Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Episode #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2)

Jun 1, 2018

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Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes.

1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol?

5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual fingers by suspending a light free weight from a sling a useful technique?

10:40 - Question #3 - What days should I do supplemental training if climbing four days per week (combined outside and indoors)?

14:47 - Question #4 - Belaying and rehab advice for recovering for a climber returning from a broken wrist?

17:37 - Question #5 - Training recommendations for a 50-something climber with extensive background in weight lifting and running?

26:30 - Question #6 - Advice on dealing with...and hopefully recovering from medial elbow tendinopathy?

31:00 - Question #7 - My anaerobic endurance (power output) drops sharply at 40 to 45 seconds into hard, sustained climbing--how can I train to improve my anaerobic capacity?

37:51 - Question #8 - Can you recommend some pre-workout foods and give advice on what to eat at the crags? Also, how much protein should I eat each day?

44:20 - Question #9 - Mother asks Eric's training advice for her 12-year-old daughter...a nationally-ranked boulderer. What's the best training approach?

49:35 - Question #10 - How to organize training when you have a hangboard at home, but your access to a training/bouldering wall is at a gym without a hangboard?

52:10 - Wrap up...How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of "Ask Coach Horst". Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned "Ask Coach Horst" podcast.

NOTE: I'll record the next episode of Ask Coach Horst in late July for release in early August. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, and years climbing.