The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

E154: Austin Hoyt - The King of the North-East, Comp moves on rock and Lucid Dreaming

15 snips
Jun 25, 2025
Austin Hoyt, a former competition climber and rock-wonder from the Northeast, dives into the thriving climbing culture of his region. He shares insights on local legends and burgeoning talent, revealing unique techniques like the coordination double clutch. The conversation takes a twist as they discuss Finland’s lesser-known bouldering opportunities. Austin reflects on the balance between competition and outdoor climbing, emphasizing community dynamics and emotional bonds among climbers. Get ready for an inspiring and fun journey through the rocks of the Northeast!
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INSIGHT

Northeast Climbers' Migration Insight

  • The northeast USA has produced strong climbers but many moved away to climbing hubs.
  • Staying there is rare, but it also fosters unique development and advocacy for the area.
ANECDOTE

Finland Trip To Explore Burden

  • Austin and Adam traveled to Finland to predict if Lucid Dreaming's project Burden was worth pursuing.
  • They found the rock quality varied, but Burden itself was surprisingly pristine and challenging.
INSIGHT

Burden's Outsize Impact On Finland

  • Finland's bouldering reputation overly centers on Burden, overshadowing other quality boulders.
  • Its flat, forested landscape makes finding boulders tricky, relying on hunting maps.
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