The Story

How to buy a happy chicken

Apr 8, 2025
Harry Wallop, a columnist and feature writer for The Times, discusses the UK's chicken obsession, diving into fresh insights on welfare standards. He highlights the ongoing shift toward slower-growing chickens that promise better living conditions. The conversation touches on the cultural significance of chicken shops like Morley's and their role as community hubs, while also addressing the economics of ethical chicken production. Wallop unveils the challenges of raising backyard chickens, juxtaposing idealized visions with harsh realities.
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ANECDOTE

Chicken Shops as Social Hubs

  • Harry Wallop investigated the UK's chicken obsession by focusing on chicken shops.
  • He observed their prevalence and social dynamics, comparing them to pre-WWI pubs as gathering spaces.
INSIGHT

Chicken's Rise to Prominence

  • In the 1950s-60s, chicken was a rare and expensive treat in Britain, primarily used for egg production, not meat.
  • A 1958 market research survey showed only 1% of households ate poultry for Sunday roast.
INSIGHT

The Chicken of Tomorrow

  • The 1948 "Chicken of Tomorrow" contest revolutionized chicken farming.
  • It aimed to create faster-growing, meatier chickens, leading to the breeds dominant in today's supermarkets.
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