Marianne Martin, creative perfumer and president of the British Society of Perfumers, discusses transitioning careers, collaborating with different perspectives, edible perfumes and flavor crossovers, exploring woody and herbal ingredients in flavors, high impact sulfur and pyrazine, challenges in making sustainable materials, debating the impact of organic food, and a fascinating discussion on the world of flavors.
Flavorists use aromatic chemicals like jasmine absolute and violet absolute to enhance and add complexity to flavors based on desired sensory experiences.
Perfumery is regulated by IFRA, which sets safe levels of exposure for fragrance materials, allowing perfumers more freedom in their creations compared to flavorists.
High impact ingredients like sulfur and pyrazines create bold flavors, but their stability and compatibility with perfumery formulations may present challenges.
Deep dives
Use of Aromatic Chemicals in Flavors
Flavorists often make use of aromatic chemicals, such as jasmine absolute and violet absolute, in their flavor creations. Jasmine absolute can be used to impart musky notes and long-lasting effects in fruit flavors, while violet absolute provides a unique fatty and green characteristic. These ingredients are used to enhance and add complexity to flavors, and their use is related to the desired sensory experience rather than their natural associations.
Regulations in Perfumery
Perfumery is regulated by the International Fragrance Organization (IFRA), which sets safe levels of exposure for fragrance materials. These safe levels are determined based on the intended use of the fragrance, with different categories and sub-categories having specific limits. IFRA ensures that perfumes comply with these regulations to ensure consumer safety. However, regulations in perfumery are generally considered less stringent compared to flavors, allowing perfumers more freedom in their creations.
Exploring High Impact Ingredients
Flavorists are admired for their expertise in using high impact ingredients, such as sulfur and pyrazines, to create bold and impactful flavors. These ingredients can have a strong sensory impact, adding richness and depth to flavor profiles. While perfumers may not use these ingredients as frequently, the stability and compatibility of these compounds with perfumery formulations may present challenges. However, their potential to enhance fragrance compositions shouldn't be overlooked.
The Changing Gender Landscape in Perfumery and Flavorist Industries
The podcast explores the shift in gender representation in the fields of perfumery and flavor science. It highlights the fact that while there is now more gender parity in the flavorist industry, there is still progress to be made in the perfumery realm. The guest shares their own experience of being questioned about their suitability for the role based on gender when they first entered the industry. The podcast also touches on scientific research that suggests women generally have better olfactory abilities and retain their sense of smell for longer than men. This discussion emphasizes the importance of diversity and gender balance in these industries.
The Challenges of Finding Experienced Women in Flavor and Fragrance Industries
The podcast hosts express their difficulty in finding experienced female flavorists and perfumers to interview and learn from. They discuss the gap in generational experiences and the need for more representation and visibility of women in these sensory industries. The conversation explores the idea of mentorship and the lack of accessible role models for young professionals entering the fields of flavor and fragrance. The hosts express their desire to create opportunities for experienced women to share their knowledge and insights with the industry's younger generation.
Listen to a new episode of Flavour Talks, this time with Marianne Martin, creative perfumer and president of the British Society of Perfumers. Marianne’s perfumery and chemistry experience spans nearly 50 years in the fragrance industry. She is a respected perfumery tutor with a global outlook, known for her perfumery teaching in the courses for the Society of Cosmetic Scientists. This exciting podcast is discussing topics from both flavourist and perfumer perspective.
