Eating Korean Food and Writing Books with Tien Nguyen
Nov 15, 2023
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Food writer and Korean cuisine expert Tien Nguyen discusses co-writing a Korean cookbook, the special connection to Sundo-boo restaurant, the role of food in conflict and recognition, the concept of 'Son Ma' in cooking, the influence of Korean cuisine in Los Angeles, and opinions on pizza and being a co-writer.
The cookbook 'Son Mat: Recipes and Flavors of Korean Home Cooking' showcases the personal connection and collaboration behind the recipes from the Los Angeles restaurant Beverly Soon Tofu.
The podcast emphasizes the importance of clear and respectful naming conventions in culinary terms and dishes, highlighting the need for accurate nomenclature and recognizing co-writers in cookbooks.
Deep dives
The Cookbook Collaboration: Son Mat and Beverly Soon Tofu
The podcast episode features an interview with food writer Tin Win, co-author of the cookbook 'Son Mat: Recipes and Flavors of Korean Home Cooking.' The book showcases recipes from the beloved Los Angeles restaurant Beverly Soon Tofu. Tin Win shares her personal connection to the restaurant and explains how the collaboration for the book came about. The episode emphasizes the significance of Son Mat, a term meaning 'flavor in the fingertips' or 'flavor in the hands,' which represents the ability to intuitively taste and adjust flavors while cooking. The discussion also touches upon the popularity of Korean barbecue, the different cuts of meat used in Korean cuisine such as Galbi, and the variations in its names, including L.A. Galbi and Miami Ribs.
The Controversy Surrounding L.A. Galbi's Name
The episode delves into the debate surrounding the origin and meaning of the term 'L.A. Galbi.' While some believe it stands for 'lateral axis' or 'lateral cut' referring to how the meat is sliced, the podcast dismisses these theories and suggests that it likely refers to Los Angeles where the cooking style of L.A. Galbi originated. The discussion also mentions other names such as Miami Ribs, used in Jewish culinary traditions and associated with L.A. Galbi, and the use of the term Maui Ribs in Canada, which has caused confusion but is unrelated to the Hawaiian region.
The Importance of Co-Writing Cookbooks
The podcast highlights the role of co-writers in cookbooks and the importance of giving credit to co-writers in the publishing process. The guest, Tin Win, emphasizes the value of being credited as a co-writer and the challenges that arise in negotiating for appropriate recognition. The conversation touches on the significance of accurate nomenclature and the historical context in culinary terms and dishes, emphasizing the need for clear and respectful naming conventions.
The Diversity and Approachability of Korean Cuisine
The episode explores the wide range and approachability of Korean cuisine beyond Korean barbecue. It notes that Korean cuisine is often associated with barbecued meat, but emphasizes that it is a diverse and well-rounded culinary tradition featuring many vegetable-based dishes. It also highlights the importance of taste-testing and adaptability in Korean cooking and provides insights into the culinary philosophy of Beverly Soon Tofu, known for its emphasis on flavor and creating a welcoming dining experience.