E84: Ben Moon - One of Britain's greatest ever climbers talking about his career, getting put into a headlock by Jerry Moffat and Victorian trains
Feb 14, 2024
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Ben Moon, one of Britain's greatest climbers, discusses his career, training, and the birth of sport climbing. They also explore climbing media in the 1980s, controversy over using knee bars on historical routes, and the challenges of climbing at your limit. The conversation touches on the evolution of climbing holds, UK's infrastructure, and 3D scanning and printing. They conclude with updates on the Moonboard app and tips for training and climbing goals.
Ben Moon made significant contributions to the climbing community, from pioneering training for bouldering to embracing elimination-style climbing.
Climbing competitions in the 1980s had decent prize money and fostered a sense of friendly competitiveness among climbers, but prize money and support have decreased over the years.
Ben Moon shifted his focus from sport climbing to bouldering in 1993, exploring limestone and gritstone areas and finding inspiration in board climbing.
Ben Moon's passion for climbing, his boldness, and his pioneering spirit have left a lasting legacy in the climbing community, inspiring generations of climbers and shaping the sport today.
Deep dives
Ben Moon's Climbing Journey and Contributions
Ben Moon, an iconic British climber, shares his climbing journey and contributions to the sport. He started climbing during his teenage years and quickly became known for his boldness and strength. Moon was part of a group that pioneered training for bouldering, using homemade boards in their garages. He made significant contributions to the sport, including his ascent of Hubble, the first proposed 9A route at the time. Moon's climbing style transitioned from sport climbing to bouldering in the 1990s, focusing on limestone and gritstone. He also embraced elimination-style climbing, pushing the limits and finding creative solutions. Throughout his career, Moon's passion for climbing and his pioneering spirit have made him a beloved figure in the climbing community.
The Evolution of Climbing Competitions
Moon reflects on the evolution of climbing competitions during his career. He participated in some of the early competitions in the 1980s, which had decent prize money. Back then, comps were featured in magazines, and there was a sense of friendly competitiveness among the climbers. However, Moon notes that prize money and support for climbers have decreased over the years, despite the sport's growth in popularity. He recalls the excitement and camaraderie of the early competitions and the positive impact they had on his climbing journey.
Transition to Bouldering and Board Climbing
In 1993, Moon shifted his focus from sport climbing to bouldering. He began training on homemade boards, which eventually led to the creation of dedicated boards like the ones at the school room. Moon's passion for bouldering grew, and he explored limestone and gritstone areas, searching for new challenges. He reflects on the fun and excitement of board climbing, noting how it allowed climbers to train consistently and improve their skills. Moon's shift to bouldering opened up new possibilities and sparked new inspirations in his climbing journey.
Reflections on His Climbing Legacy
Throughout his climbing career, Ben Moon's contributions, boldness, and pioneering spirit have left a lasting legacy in the climbing community. From his early days pushing the limits of sport climbing to his transition to bouldering and board climbing, Moon brought innovation and a unique style to the sport. He remains a beloved figure, respected for his achievements and his impact on training and climbing techniques. Moon's passion for climbing and his ability to find new challenges have inspired generations of climbers and continue to shape the sport today.
Tips for Longevity in Climbing
To maintain longevity in climbing, it is important to be consistent and train regularly. Focus on strength as it tends to decline with age. Even minimal training is better than no training at all. Aim to climb at least three times a week if possible.
The MoonBoard App Updates
There are more updates planned for the MoonBoard app, including features like filtering holds by least used or most used. These updates will be released in the coming months.
Running a Business
Running a business has its challenges, but it can also be enjoyable. The creative aspect of designing products and working with a team can be fulfilling. Time management and balancing various responsibilities can be difficult, but with a passion for the business, it becomes easier to navigate the ups and downs.
The Future of Climbing Goals
There are no specific climbing goals in mind for the future. Climbing will always be a part of his life, and whether indoors or outdoors, it will continue to bring enjoyment and social connections. Goals may evolve and change, but the love for climbing remains constant.
It was a treat to have living legend Ben Moon on the pod this week. A lot of ground covered in an absolutely whistle-stop tour of Ben's career and replete with a fine selection of totally random tangents and rambles. Bailing from O levels because of too much physics, dossing in a cave, the birth of sport climbing, training and board climbing, how comps paid better in the 80s than they do today. It's a chat that goes all over and it was great fun for us so I hope it makes for a good listen.
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