This Is TASTE 643: Union Square Cafe at 40 with Danny Meyer
Aug 22, 2025
Danny Meyer, the visionary restaurateur and CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group, shares insights on the 40th anniversary of his flagship, Union Square Cafe, recounting its storied past and legendary customers. Lena Ciardullo, the cafe's executive chef, discusses her journey, emphasizing seasonal cooking and community. They explore the challenges of relocating the beloved restaurant, the evolution of restaurant criticism in the digital age, and the unique identity of New York Italian cuisine, all while highlighting the importance of relationships in the culinary world.
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Humble, Chaotic Opening Night
- Danny Meyer recounts nervous early nights at Union Square Cafe and the shaky kitchen service that followed opening.
- He turned small failures into charm, using a malfunctioning refrigerator as a “medicine cabinet” to soothe unhappy guests.
From Harsh Review To Triumph
- Early criticism stung but galvanized improvement, from a snarky one-dot review to later two- and three-star praise from Brian Miller.
- Meyer wrote critics directly and invited them to watch the restaurant evolve rather than expecting instant perfection.
Designing For Inclusion Over Exclusivity
- Meyer designed Union Square Cafe to be an inclusive club where regulars and newcomers coexist at fair prices.
- He prioritized accessibility over squeezing extra margin, believing loyal guests return for consistent value.
