André Prince Jeffries, the owner of Prince's Hot Chicken, shares her family's 40-year legacy in Nashville’s hot chicken scene. She discusses how the dish rose to fame while highlighting its roots in the Black community that created it. The conversation tackles the troubling dynamics of appropriation, revealing how big chefs benefit from a dish steeped in cultural history. André also reflects on the challenges faced by family-run establishments in a landscape filled with imitators, emphasizing the importance of recognizing the dish's true origins.
Nashville hot chicken, with roots in the Black community, highlights the ongoing struggles of cultural appropriation amid rising popularity.
The evolution of Prince's Hot Chicken from a local institution to a tourist phenomenon raises questions about equity and ownership in culinary trends.
Deep dives
The Origins of Hot Chicken
Nashville hot chicken originated from the Prince family in the 1930s, with Thornton Prince's infamous creation stemming from a vengeful act by a girlfriend who coated his fried chicken in spicy hot sauce. Rather than repelled, Prince became obsessed with the flavor and set out to recreate the recipe, leading to the establishment of the Prince's Hot Chicken Shack in 1945. Over the decades, the dish remained a cherished secret within Nashville's Black community, unknown to many outside until recently. This lack of recognition contributed to a cultural narrative that emphasizes the importance of preserving and honoring its Black roots.
The Hot Chicken Boom
In the last 15 years, Nashville hot chicken has surged in popularity, with new restaurants popping up across the country and even traditional chains like KFC adding it to their menus. This boom has significantly benefited Prince's, with the establishment evolving into a community staple and attracting tourists and celebrities alike. However, this phenomenon has also given rise to numerous new, well-funded eateries, often owned by white entrepreneurs eager to capitalize on the trend. This raises questions about equity, as the original creators of the dish grapple with the consequences of a trend they pioneered.
Cultural and Racial Dynamics
The history of hot chicken is fraught with complex racial dynamics, particularly concerning who benefits from its rising popularity. While Andre Prince Jeffries, a descendant of the original creators, has seen an uptick in business, she recognizes that many new competitors lack the culinary heritage behind the dish. The conversation surrounding cultural appropriation is particularly relevant as white-owned restaurants flourish while Black-owned establishments often struggle to secure funding and expand. Despite this challenging landscape, Prince's remains a beloved local spot that continues to honor its heritage through its dedicated service and recipe.
Personal Connection to Hot Chicken
Anthony Bourdain, Bill Purcell, and other notable figures have embraced the unique flavors of hot chicken, contributing to its cult status. Personal stories from loyal customers highlight how hot chicken serves as a communal experience, bringing together diverse groups who share a love for the dish. The juxtaposition of long-time Nashville residents with recent newcomers illustrates how food can serve as a bridge across cultural divides. Yet, despite its newfound recognition, many patrons still view Prince's as the authentic experience, reinforcing the importance of remembering the dish's origins while enjoying its modern iterations.
In the last 15 years, Nashville hot chicken has become a hot trend. But for decades before that, hot chicken was well known among Nashville’s Black community. For generations, you could only get it at the place where it was invented: Prince’s Hot Chicken. Now with attention from the likes of Beyoncé and Guy Fieri, Prince’s has gone from being a neighborhood institution to a Nashville landmark — and many imitators have come along. Dan travels to Nashville and speaks with André Prince Jeffries, who’s been running Prince’s for more than 40 years. She talks about Nashville’s history of segregation, serving members of the KKK, and the complicated racial dynamics behind this food trend. When white chefs and restaurateurs cash in on a dish created by Black people, who benefits?
This episode originally aired on October 4, 2021, and was produced by Dan Pashman, Anne Saini, Emma Morgenstern, Andrés O’Hara, Daisy Rosario and Peter Clowney, with editing help from Dan Charles. This episode was mixed by Casey Holford and Jared O’Connell. The Sporkful team now includes Dan Pashman, Emma Morgenstern, Andres O'Hara, Nora Ritchie, and Jared O'Connell. This update was produced by Gianna Palmer. Publishing by Shantel Holder.
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