#26: Do Coffee Trees Talk? How Underground Fungi Affect Coffee Quality
Oct 20, 2020
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Join Peter Wohlleben, renowned author of "The Hidden Life of Trees," as he shares fascinating insights into the complex relationships between trees and their ecosystems. Discover how coffee trees communicate through underground networks and the impact of non-native yeasts on flavor. Peter discusses the art of wine barrel crafting and its connection to oak trees, drawing parallels to coffee cultivation. Learn about the silent struggles of trees in agriculture and how human intervention can disrupt natural ecological balance.
The introduction of non-native yeast strains in coffee fermentation challenges the belief that flavor arises solely from terroir.
Underground fungal networks, known as the 'Wood Wide Web', allow plants to share resources and communicate distress signals effectively.
Contemporary breeding practices risk severing coffee plants from their microbial networks, increasing vulnerability to pests and necessitating a focus on ecosystem health.
Deep dives
Human Influence on Coffee Microbes
The research on yeast genetics shows that human activity significantly impacts the microbes that interact with coffee trees. It is revealed that the yeasts used in coffee fermentation are not native to the plants themselves but were introduced by human migration and agricultural practices. This challenges the traditional belief held by some in the specialty coffee industry that coffee's flavor primarily comes from its natural terroir, which includes soil and climate. Rather, the scientific evidence indicates that humans have been shaping not only the coffee plants but also the associated microbial community for centuries.
Understanding Terroir and Microbial Contributions
The concept of terroir in coffee cultivation is re-examined, highlighting that it is incorrectly perceived as reliant solely on environmental factors. Studies have indicated that the fermentation microbes play a crucial role in developing the beverage's sensory characteristics, which contradicts the notion that only the soil and climate matter. Even when coffee is transported from its native Ethiopia, humans inadvertently alter the microbiome responsible for fermentation. This insight underscores the complex interplay between human intervention and natural processes in coffee production.
Impacts of Plant Movement on Microbial Ecology
When coffee plants are moved from their native environments, there is significant disruption in the relationships between the plants and their microbial partners. This disruption can lead to what's termed 'ghost fermentation'—a phenomenon where the intended fermentation process is incomplete due to lack of essential microbes that had not established themselves yet in the new environment. Without these critical microbes, fermentation can be inconsistent and may take years for local communities to develop and stabilize. Understanding this helps to appreciate the long-term effects of transportation on coffee’s flavor and quality.
The Wood Wide Web: Forest Communication
Research indicates that trees and plants communicate effectively through underground networks known as the 'Wood Wide Web', primarily utilizing fungal connections. These networks allow trees to exchange vital nutrients and distress signals, demonstrating a community mindset rather than individual survival. When a disturbance occurs, healthy trees can share resources with weak or distressed neighbors, emphasizing the importance of interconnectedness in forest ecosystems. This social network approach fosters resilience in trees while highlighting a deeper understanding of plant relationships.
Consequences of Cultivation Practices
Contemporary agricultural practices, particularly selective breeding, have desensitized coffee plants to their natural environments, leading to vulnerability against pests and diseases. The emphasis on specific desirable traits has also inadvertently severed plants from their microbial networks, facilitating increased pest attacks. Rather than focusing solely on flavor profiles, a shift toward understanding and enhancing disease resistance is needed within the coffee industry. The future of sustainable coffee production may depend on re-establishing these connections and recognizing the essential roles microbes and the surrounding ecosystem play.
What is left behind when coffee moves to new locations. What is the trade off for innovation? This episode looks at what else we potentially leave behind when we introduce new plant material to non-native locations.
The inspiration for this episode was a beautiful book by Peter Wohlleben called The Hidden Life of Trees. In it, Peter talks about native forests vs planted forests and the differences we (humans) are able to perceive.
One of the example trees in Peter's book are oak trees. This was an interesting cross over for me because oak is very important for winemaking. Most of red wine is aged in oak barrels and many Chardonnay's too. This episode is filled with wine information on barrels, tastings and stories of my time in the wine industry.
I enjoyed putting this episode together and I hope you enjoy listening to it. If you would like to support the show and help me make more episodes, join the Patreoncommunity.