
Reflection on Challenges and Improvements in Brewing
The brewers acknowledge the challenges posed by climate change on hop agriculture, focusing on sustainable and resilient varieties. Emphasis is on developing hops that balance traditional noble flavors with enhanced adaptability. The commitment to continuous improvement and an unwavering attention to detail drives brewing excellence and flavor innovation.
Both Yvan De Baets, cofounder of Brasserie de la Senne in Brussels, and Eric Toft, brewmaster at Private Landbrauerei Schönram in Schönram, Germany, have appeared on the podcast in the past (episodes 162 and 244). However, for this special panel discussion—recorded live at the Senne brewery—we’ve brought them back to discuss a topic that’s increasingly front-of-mind for brewers around the world: the present and future of European hops.
Extreme heat and severe weather events have increased in frequency, often affecting the aroma and alpha-acid content of classic European-grown varieties and making it more difficult to source those of highest quality. Yet both De Baets and Toft have developed and deployed strategies not just to evaluate growers and track the progress of the crop each year, but also to understand the benefits and drawbacks of each new crop while hedging against risks.
In this episode, they discuss:
shifts in European drinking habits
declining contracted hops and hedging with overstock from previous harvest years
positive and negative traits when evaluating hops still on the bine
building deeper relationships directly with growers
avoiding the trap of negotiating on hop price
evaluating irrigation methods and field structure
harvest timing and its increasing impact on certain Noble varieties
testing and sensory for new-harvest hops
maintaining the cold chain from baling and storage through pelletizing
the biggest challenges and the biggest opportunities for European hops in the near term
And more!
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