Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing

Apr 11, 2024

Join Eric Hörst as he contrasts his route climbing workout with top boulderer Drew Ruana's intense bouldering session. Discover the differences in training for bouldering vs. route climbing, focusing on energy systems. Learn about Drew's unique limit boulder training on his home woodie for maximum gains. Whether you climb boulders or routes, this analysis will engage climbers of all levels.

35:01

Creator website

Episode guests

Drew Ruana

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Quick takeaways

Route climbing training focuses on climbing volume to develop aerobic energy system through sub-maximal climbs for sustained effort.

Bouldering training targets anaerobic system with short, intense efforts for peak power and static strength.

Deep dives

Training for Route Climbing: Developing the Aerobic Energy System

The podcast discusses a route climbing session at the G1 gym focusing on climbing volume to develop the aerobic energy system. The climbers aimed to climb sub-maximal terrain for about 3 hours to encourage blood flow, trigger angiogenesis, and enhance capillary density and mitochondria efficiency. By climbing routes well within their capabilities and maintaining an effort level of around 5-7 out of 10, they predominantly powered their climbing moves through the aerobic energy system.

Anaerobic System Training for Bouldering Performance

01:25

The Power of Anaerobic Climbing

01:30

Introduction

2min

Contrasting Training Approaches in Bouldering and Route Climbing

18min

Intense Bouldering Training Regimen on Home Wall

3min

Contrasting Training Approaches in Climbing and Skin Maintenance Importance

4min

Comparing Training Approaches and Climbing Styles

3min

Intense Efforts and Static Strength in Bouldering Training

3min

In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.

You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym.

Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains!

Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels.

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Music by Misty Murphy

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