The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E150: Ben Norman and Cailean Harker - Route setting deep dive, grades in indoor climbing and the state of the industry
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May 28, 2025 Ben Norman and Cailean Harker, co-founders of Impact Route Setting and seasoned route setters in the UK, share insights about the climbing industry. They delve into the nuances of indoor grading and the impact of recent IFSC scoring changes on route setting. The duo emphasizes the importance of creativity and safety in route design while navigating the evolving expectations of climbers. They also tackle the balance between aesthetics and functionality in climbing holds, and reflect on fostering inclusivity in climbing experiences for all skill levels.
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Balancing Styles for Diverse Climbers
- Modern route setting balances different climbing styles for diverse climbers.
- Outdoor climbing backgrounds influence indoor route setting preferences and strategies.
Climbing Boom Stretches Route Setters
- Rapid climbing wall growth stretched the pool of experienced route setters thin.
- Many setters were pushed into management roles too soon, needing more mentoring.
Embrace Feedback As A Team
- Route setters should embrace critique and work collaboratively to improve climbs.
- Let go of ego during testing as boulders become a team effort.