Fat Mascara

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian on Art, Commerce, and Dupe Culture

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Mar 17, 2025
Francis Kurkdjian, a master perfumer known for iconic scents like Baccarat Rouge 540, dives into the intriguing world of fragrance. He shares his unexpected journey into perfumery and the delicate dance between artistry and commerce. The discussion touches on the rise of dupe culture and its impact on the industry. Kurkdjian reveals the emotional connections tied to scents and the importance of storytelling in perfumery. Plus, he reflects on both triumphs and failures throughout his career, offering a candid look at the fragrance landscape.
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ANECDOTE

Early Inspiration

  • At 14, Francis Kurkdjian knew he wanted to be a perfumer after reading a magazine article, seeing the film Savage, and being inspired by his mother's perfumes.
  • He even met one of the perfumers featured in the magazine years later.
INSIGHT

Name's Importance

  • A perfume is more than just a scent; the name is equally crucial, similar to how a piece of art is defined by its title.
  • The name influences the perception and conversation around the fragrance.
ANECDOTE

Le Male's Creation

  • At 24, Kurkdjian created Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male, initially disliking the unconventional bottle design.
  • He thought it would be a disaster, contrasting with his conservative view of perfume linked to high fashion.
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