Kyra Condie: How to Perform When It Counts, Simple Training for Strength and Power, and Comp Climbing News

May 21, 2025

Kyra Condie, an elite climber and Olympian, dives deep into her experiences and strategies for success. She shares her struggles with performance anxiety and the lessons learned from injuries, including scoliosis. Kyra discusses training techniques like campusing and her effective hangboard routine. She also highlights the importance of skin care for climbers and tells intriguing stories from her competition experiences. Finally, Kyra provides insights into the evolving landscape of climbing competitions and the quest for sponsorships in the climbing world.

Ask episode

AI Snips

Chapters

Transcript

Episode notes

ANECDOTE

Meaning Behind Kyra's Tattoo

Kyra got the tattoo "You suck, try harder" from an old gym crew motto that embraced hard work despite struggles.
It symbolizes her grit, belonging, and training philosophy, not self-criticism.

ANECDOTE

Kyra's Spinal Fusion Story

Kyra had severe adolescent scoliosis requiring spinal fusion from T2-T12 during her growth spurt.
This limits spinal extension and side bending, affecting her climbing moves and style.

INSIGHT

Strength Compensates for Mobility Limits

Kyra focuses on building strength to overcome limitations imposed by her back condition.
This explains her powerful climbing style compared to a more flexible, bending style.

Get the Snipd Podcast app to discover more snips from this episode

Get the app

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this episode, elite climber Kyra Condie explores:

"You suck try harder"
Spray walls vs system boards
Struggles with modern comp setting
The power of the campus board
Her super simple hang board routine
Game changing skin care tips
Tools to handle performance anxiety
How to up/down regulate for a specific objective
Updates from the World Cup and Olympic formats
The elusive million dollar climbing sponsorship
What even are the grades of comp climbs?

CHAPTERS:

Struggle: (0:05:48)
Training: (0:15:53)
Nutrition: (0:38:31)
Tactics: (0:47:23)
Mental Game: (0:57:19)
Purpose: (1:27:58)

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

Check out Kyra's YouTube channel, and the Circle Up! Podcast she does with Allison vest.

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!