Explore the controversial history of margarine production in the United States, including the influence of the dairy lobby. Learn about the battle to legalize colored margarine in Wisconsin and the current debate over labeling plant-based milks. Discover the innovative French chemist who introduced oleomargarine as a butter substitute.
The creation of margarine by a chemist for Napoleon III's contest led to a bread-efficient butter substitute.
Dairy lobby opposition to margarine resulted in strict laws, including bans on colored margarine in Wisconsin.
Deep dives
Creation of Margarine as a Butter Substitute
A 49-year-old French chemist, prior winner of a drug prize, created margarine to win Napoleon III's contest aiming to find a butter substitute. His technique efficiently produced more bread. Margarine's components included water and beef fat, named oleomargarine, providing an affordable and non-refrigeration-needed alternative to butter.
Margarine Industry Struggle in the United States
The introduction of margarine in the 1870s led to dairy producers lobbying against it due to potential profit loss. In 1886, the Oleo Margarine Act taxed and regulated margarine sales, causing a backlash. The dairy lobby's influence enforced restrictions, including bans on colored margarine in various states.
Legislation and Culture Clash over Margarine Consumption
The battle between the dairy lobby and margarine supporters extended into the mid-20th century in Wisconsin. The state upheld strict laws against margarine, including color regulations. Smuggling became a means to access yellow margarine, leading to humorous and serious legal consequences. The ban on colored margarine in public establishments like jails and schools remains in Wisconsin today, reflecting ongoing debates surrounding plant-based milk products.
Sign up for Criminal Plus to get behind-the-scenes bonus episodes of Criminal, ad-free listening of all of our shows, members-only merch, and more. Learn more and sign up here.