E109: Matt Fultz - Sending multiple 8C+s, coaching, tactics and self-doubt
Aug 7, 2024
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Matt Fultz, a renowned climber known for sending multiple 8C+ boulders, shares his insights on climbing and self-doubt. He discusses his journey through mental challenges, emphasizing the importance of community support. The conversation also touches on unique climbing techniques and his experiences in places like Idaho and the Lake District. Matt reveals the intricacies of tackling problems like 'big Z' and offers valuable coaching tips on balancing technique and mental resilience. His humility shines as he reflects on the emotional impacts of climbing.
Matt Fultz highlights the importance of mental resilience in climbing, emphasizing that a focus on the process can enhance motivation.
He discusses the significance of a balanced training regimen that incorporates both strength training and practical climbing skills for performance improvement.
Matt underscores the role of nutrition in climbing success, advocating for a healthy lifestyle to complement physical training and facilitate recovery.
The podcast emphasizes the value of community and camaraderie among climbers as essential for personal growth and knowledge sharing in the sport.
Deep dives
Matt Foltz's Climbing Accomplishments
Matt Foltz is recognized as one of the leading boulderers in the climbing community, with an impressive achievement of having climbed eight V16 or harder problems, a notable feat that few climbers can claim. During the podcast, he highlights his experience with the V16 problem known as Big Z, showcasing not only his talent but also his modesty regarding such accolades. His unique stature of 5'11” and over 75 kilograms stands out in the climbing world, especially as he specializes in techniques typically associated with smaller climbers. Matt's versatility extends beyond bouldering as he is also a coach, incorporating various aspects of climbing and nutrition into his coaching business with his wife, Haley.
Life in Idaho and Climbing Community
Matt discusses his recent move to Idaho, where he finds a balance between quality outdoor climbing and family life. The local climbing scene, while not as prominent as in places like Colorado, presents Matt with opportunities to explore while also allowing him to contribute to a growing community. He expresses enthusiasm about uncovering new boulders and projects in the vast areas of Idaho, where he often ventures into the forest to discover potential climbing spots. This aspect aligns with his excitement for adventure and exploration, reflecting his passion not only for climbing but for the natural landscape surrounding him.
Climbing Techniques and Personal Training Philosophy
In the conversation, Matt emphasizes the importance of a balanced training approach that includes both outdoor climbing and off-wall strength training. He notes that while focusing on strength training can benefit climbers, what truly matters is how those gains translate to real climbing performance. Matt also discusses the significance of technique and tactics, especially for climbers with extensive experience who may be less prone to making profound progress without the right guidance. By encouraging communication and video analyses in his coaching, he helps clients recognize their progress and refine their climbing methods.
Nutritional Guidance and Body Composition
Matt sheds light on the role that nutrition plays in climbing performance, particularly as he works closely with his wife Haley, a nutritionist. He addresses how climbers, particularly those at the higher end of the weight spectrum, often need to consider their body composition when attempting to climb at their fullest potential. Matt's insights reveal that proper nutrition and understanding one's dietary needs are essential not just for climbing but for overall well-being and recovery. He positions the importance of maintaining a healthy lifestyle alongside climbing pursuits, advocating for a balanced approach that includes both physical training and nutritional education.
Mindset and Projection in Climbing
The podcast delves into the psychological aspects of climbing, particularly the mindset required for projecting difficult problems. Matt acknowledges that mental resilience is just as vital as physical training, and he draws attention to the challenges that come with high expectations and potential disappointments. He stresses the value of focusing on the process, discovery, and small victories rather than fixating solely on achieving specific grades. This approach not only keeps motivation high but also fosters a sustainable passion for climbing.
Innovations in Madrock Climbing Shoes
Matt speaks to the recent advancements in Madrock climbing shoes, particularly since the introduction of their drone model. He praises the improvements and innovative designs that enhance both performance and comfort for climbers. His input regarding the soft midsole and adjustments for better smearing capabilities in the new shoe called the Villains reflects his attention to the nuanced needs of different climbing styles. With personal experience testing these shoes across various climbing types, he expresses enthusiasm for Madrock's commitment to evolving their products to meet the demands of climbers.
Embracing Climbing Challenges and Community
The podcast highlights the climbing community's significance, with Matt underscoring the need for camaraderie among climbers to push personal limits. He discusses his experiences with tall climbers who may struggle with niche problems but emphasizes the importance of embracing diverse skill sets within climbing. The conversation also touches upon the evolving dynamics in climbing, as athletes find ways to support each other and share knowledge through coaching and community forums. By connecting with fellow climbers, Matt hopes to inspire others to explore their potential while fostering an environment that values effort over grades.
Reflections on Personal Training Journeys
In concluding the podcast, Matt reflects on his personal climbing journey and the insights gained throughout his experiences. He discusses the balance of personal growth and the sharing of knowledge as both a climber and a coach. The importance of recognizing individual progress and celebrating successes in climbing, regardless of grades, resonates throughout the conversation. He encourages listeners to remain committed and open to learning, as the climbing journey is not solely defined by completing difficult problems but also by the relationships and lessons forged along the way.
Big hitter Matt Fultz joins us this week. Matt's climbing resume speaks for itself, he's near the very top of the list when it comes to sending 8C+ boulders. He's achieved a huge amount and yet still it was fascinating to hear that he is not immune to the same moments of self doubt that the rest of us experience. Matt's a great guy and it was a pleasure to have him on the pod, we chat about a full range of stuff and could have chatted for hours longer but there's only so much of Matt's precious time we could ask for!
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