E76: Shauna Coxsey - In conversation with a two time bouldering champion
Dec 13, 2023
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Shauna Coxsey, a two-time bouldering champion, joins the podcast to discuss topics such as her competition days, injuries, working with the IFSC, climbing post motherhood, family support, making climbing relatable, commentating in climbing competitions, reflecting on her climbing journey, the impact of the Olympics on athletes' relationships, controversy in the IFSC, physiotherapy and recovery, challenges and changes as parents climbing outside, and the challenges of managing their own diary.
The Olympics have both positive and negative impacts on the climbing world, including intense competition, changing dynamics within teams, and psychological challenges.
As climbing becomes more mainstream, there might be a decrease in personal touch and mentorship, highlighting the importance of finding new ways to support and welcome new participants in the sport.
Preparing for the Olympics is intense and can lead to psychological turmoil, with pressure to succeed, injuries, and the postponement of the event due to COVID-19 creating additional challenges.
Being part of the IFSC as the president of the Athlete Commission allows for athlete involvement in shaping policies and advocating for positive changes, but there is room for improvement in logistics and ensuring athlete representation in relevant discussions.
Balancing climbing and parenthood is challenging, even after retiring from competitions, and navigating training and climbing with the responsibilities of parenthood can be difficult.
Deep dives
The Impact of the Olympics on Climbing
The Olympics have had a significant impact on the climbing world, both positively and negatively. The qualification process and limited spots create intense competition among athletes, sometimes affecting friendships and relationships. The Olympics also bring exposure and opportunities for athletes, changing the landscape of their careers. The pressure and expectations linked to the Olympics can lead to post-Olympic blues and psychological challenges. The changing dynamics within teams and countries highlight the complex nature of Olympic qualification and its impact on individual athletes.
Support and Relationships in Competitive Climbing
The competitive climbing scene has been shaped by the support and relationships between athletes. Examples include Anna Stoehr welcoming and mentoring younger climbers, and the camaraderie among top competitors during a time when the finals were less predictable. However, as climbing grows and becomes more mainstream, there might be a diminishing personal touch and mentorship between experienced athletes and beginners. It's essential to find new ways to support and welcome new participants in the sport.
The Intensity of Olympic Preparation and the Turmoil Experienced
Preparing for the Olympics is intense and can cause psychological turmoil. The pressure to succeed, injuries, and the ever-changing landscape of the sport can take a toll on athletes. The postponement of the Olympics due to COVID-19 created additional challenges, including wedding cancellations and uncertainty. Post-Olympics, athletes might experience a dip or a sense of emptiness, despite their achievements. The transformative nature of the Olympics and the impact on athletes' lives and careers cannot be underestimated.
The Role of Athletes in the International Federation of Sport Climbing
Being part of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) as the president of the Athlete Commission allows for athlete involvement in shaping policies. Athletes have a voice in decision-making processes and represent their interests in discussions. The athlete commission works closely with the IFSC to bring athlete perspectives and advocate for positive changes. However, there is still room for improvement in terms of logistics and ensuring athlete representation in all relevant discussions.
Balancing Climbing and Parenthood
The speaker discusses the challenges of balancing climbing and parenthood. Despite having more time after retiring from competitions, finding time for climbing is still a struggle. The speaker acknowledges the misconception that retiring from comps means retiring as an athlete, highlighting the difficulty in communicating this to people. Climbing is still a passion, but navigating training and climbing with the responsibilities of parenthood can be challenging. Despite these obstacles, the speaker feels ready to take on new climbing projects and is excited to put energy into something challenging.
Achieving Dreams and Transitioning
The speaker reflects on walking away from competition climbing after achieving their dream of participating in the Olympics. The transition was made easier because the speaker was pushing towards their dream of having a baby and focusing on rock climbing. The speaker discusses the importance of self-awareness and understanding one's own values as an athlete. They emphasize the difference between motivation and commitment in achieving difficult goals. The speaker also expresses gratitude for the career they had and their excitement to pursue new climbing goals.
Communication and Athlete Health
The speaker addresses the topics of communication within the climbing community and athlete health concerns. They highlight the importance of effective communication within the IFSC and medical commission regarding body composition and athlete well-being. The speaker advocates for a focus on health and well-being in climbing, rather than simply scrutinizing athletes' appearances. They express confidence that work is being done to address these issues and hope for improved communication and understanding within the community.
Postpartum Recovery and Physical Strength
The podcast episode discusses the speaker's experience with postpartum recovery and how it impacted their physical strength. They highlight that it took around nine months to feel physically healed after giving birth, but their finger strength and overall body connection improved over time. The speaker also shares their newfound approach to rock climbing, feeling less nervous and anxious, which allowed them to try new challenges and achieve climbs they didn't think they were capable of.
Navigating Injuries and Dealing with Online Criticism
Another topic covered in the podcast is the speaker's perspective on injuries and the impact on their climbing journey. They discuss past injuries, including knee surgeries and a back injury, emphasizing the importance of perseverance and seeing injury as an opportunity to focus on other aspects of climbing. The speaker also addresses the online criticism they faced during their pregnancy and postpartum climbing, sharing their commitment to sharing their experience without telling others what they should or shouldn't do. They also touch upon the need for kindness and understanding in online interactions.
A big guest for us this week, Shauna Coxsey joins us for a chat. We cover a lot of ground from her competition days, her injuries, working with the IFSC and climbing post motherhood. Give it a listen, there's a lot in there!
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