E73: Taylor McNeill - Tall enough to climb V16, living in a school bus and searching for projects
Nov 22, 2023
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Taylor McNeill, a super humble guy who is tall enough to climb V16, talks about living in a school bus, climbing in North Carolina, challenges faced by different height climbers, and exploring new boulders in Finland.
Living in a school bus provided Taylor McNeil with an affordable and unique living situation, allowing him to focus on climbing.
Taylor McNeil's conquest of the Moonlight Sonata boulder in Joe's Valley required nearly 50 sessions spread over three and a half years, showcasing his persistence and determination.
Taylor McNeil emphasizes the significance of the line and style of a climb, finding inspiration in beautiful lines that suit his climbing style.
The podcast episode discusses the importance of mental preparation and readiness required to take on a challenging climb.
Deep dives
Taylor McNeil: A Strong and Humble Climber
Taylor McNeil is a super strong climber from the southeast of America. He is known for his tall stature and his ability to excel in rock climbing. Taylor has climbed up to HC+ difficulty and has also done numerous first ascents. Despite his impressive climbing achievements, Taylor remains humble and down-to-earth. He doesn't pretend to be able to climb all styles and is accepting of his own limitations. The podcast episode also touches on the phenomenon of people detracting from others' accomplishments and efforts. Overall, the episode explores the climbing career of Taylor McNeil and delves into the psychology and community aspects of the sport.
Living in a School Bus: Taylor's Unconventional Home
Taylor McNeil spent almost two years living in a school bus in Boone, North Carolina. The idea to live in a bus was sparked by a friend who had bought a bus and offered Taylor a place to stay. Living in the bus provided Taylor with an affordable and unique living situation, allowing him to focus on climbing. The bus was equipped with essential amenities such as running water and electricity. Although Taylor cherished his time in the bus, he now prefers having his own space and privacy. However, he is grateful for the experiences and memories he gained during his time living in the bus.
Finding and Conquering the Moonlight Sonata Boulder
One of Taylor McNeil's notable climbing achievements is his conquest of the Moonlight Sonata boulder in Joe's Valley, Utah. The boulder features a challenging line with wide compression moves, small holds, and difficult footwork. It took Taylor nearly 50 sessions spread over three and a half years to complete the boulder problem. Despite feeling close to success multiple times throughout the journey, Taylor had to push through mental and physical challenges to finally conquer the boulder. The complexity of the transitions between the moves and the nuanced body tension required made it a particularly difficult climb. Taylor's persistence and determination ultimately led to his success on the Moonlight Sonata boulder.
The Importance of Line and Style in Climbing
Throughout his climbing career, Taylor McNeil emphasizes the significance of the line and style of a climb. He finds inspiration in finding beautiful lines that are appealing to him and suit his climbing style. Taylor enjoys climbing compression boulders and struggles with crimp-style climbs. He appreciates the puzzle-solving aspect and the learning process that comes with climbing on different styles of rock. Additionally, Taylor highlights the subjective nature of climbing grades, noting that while downgrading or upgrading a climb may affect one's ego, it doesn't change the essence of the climb. Overall, Taylor values the line and style of climbs as they contribute to the unique and personal experience of each climber.
The importance of committing to a training program
The podcast episode discusses the speaker's experience with committing to a training program. They emphasize the importance of accepting the need for consistent training and letting go of delusions about being close to their goal.
The role of a filmmaker in the training process
The speaker mentions a filmmaker who documented their climbing sessions. The filmmaker's presence added extra pressure, as they needed to capture footage of the speaker's progress. The speaker reflects on the motivation and pressure that came with being constantly filmed.
The significance of organic inspiration and personal interest
The discussion touches on the importance of finding organic inspiration and being genuinely interested in a project or boulder. The speaker and the host highlight the need for climbers to choose projects that genuinely inspire them, as it affects their level of motivation and commitment to the climb.
The nuances of being mentally prepared for a challenging climb
The podcast episode delves into the mental preparation and readiness required to take on a challenging climb. The speaker shares their personal experience of feeling unprepared and mentally comfortable in previous attempts. They discuss the need to align mental state and readiness with the physical challenges of a climb.
Taylor joined us this week for a typically wide ranging conversation. We joke a bit about Taylor being 'tall not strong' but it's all in an ironic way, he's clearly a beast! Lots of stuff on the agenda, first ascenting, climbing in the south east, living in a school bus in a commune, all standard fare. Taylor is a super humble guy and it was great to get a chance to chat to him, hope you enjoy!
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