#21: Terroir—Part I: The Soil, The Science & The Human Element
Jun 30, 2020
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This podcast explores the concept of terroir in the coffee industry, discussing its relevance and potential pitfalls. It delves into the debate surrounding the definition of terroir and whether or not it should include the human element. The episode also examines the historical roots of terroir and its application in marketing. Additionally, it challenges the conventional belief about fruit ripening and discusses the conflict between Old World and New World labels in the wine industry. The discussion also explores the expanding definition of terroir beyond soil elements.
42:55
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Quick takeaways
Terroir, a concept predominantly associated with wine, is being increasingly used in the coffee industry, but it is a dangerous topic to adopt as it lacks a clear definition and scientific understanding, and can have detrimental effects on coffee farmers.
The history of terroir in the wine industry reminds us that scientific understanding evolves over time, and that terroir is not a strictly defined concept, highlighting the interplay between terroir and science is crucial for a nuanced and informed perspective in the coffee industry.
Deep dives
Terroir: A Dangerous Topic for Coffee to Adopt
Terroir, a concept predominantly associated with wine, is being increasingly used in the coffee industry. While it may seem appealing to apply this concept to coffee and promote the uniqueness of different growing regions, it is a dangerous topic to adopt. Terroir is a vague and ambiguous term that lacks a clear definition even within the wine industry. There is ongoing debate about whether terroir should only consider environmental factors like soil and climate, or also include human elements such as farming practices and vineyard management. Furthermore, recent research indicates that fruit development and flavor synthesis primarily occur within the berry itself, challenging the notion that terroir is solely determined by the soil. Despite its unclear definition and scientific shortcomings, terroir continues to be used as a marketing tool and can have detrimental effects on coffee farmers. Understanding the history and limitations of terroir is essential to critically evaluate its significance and avoid superficial and misleading interpretations in the coffee industry.
The Evolution of Terroir in Wine and its Interplay with Science
Terroir, a concept deeply rooted in the wine industry, has a long and complex history. It originated in ancient Egypt and Greece, where the link between vineyard source and wine quality was recognized. Early theories proposed that plants ate soil, transmuting its properties into fruit. However, scientific advancements challenged these beliefs, highlighting the roles of water absorption, air, and sunlight in fruit development. Today, evidence suggests that berry colors and flavors are synthesized within the berry itself, rather than being derived from the soil or leaves. This indicates that soil alone does not determine fruit quality. Additionally, recent studies demonstrate that the variety of the plant plays a significant role as well. The history of terroir in the wine industry reminds us that scientific understanding evolves over time, and that terroir is not a strictly defined concept. Acknowledging the interplay between terroir and science is crucial for a nuanced and informed perspective.
Terroir: A Reflection on Transparency and Marketing
Terroir, often associated with a sense of place and environmental factors, is both a scientific and marketing concept. While the idea of expressing the characteristics of a specific location through agricultural products seems appealing, the expanding and ambiguous nature of terroir raises questions about its usefulness. The specialty coffee industry, being relatively young, should approach the concept with caution. The definition of terroir can include not only soil and climate, but also the variety of the plant, the human elements, and the microbial cultures involved. However, such expansion can lead to infinite and subjective interpretations, reducing the practicality and scientific validity of the concept. While terroir may find its place in marketing narratives, separating it from scientific ties is necessary to prevent confusion and misleading assumptions. The complexity and potential drawbacks of terroir should serve as a reminder to critically evaluate its implications and consider the economic and marketing components involved.
The Dark Side of Terroir and its Impact on Coffee Farmers
Terroir, often romanticized as an expression of a specific place, can have detrimental effects on coffee farmers. While promoting the uniqueness and value of coffee-growing regions seems positive, terroir can be used as a weapon that harms the very people it claims to champion. The concept creates an illusion of superiority and exclusivity, resulting in unfair pricing and exploitation of farmers. Additionally, terroir's lack of clear definition and ambiguity can lead to superficial and misleading narratives, further undermining the interests of coffee producers. Understanding the economic and marketing aspects of terroir is crucial to ensure fair and equitable practices throughout the coffee supply chain. It is essential to challenge and question the assumptions and implications of terroir, cautiously examining its impact on different stakeholders and working towards transparency and justice in the industry.
I'm so excited for you to join me in this discussion about terroir. Terroir comes from latin, for terra - soil. Also translated as land, or “taste of the land”.
Terroir is predominantly a wine concept, so why are we even talking about it in reference to coffee?
If you’ve listened to other episodes, you’ll know that there are certain concepts that the coffee industry likes to borrow from the wine industry. We’ve talked about some of the really bad ones, like using wine or beer tanks to ferment coffee or how a Q grader is not like a sommelier.
From the outside we see the concept used in wine to justify the high prices of a French wine, perhaps we associate it with valuing the land, a sense of place. We know it’s connected to soil, so maybe we assume that terroir also has to do with soil health.
This makes terroir seem like it would be a positive concept to adopt.
I see how tempting it is to think that coffee could benefit from adopting this way of speaking about coffee farms and how it can help sell the coffee beverages at higher prices. Also, it sounds so romantic, and the specialty coffee industry loves romance.
But similar to my argument about “anaerobic fermentation”, terroir faces a similar problem- the word is vaguely understood at best, and then repeated and made familiar by sheer repetition, not by true understanding.
Many of us have a hard time defining this word if we are asked.
I have made this episode to give you a background into the origins of the word so that before we dive head first into regular use in the coffee industry, we have a better understanding of what it means.
While most student of winemaking take terroir for granted, as a given, I was lucky that one of my UC Davis professors challenged the idea. The historical origins are from the book Terroir and Other Myths of Winegrowing by Mark A Matthews. I highly recommend this book for those wanting to go deeper after today's episode.
To pick future podcast topics, get access to the scientific papers, ask questions that I answer on the podcast and help me continue making episodes: consider supporting the show by Joining Patreon Here
Thanks to Patron Brodie for casting the deciding vote!
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