E74: Billy Ridal and Alex Waterhouse free climb the nose!
Nov 29, 2023
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Billy Ridal and Alex Waterhouse, two retired comp climbers, talk about their fantastic adventure in Yosemite, including their decision to free climb the nose on El Cap. They discuss transitioning between climbing scenes, differences in grading systems, preparing for a big wall climb, and the challenges of climbing the Great Roof. They also explore the similarities between competition bouldering and climbing in Yosemite, overcoming the challenges of rain and changing corners, and the discomforts of using makeshift bathrooms while climbing.
Billy and Alex, primarily competition climbers, successfully free climbed the famous Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite.
The climb presented challenges including route finding, rope management, and physical demands of sustained pitches on big walls.
The popularity of the Nose route led to occasional congestion and required respectful communication and coordination with other climbers.
Billy and Alex faced physical and logistical challenges but were determined to complete the climb, culminating in their ascent of the iconic Nose route.
The podcast episode explores the unique pressure and satisfaction of big wall climbing, as well as the emotions and experiences of reaching the summit.
Deep dives
Main Idea 1
Billy and Alex set out to free climb the famous Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite, despite being primarily competition climbers with limited big wall experience. Their ambitious goal attracted support from the climbing community and they documented their entire journey, from training for competitions to embarking on the challenging climb.
Main Idea 2
The climb of the Nose on El Capitan presented various challenges, including route finding, rope management, and the physical demands of climbing sustained pitches on big walls. While they had some preparatory sessions on changing corners and the great roof, both pitches proved physically exhausting and required careful footwork and intricate sequences.
Main Idea 3
The Nose route on El Capitan is highly popular among aid climbers, but free climbing it remains a rare endeavor. While the route attracts many parties attempting big wall ascents, only a few groups, like Billy and Alex, take on the challenge of free climbing it. The popularity of the route led to occasional congestion and required respectful communication and coordination with other climbers.
Main Idea 4
Despite facing physical and logistical challenges, Billy and Alex were determined to complete the climb. They spent multiple days working on the changing corners and great roof pitches. While they made progress and gained confidence, they recognized the limited time available and decided to go for the push, even though they hadn't fully linked the difficult sections. This marked the culmination of their preparation and the beginning of their ascent of the iconic Nose route.
Great Roof: A Successful Push
After facing rain and challenging conditions, both climbers successfully navigate the Great Roof section, a significant milestone in their ascent.
Changing Corners: A Battle of Endurance
One climber struggles to complete the Changing Corners pitch, trying multiple times and enduring physical and psychological challenges while the other climber offers support and encouragement.
A Day of Rest and Reflection
With one climber having completed Changing Corners, they spend a day at Camp 6 contemplating their next moves and mentally preparing for another attempt the following day.
A Hard-fought Victory
After multiple attempts, the other climber successfully completes Changing Corners, marking a significant achievement and setting the stage for the final pitches towards the summit.
Challenging the Limits: Overcoming Pressure and Embracing Competition
The podcast episode discusses the experience of climbing a challenging big wall and recreating a competition scenario. The speaker shares how big wall climbing provided a unique form of pressure and a sense of satisfaction. They highlight the contrast between the uncertain challenges of regular competitions and the clear, consistent goals of big wall climbing. The speaker also reflects on the dangers of complacency and the importance of staying focused and vigilant, sharing a personal experience of a near-miss on the wall due to a momentary lapse of attention.
The Joys and Ordeals of Summiting and Descent
The podcast episode delves into the emotions and experiences of reaching the summit of the big wall. The speaker describes the exhilarating final pitch, showcasing the different style of climbing and the joy of overcoming challenges. They also touch upon the laborious process of descending and packing up the gear, highlighting how the euphoria of the accomplishment is juxtaposed with the demanding physical tasks. The episode concludes with a lighthearted discussion about the unique realities of bodily functions and hygiene while on the wall.
Very exciting episode for your listening pleasure this week as Alex and Billy, two previous guests, return to talk us through their fantastic adventure in Yosemite. Not many people believed two retired comp climbers who've barely done a multi-pitch between them could wander over to Yosemite and free climb a thing that has still to this day only seen a handful of free ascents.
Come hear all about it!
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