Fuchsia Dunlop, an expert on Chinese cuisine, discusses her journey from cooking classes to writing her 7th book. She talks about the challenges of studying and understanding Chinese culture through food. Topics include corruption, environmental degradation in China, debates on representation, and her surprising career success.
Chinese food is endlessly fascinating due to China's rich gastronomic culture, which spans over 2000 years, offering incredible diversity and flavors.
Exploring Chinese food allows a deeper understanding of Chinese culture, including art, literature, ideas, and philosophies surrounding food.
Deep dives
Fuchsia Dunlop's Journey into Chinese Food Culture
Fuchsia Dunlop, a renowned chronicler of Chinese food culture, discusses her lifelong exploration of Chinese food ways and her new book. Growing up in England, Dunlop had little exposure to authentic Chinese cuisine. It was only when she traveled to China that she became completely smitten with Chinese food. She studied Mandarin, received a scholarship to study in China, and chose Chengdu as her destination, known for its Sichuan cuisine. Through her experiences, she immersed herself in local restaurants, learned to cook in Sichuan kitchens, and trained as a chef. Dunlop's mission is to encourage people outside China to take Chinese food seriously and appreciate its depth. Her writing aims to be objective, stepping out of a Western perspective and understanding food from a Chinese point of view. She acknowledges the importance of representation in food writing but believes that diversity should be valued at a larger level. Throughout her career, Dunlop has written several books, consulted for Chinese restaurants, and nurtured enduring friendships in the Chinese food community.
Discovering the Fascination of Chinese Food
For Fuchsia Dunlop, Chinese food is endlessly fascinating due to China's rich gastronomic culture, which spans over 2000 years. The diversity of Chinese cuisine, with its different regions, terrains, produce, and cooking traditions, ensures that one can never get bored with it. Chinese food is immensely delicious, as the people have a remarkable understanding of transforming ingredients into flavorful dishes. Additionally, exploring Chinese food has allowed Dunlop to delve into a deeper understanding of Chinese culture as a whole. Through her work, she has developed friendships, gained an appreciation for Chinese art and literature, and discovered more about Chinese ideas and philosophies surrounding food.
Writing, Consulting, and Representing Chinese Food
Fuchsia Dunlop's journey into writing about Chinese food started unexpectedly, driven by her love for cooking and a fascination with Sichuan cuisine. She was surprised to find a lack of English resources about Chinese food, particularly Sichuan cuisine, and felt compelled to bring this culinary tradition to a broader audience. Her mission was to encourage people to take Chinese food seriously and appreciate its depth and sophistication. Dunlop's writing and recipes aim to honor the cuisine and resonate with both foreigners and those associated with the region. While she has occasionally faced criticism regarding cultural appropriation, her diligent research and objective approach have generally been well-received. Over the years, Dunlop has consulted for Chinese restaurants, worked closely with Chinese chefs to better understand their techniques and perspectives, and built a diverse community of individuals interested in Chinese food.
This week on Special Sauce, we’ll hear about Fuchsia Dunlop’s journey from her first Chinese cooking classes to the researching and writing of her 7th book, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food. We'll find out what she's learned about the country's history and culture in her many years of exploring Chinese cuisine, and why she says she'll never get bored of eating and writing about Chinese food.
